The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

help diagnosing engine (tearing down)

yeti

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
Im tearing down this engine i got from the junkyard and almost had to fight this one dude for it because he wanted it so bad saying he new the owner and telling me the block is trashed because the oil pump failed and the rod started to knock...

This engine looks fresh like it was running for a couple months, the inside of the block looks like its coated in something, could it be thermal coating?

Also i took of rod caps and bearings and the look shiny/spotless so i reinstalled them and im going to take off the main caps and check those bearing but im preety sure there going to be good...

My question is, should i try to fire her up or put it p for sale as a runnibng motor? it looks to be a good engine, my plan was to rebuild but it looks so damn good....
 

5OF2k

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
664
Location
colorado springs, colorado
Kind of useless without pics, honestly. Esp considering how you described the cylinders, honestly has me curious. Ive built many, many motors, and never used or heard of any sort of cylinder coating besides Honda's FRP cylinders. Post some pics.

In all honesty though, if its a good motor, throw it in and build your current setup. Either way, it never hurts to have a backup/spares. As it is, i have 2 at the shop now....
 

yeti

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
Not the inside of the cylinders, the inside of the block, I'll try to get some pics up.

I can't have anyone onspect this motor because I'm the farthest as engine building knowledge goes..
 

Street Surgeon

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 3, 2004
Messages
941
Location
Omaha, Nebraska
Could be coated with glyptal, some people either polish/grind out the inside of their blocks to remove stress risers and promote oil return to the sump, and some just coat it with glyptal, aaaaand some do both. On older hotrod's with porous blocks it can help seal them up and could also "encapsulate" any casting sand that might be waiting to play with the bearings.

Personally I wouldn't use the stuff though, I'd be scared that it would eventually chip off and end up being pulled into/through the screen of the oil pickup.
 
Last edited:

yeti

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
If all rod bearings, and main bearings are clean, cylinders look clean, Is here anything else to consider? How Would I check the oil pump?

Disassemble and check if the gears are straight cut and see if there grinding into the case?
 

5OF2k

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
664
Location
colorado springs, colorado
Thats one way to inspect it visually, but you can also refer to an engine manual for clearances of the gears to each other and the housings. Another way to do it would be by doing a running oil pressure test once its in the car.

That being said, with all of the bearings in good shape, it most likely has plenty of oil pressure. If the pump had failed, youd be able to tell by seeing scoring on the bearings and journals of the crankshaft.

Sounds like you should be just fine.
 

yeti

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
803
Location
san diego california
Only known thing wrong with this engine is the knock sensor is melted to sh*t, im hoping thats it.

Once i finish this build and put the fresh motor in my galant, il throw this motor in my GST to see if it runs..
 

5OF2k

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
664
Location
colorado springs, colorado
Melted? Thats typically not good...to say the least.

Have a straight edge so you can check the block for warpage? It wouldve had to have been extremely hot to melt the sensor. Is it the complete longblock, or just the shortblock? Any signs of fire damage?
 

brisvr4

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 13, 2004
Messages
955
Location
brisbane australia
What you will be seeing on the knock sensor is just the goo running out. Its completely normal and happens when they get old.

I would also get someone else to look at it if I was you.
Better that than to rely on the Internet for someone's possible incorrect diagnosis.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned
Top