Idle hunting

[NickDromez]

so basically my car hunts for an idle. i turn my car on and idles ok, 1 minute of warming up passes and it hunts. goes to 1500rpm then down to 500rpm. 1 minute of this passes and it stops. idk what it is, i think maybe it could be the IAC or my MAF. I would rather not do an FIAV or EGR delete to get to work. any help would be appreciated. thanks

 

[Diego]

That is what they call the " hall effect" click

Switch from the Green top CAS to a Black top and call it a day.

 

[MitsuDriver274]

Adjust your idle properly, that includes grounding the timing terminal and then adjusting the idle airscrew until the car idles around 950 rpm, I believe you do it with the lights and a/c on. Most of the time I come across cars that hunt for idle have a bad iac motor or the idle air screw has been adjusted without grounding out the timing terminal.

I'm sure this had been covered, search before posting a new thread!

 

[Andy_S]

Quoting Diego:
That is what they call the " hall effect" click

Switch from the Green top CAS to a Black top and call it a day.




I'm not sure I understand your suggestion. I feel his problem is unrelated to if the cas is optical or hall effect.

 

[Alainb7]

The best way to adjust your idle is first to adjust the Biss srew to have the ISCPosition value logged in DSMLink/ECMLink hovers around 30 at normal warm-engine idle in neutral.

But you have to be shure that your ISC is working properly. (Check resistance of the 3 coil) and be shure you dont have any leak.

Most of the time idle problem result as a efective ISC.

 

[Xcelerate]

First lets find out what set up you have first? If your injectors are not calibrated properly then no matter what you do you will always fight the ecu from controlling your idle. Aftermarket cams will screw up your idle as well. You wanna make this simple? Bypassed your IAC with a block off and adjust your idle manually till it settle. The only problem is cold start but once it warm up your idle will be stable. And don't mess with the biss screw, close it all the way down and just adjust it by the Idle control sensor or whatever you call that one wire sensor that stops your throttle plate

 

[NickDromez]

engine and ecu are all stock except for a hallman boost controller. so i guess ill try to mess with the IAC. and im pretty sure its not a CAS problem as its stock and ive never heard of a CAS effecting idle hunt

 

[NickDromez]

Quoting MitsuDriver274:
Adjust your idle properly, that includes grounding the timing terminal and then adjusting the idle airscrew until the car idles around 950 rpm, I believe you do it with the lights and a/c on. Most of the time I come across cars that hunt for idle have a bad iac motor or the idle air screw has been adjusted without grounding out the timing terminal.

I'm sure this had been covered, search before posting a new thread!



where is the idle air screw and how do i ground the timing terminal?

 

[1uGlyGalaNt]

The idle screw is on top of the throttle body. It's underneath a black plug, if you still have the plug installed. RTFM or google for the timing terminal. You check for vacuum leaks yet?

 

[tayschells13]

You can ground it by checking a box on dsmlink or else here's a somewhat decent article I found on which plug you need to find to ground your timing.

Click

This might help you out, if not then oh well.. I tried lol

 

[tayschells13]

But make sure all your boost leaks are fixed, tps is adjusted correctly, and let the car warm up to operating temperature before you set it

 

[NickDromez]

turned out to be my knock sensor, TPS, and idle screw. problem resolved