The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Idle problems....again

Gmoney1983

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Messages
91
Location
SLC, UT
Hello all. Well I thought I had my idle problems all sorted, but I guess not. When I first purchased the car I had some idle surge issues. Glad to say I got that all fixed up. Went through and fixed a few leaky couplers and replaced the isc. Also replaced the ecu, as the stock one was on its way out.

So here's my current issue. I have a high idle. But only after driving for a bit. When I first start the car, the idle will go up to about 2000 rpm and then settle back to about 8 or 900. As soon as I back out of my spot and get to the first stop sign, I'll push in the clutch and the rpm will shoot up to 2000 again. Doesn't matter if the car is warm or cold. It will stay at about 2000 unless I pop the throttle. Then it settles back down.

Here's what I've done so far. Most of this was done to fix my surging issues, it does not surge anymore, just shoots up and stays. So I did the free fiav block, just screwing it in so I have no fast idle adjustment. I removed and cleaned the throttle body and replaced the gaskets. I adjusted the throttle stop switch to factory specs(or at least I think I got it right). And adjusted the throttle cable. My current thoughts are that I either tightened the cable too much or that it may possibly have a kink in it. I just find it a little odd that it will sit and idle all day just fine til I start moving. And if I pop the throttle it goes back to where it should be.

I'm going to try and readjust the cable tomorrow and also try and lube it up, if maybe it is just sticking. Just curious if anybody has any other ideas they could throw my way.
 

James

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
1,322
Location
Port richey Florida
Check the throttle plate itself? Maybe its getting hung up on something or its just dirty and gunned up
 

mitsuturbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,551
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
If the cable is taut when everything is cold, it may be pulling the throttle plate open when everything is warm.

Because, thermal expansion.


I know it sounds crazy, but i've seen it on numerous occasions on 4g63s.
 

Gmoney1983

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Messages
91
Location
SLC, UT
Thanks guys. The throttle body has already been removed and I cleaned the crap out of it. Shines like new. Mitsuturbo, really hoping that's all it is. Def on my list of things to do first tomorrow morning. Thinking I'm gonna let the car warm up and then readjust. Man I really hope it's that simple.
 

James

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
1,322
Location
Port richey Florida
Are you sure the plate was reinstalled correctly? Only need to be off a smidge to get hung up
 

Gmoney1983

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Messages
91
Location
SLC, UT
I never removed the throttle plate, I just cleaned around. I really hope its not that. But knowing some of the half assed work the previous owner did I wouldn't doubt it could be off. Anyway to check without removing and reinstalling. I really hope I don't have to go that far into it, just moved into a new apartment and they really frown on working on cars here. When I had the tb off I could open it and let it slam shut and it wouldn't stick.
 

Vr4junkie

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2011
Messages
596
Location
Some wack town in CA
I was have an idle problem also but on another car ended up being the CAS and IACV I ended up cleaning the IACV with some electrical cleaner and I noticed my Idle smoothed out before i had to have it at 1300rpm so it wouldn’t stall out now its at 900rmp now i just need to replace the CAS.
 

James

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
1,322
Location
Port richey Florida
The plate has lines on it that should be lined up with te shaft. You might be able to see it without taking it off.

I didn't read tr while thread... Are the shaft seals leaking in the TB?
 

Gmoney1983

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Messages
91
Location
SLC, UT
Thanks James. I don't think I'll be able to see it then without tb removal, it's got the 2g elbow on there. Got a whole lot of nothing done to it today, just too windy to go work on it.
 

Gmoney1983

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Messages
91
Location
SLC, UT
I don't think the shaft seals are leaking. At least they weren't the last time I checked em. Don't have a tester out here though. Had to leave most of my tools back in Denver when I moved out to salt lake.
 

Gmoney1983

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Messages
91
Location
SLC, UT
Got a little work done on her yesterday. I loosened the throttle cable a little and lubed it up with some liquid wrench. Seemed to help out. Think i may need to do another boost leak test and possibly rebuild the tb, but she's idling good enough for now.
 

James

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
1,322
Location
Port richey Florida
Rebuilding the TB is always a good thing to do with cars as old as ours.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned
Top