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help with rear brake pad install

vr4hotness

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Dec 2, 2010
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206
Location
Chino Hills, California
I'm super clueless on the rear brake pad install on my gvr4.

I took off the whole caliper and put on the new rotor and now I out back the caliper and I can't figure out how to put the pads in.

the e brake is all hooked up and stuff.

sorry I feel like a total noob, but the rear caliper only has one bolt and it only move up and not enough room to squeeze in the new pad.
 

Lancer99

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Aug 23, 2004
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1,284
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Somewhere over the rainbow
Did you compress the piston back in? It's not a one that you can compress with a c-clamp, there's a tool you need to use and you turn it to compress it.
 

vr4hotness

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Dec 2, 2010
Messages
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Location
Chino Hills, California
That's most likely the problem, I tried using a press tool but the piston won't go back, do you know what that took is called?

And the caliper does not come off correct, it just lift up when putting in the new pads
 

Lancer99

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Somewhere over the rainbow
Caliper should come off the bracket. There's two bolts that hold it on. Once those are off the caliper should slide right off. The tool is a speical tool, but I just picked up a unervisal tool at autozone for like 10 bucks maybe less.
 

Lancer99

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Yes that's the one I have. You just have to find the right combo.
 

vr4hotness

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The rear caliper has only 1 bolt on the bottom and the top is some rubber plug no head for a bolt
 
Last edited:

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
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4,201
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Sioux Falls, SD
Bottom is a bolt, top is a pin that is bolted to the bracket. It can be removed, but not needed. The tool listed is the same one I use professionally, and has lasted for 12yrs. Got mine at Sears, but most part stores will have one.

note: when turning in, go clockwise and make sure there is room in the master reservoir for fluid to return into. You'll need to turn the tool with a 3/8" ratchet and apply pressure to push the piston in while turning it. It might be really really hard to do, if so the caliper is sticking and should be replaced. If it's hard then gets easy to push in that's just the seal fighting you and it's fine. Check your new pads too, make sure they slide right into the bracket. If you have to force them, then you need to clean the bracket. Rust build-up can cause this and the pads will seize, drag, and wear really fast.
 
Last edited:

Lancer99

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Umm. I think that should be a bolt. I haven't done a rear brake in awhile. I have to take a look at mine again.
 

prove_it

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Sioux Falls, SD
You'll line up what ever bumps fit the piston, when you look at the piston you'll see the indents where the tool will catch. Then using the center square of the tool connect a 3/8" ratchet and off you go.

There is a bolt on the top of the caliper, but it's bolted to the bracket, you have to swing the caliper up and then slide the caliper off. After you remove the caliper completely you'll see the head of the bolt.

You can see it in this pic.
RearCalipers.jpg
 

prove_it

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Sioux Falls, SD
Hey we all fight the same demon in our garages. If we help each other, maybe we got a chance.
 

badams

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Jun 16, 2014
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123
Location
KC, MO
Quoting prove_it:

There is a bolt on the top of the caliper, but it's bolted to the bracket, you have to swing the caliper up and then slide the caliper off. After you remove the caliper completely you'll see the head of the bolt.




Weird, I just pulled off my calipers tonight... thought that bolt was a little weird that it slid right off instead of being removed. Thought I did it wrong but it was easy to slide off. I don't remember it being like that on the '91 DSM I had?
 

transparentdsm

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Jul 27, 2011
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3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
Did you remove the e-brake cable? That is the only thing that has ever made it difficult for me to remove the rear caliper from the guide pin.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Mar 5, 2001
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10,964
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Michigan
Good tip for when you do this job- loosen the park brake adjustment under the center console tray and it makes removing the cable much easier. Then readjust to proper tension to finish the rear brake job.
 

vr4hotness

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Dec 2, 2010
Messages
206
Location
Chino Hills, California
Pushed the piston all the way back, but looks like I need to remove the e-brake cable.
Man what a pain for just rear brakes
 

vr4hotness

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Dec 2, 2010
Messages
206
Location
Chino Hills, California
So I'm stuck.


How the hell do I remove the e brake cable?

Looks lime I need to remove it either way to get the pads inn.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
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As I suggested, loosen the cable adjustment, then you have to rotate the lever on the caliper with a tool while pulling the cable back and out of its groove. You may still have a clip there to hold the cable that was on the caliper originally, but some are long gone.
 
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