tacolibre
Active member
So, here is the full story for my car to help aid suggestions/ comments. car originally bought and irresponsibly driven for approx. 1500 miles with ps leak and oil leak...water pump dies car gets parked 7/2013. during the 1 month-ish of driving i started compiling a large list of things that are wrong thanks to 2 local members jon barnes and kris wildman. car is a 91 gvr4. I will upload images when I figure out how but the problems and respective suggestions are as follows:
fix sticking rear calipers(used units purchased, unk. functionality)
buy and install jnz driveline kit (purchased not installed)
install large o-ring in oil cooler?(not sure what this fix is but i have the fixer o-ring)
car has high idle issue - check caps or what have you ( caps were bad, possibly other things were bad, DSM link v3 purchased with new socketed ECU)
some sort of pressure sender was about to fall off of oil cooler completely, sensor tightened (should i reinstall with locktite during rebuild?)
alternator bolt fell out (rando replacement installed, new or used oem replacement needed)
grinding transmission, possibly due to a double floor mat causing incomplete clutch disengagement or improper step height on flywheel from "new" clutch - TS&R(troubleshoot and repair) - craigslist trans purchased (hope its good), used Fidanza flywheel and new friction disk purchased. New Luk clutch purchased.
front alignment issue, ball joints suspected (Raybestos units purchased)
power steering leak - found to be hard line part of front rack - rebuild kit purchased and used known good rack(thx jbarnes) picked up, not installed
oil on top of valve cover - don't know where it is coming from - new oil cap purchased still oil appearing, used valve cover purchased but not installed
oil pan crushed to sh*t - new unit purchased along with Toyota FIPK
Broken & missing wheel stud (new unit purchased but not installed)
Now that being said I recently pulled the engine to start on the ps leak/clutch/oil pan. When I pulled the pan I found large amounts of a soft non magnetic material in my oil pain which i am assuming is babbit. main and rod bearings are not all but partially bad so long story short i am rebuilding the engine. And this is where I need some help/ some suggestions, mainly with machining and parts.
Machining: I had a machinist of 20+ years look at my engine internals and block and he said to have the crank reground and polished, get new main and rod bearings, have rod big end checked for roundness check and replace balance shaft bearings, check balance shafts for damage, repair as needed and small scoring in block means go cheap and give it a good hone or go expensive and bore the block (whichever i feel is necessary), and finally replace the oil pump as it appears as though oil starvation has been a big problem in the past. Considering the balance shafts aren't out of the block yet, and the cylinder head hasn't been disassembled, what other machining and or professional cleaning should i have done? what can i get for cheap as possible since i am in college from rock auto or whoever?
The end goal is to have a daily driver that i can autocross and rally around a little bit with ~300hp to the ground.
Here is what I have so far on my list for the engine:
new oil pressure sending unit (broke as hell)
new pcv and vacuum lines
full gasket kit – I was going to buy the cheapest one from rock auto but not use the head gasket
headgasket - looking for recommendations based on previous stated power goal
ARP headstuds – not the L19 units but whatever the other ones are
3g lifters - need help finding these as i guess engnbldr's supplier of the good ones is out of the picture
main/rod bearings - need suggestions on brand
new hydraulic timing belt tensioner
new complete timing set - probably going with a gates set
new oil pump - can i go reman here? or oem is the only way. do i need a new case with new gears or just new gears? based on machinist recommendation i will replace but i also have a chunk broken out of my case.
piston rings - need recommendations
new oil squirter crush washers
new balance shaft bearings as needed - probably only oem part i am guessing
and after this is all put together what should i be doing for break in oil? i was going to go with shell rotella + lucas assembly oil on cams and other spinny bits. keep in mind this is my first engine rebuild, and i have the FSM.
I hope you all like books... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
fix sticking rear calipers(used units purchased, unk. functionality)
buy and install jnz driveline kit (purchased not installed)
install large o-ring in oil cooler?(not sure what this fix is but i have the fixer o-ring)
car has high idle issue - check caps or what have you ( caps were bad, possibly other things were bad, DSM link v3 purchased with new socketed ECU)
some sort of pressure sender was about to fall off of oil cooler completely, sensor tightened (should i reinstall with locktite during rebuild?)
alternator bolt fell out (rando replacement installed, new or used oem replacement needed)
grinding transmission, possibly due to a double floor mat causing incomplete clutch disengagement or improper step height on flywheel from "new" clutch - TS&R(troubleshoot and repair) - craigslist trans purchased (hope its good), used Fidanza flywheel and new friction disk purchased. New Luk clutch purchased.
front alignment issue, ball joints suspected (Raybestos units purchased)
power steering leak - found to be hard line part of front rack - rebuild kit purchased and used known good rack(thx jbarnes) picked up, not installed
oil on top of valve cover - don't know where it is coming from - new oil cap purchased still oil appearing, used valve cover purchased but not installed
oil pan crushed to sh*t - new unit purchased along with Toyota FIPK
Broken & missing wheel stud (new unit purchased but not installed)
Now that being said I recently pulled the engine to start on the ps leak/clutch/oil pan. When I pulled the pan I found large amounts of a soft non magnetic material in my oil pain which i am assuming is babbit. main and rod bearings are not all but partially bad so long story short i am rebuilding the engine. And this is where I need some help/ some suggestions, mainly with machining and parts.
Machining: I had a machinist of 20+ years look at my engine internals and block and he said to have the crank reground and polished, get new main and rod bearings, have rod big end checked for roundness check and replace balance shaft bearings, check balance shafts for damage, repair as needed and small scoring in block means go cheap and give it a good hone or go expensive and bore the block (whichever i feel is necessary), and finally replace the oil pump as it appears as though oil starvation has been a big problem in the past. Considering the balance shafts aren't out of the block yet, and the cylinder head hasn't been disassembled, what other machining and or professional cleaning should i have done? what can i get for cheap as possible since i am in college from rock auto or whoever?
The end goal is to have a daily driver that i can autocross and rally around a little bit with ~300hp to the ground.
Here is what I have so far on my list for the engine:
new oil pressure sending unit (broke as hell)
new pcv and vacuum lines
full gasket kit – I was going to buy the cheapest one from rock auto but not use the head gasket
headgasket - looking for recommendations based on previous stated power goal
ARP headstuds – not the L19 units but whatever the other ones are
3g lifters - need help finding these as i guess engnbldr's supplier of the good ones is out of the picture
main/rod bearings - need suggestions on brand
new hydraulic timing belt tensioner
new complete timing set - probably going with a gates set
new oil pump - can i go reman here? or oem is the only way. do i need a new case with new gears or just new gears? based on machinist recommendation i will replace but i also have a chunk broken out of my case.
piston rings - need recommendations
new oil squirter crush washers
new balance shaft bearings as needed - probably only oem part i am guessing
and after this is all put together what should i be doing for break in oil? i was going to go with shell rotella + lucas assembly oil on cams and other spinny bits. keep in mind this is my first engine rebuild, and i have the FSM.
I hope you all like books... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />