The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Head stud torque.

Spyder

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2004
Messages
1,136
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
I installed ARP studs in my block. Their instructions said to do an initial torque of 90 ft-lbs.

Is it bad to just leave the head bolts at that and finish assembly? I have heard of people going to higher torque on the head bolts for high boost applications.
 

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
I wanna say I did 85ft-lbs with moly lube. I might be off 5ft-lbs or so since it's been ten years since I torqued them. I know they specify different values depending on what type of lube or oil you use.

I never went back and retorqued them, and they've been fine since. I did check them the next time I had the valve cover off (quite a while later) and they were still good.
 
Last edited:

Brianawd

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
2,117
Location
Portland OR,
I have always done mine to 100 with Molly lube. But I also only use l19s and not ARP's off the shelf sh*t.
 

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
When I did mine, all there was was ARP's off the shelf sh*t. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

It would probably be good to know which ARP's he's using.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Custom made L19's? Thats baller status. lol

I torqued my off the shelf standard ARPs in a sequence of three. 40ft-lbs, 60ftlbs then 90ft-lbs. I used the moly lube as directed. The moly is what makes the difference. Dry torque would be around 100+ftlbs torque. I know you can go more for higher boost, but they will stretch too much and won't be as likely to be reusable. I think up to 400whp (maybe higher) the standard torque is plenty. Gasket type and surface prep are more important.
 

Spyder

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2004
Messages
1,136
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
They were the 6 bolt kit I ordered from JnZ. Used the moly lube they sent and did three step torque to 90. Gonna leave it.

Thanks.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
It doesn't hurt to recheck them in 5k or so. I checked mine and only one was a tinsy bit off. Around 5 ft-lbs. Since then I've reused them once and the stretch was good. Not sure about a third time.
 

JamesFoster

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 14, 2008
Messages
583
Location
ALL
For standard ARP's, Use the ARP moly lube, and torque in sequence, first 30, then 60 then 90 and leave it. Re-torque to 90 if it'll make you sleep better at night but not really necessary.

If you have ARP L19's which are the same head studs I'm running, I did the 30-60-90 sequence, then did a final torque sequence at 105. Seems to be the general consensus with those.
 

EMX5636

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
1,631
Location
Bucks County, PA
I did the same as James but with the regular ARP's. (As Mark said, L19's weren't available yet). 3 steps, then a final 105 ft/lbs. Never had a problem in almost 20k miles.
 

Spyder

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2004
Messages
1,136
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
Thanks guys!

Now I just hope my Cometic MLS holds up as I have been hearing bad news recently about them.....
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
I think the general Idea is that with cometic is to not use any spray sealers. I know about 4 years ago I used a cometic gasket with copper spray on it and it failed with arp studs. (low power too).
 

Brianawd

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
2,117
Location
Portland OR,
Quote:
When I did mine, all there was was ARP's off the shelf sh*t.



I say off the shelf sh*t because if you go much over 85ft/lbs they stretch. Stock 6bolt head bolts will hold up to and over 400hp. So the upgrade from 6bolt to ARP 8740 studs is not much of a upgrade. Then add the fact that lots of people now are running e85 with more timming and boost. You end up with much higher cylinder pressures. The 8740 studs just can't hang and you end up with head gasket issues.
 

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
Yeah, but that was '03. We didn't really know any better or had a choice.

But I agree...at this point, you may as well get the better ARP's.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
I've seen standard ARP studs hold down 600WHP @ 40psi and last all season. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

L19s would have been better.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top