Honda half core

[Diego]

I have a Honda Mishimoto 3" half core and I was wondering what the people here that have them are using for a thermo sensor on the bottom. The stoc thermo sensor doesn't fit, and I went to the yar today to see if I could source one but all the Hondas I found don't have one on the radiator.

So what are you guys using? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif I would like to figure this out so I can put some fluids in and drive.

Diego

 

[turbowop]

If you have ECMlink you can lose that sensor and use ECMlink to trip the fan relay at whatever temp you want. Or use one of the aftermarket sensors that slip into the radiator fins. Worst case, and easiest, but not really optimal (IMO): loop the wires on the sensor harness so the fan runs constantly.

 

[Diego]

I have V3L. Could I just put one of those plastic plugs and "cap" off the sensor hole? I will be using only a pusher on this setup....

Thoughts on that Mark?

Diego

 

[transparentdsm]

what are your elevation changes going to be? i just put one in my car and once i hit the 7000 foot mark i would start to overheat. i had mine in the spot where the A/C was. when driving around town it would stay at the right temp range, but once i started to climb it was all over.

 

[Diego]

I'm in Sioux City IA. Elevation is about 50ft above sea level.....

I plan to take it back to CO but I will probably stay at a nice range until I can figure it out further.

Basically I'm stumped on what "I SHOULD" do to get it to DD for now. I feel odd not having that sensor. Yes I know it's only for overheating purposes, but I want to be safe.

Diego

 

[turbowop]

Quoting Diego:
I have V3L. Could I just put one of those plastic plugs and "cap" off the sensor hole? I will be using only a pusher on this setup....

Thoughts on that Mark?

Diego



Lite doesn't allow programmable output controls unfortunately, so that won't work for you unless you upgrade to full.

Also, you might wanna use a puller, as they're more efficient.

 

[prove_it]

If you only need a temp fix to get it going, I would just run some wires and have a cabin controlled flip switch. Keep an eye on temps and trigger it yourself.

Obviously not a long term solution, but will get you going.

 

[transparentdsm]

put the sensor in the thermostat housing where the a/c one was. it will work.

 

[prove_it]

That will make the fan run constantly. The sensor switches at a lower temp than what the sensors at the housing do.

 

[turbowop]

Yup, the sensor is made to sit in the bottom of the radiator, hence lower temps around 175ish or 180. I don't remember exactly. But that will cause the fan to kick on waaaay too early. May as well loop the wires at that point so the fan runs with the key on.

 

[WaRrIoRs16]

Quoting turbowop:
If you have ECMlink you can lose that sensor and use ECMlink to trip the fan relay at whatever temp you want. Or use one of the aftermarket sensors that slip into the radiator fins. Worst case, and easiest, but not really optimal (IMO): loop the wires on the sensor harness so the fan runs constantly.



Is this a specific option in 1g Link?

 

[Diego]

Quoting prove_it:
If you only need a temp fix to get it going, I would just run some wires and have a cabin controlled flip switch. Keep an eye on temps and trigger it yourself.

Obviously not a long term solution, but will get you going.




My temp gauge on the dash fluctuates all over.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

 

[turbowop]

Quoting WaRrIoRs16:
Quoting turbowop:
If you have ECMlink you can lose that sensor and use ECMlink to trip the fan relay at whatever temp you want. Or use one of the aftermarket sensors that slip into the radiator fins. Worst case, and easiest, but not really optimal (IMO): loop the wires on the sensor harness so the fan runs constantly.



Is this a specific option in 1g Link?



Yes. On 2g's the fans can be controlled by ECMlink natively. On gvr4's and 1g's, you have to use one of the output controls via ECMlink. It's a fairly new thing that was added last winter by ECMtuning. Actually, it was always there, but they added the coolant temperature parameter to the existing output controls.

 

[transparentdsm]

Quoting prove_it:
That will make the fan run constantly. The sensor switches at a lower temp than what the sensors at the housing do.



when i took the sensor out of the bottom of the rad and placed it in the thermostat housing above thermostat my fans kicked on at 203 every time. i dont know, maybe i had something wrong, but it kicked them on at 203 and back off at 200.

 

[prove_it]

Thats odd cause IIRC that sensor is activated somewhere around 180.

 

[transparentdsm]

well 203 and 200 where the values link showed me. and with the sensor back in the bottom of the rad it does the same thing. kicks on at 200 and off at 203. i thought that was normal. these are the temps my car has always ran, before durning and after all my recent overheating issues.

 

[turbowop]

That makes no sense. The coolant is much cooler at the bottom of the radiator than it is at the thermostat housing. Having that sensor in the thermostat housing should completely change the point at which the fan kicks on.

 

[prove_it]

Sounds like a bad sensor to me.

 

[transparentdsm]

Quoting turbowop:
That makes no sense. The coolant is much cooler at the bottom of the radiator than it is at the thermostat housing. Having that sensor in the thermostat housing should completely change the point at which the fan kicks on.




wouldn't it be hotter at the bottom? doesn't the flow of coolant go from the water pump, through the water pipe, to the bottom of the rad, out the top of the rad, through the thermostat, then back into the block and finally at the water pump again?


the sensor isn't bad as i have it back in the bottom of my rad and it works just the same as before and its practically brand new, maybe 11,000 miles on it.

 

[slugsgomoo]

You're thinking backwards. It goes from the bottom of the radiator towards the water pump, and then returns to the radiator after the thermostat returning to the top.

My testing with the factory setup was that the fan turned on at a logged 203* at the water neck. Given that the stock sensor is supposed to turn on at 190 (IIRC) which seems to show that the factory radiator is definitely doing something. With ECMLink V3 full, a scirocco radiator and no coolant switch in the radiator, the fan turns on perfectly at 180* logged temp.