I have had some good luck with eBay valves, just be sure to check the guides to make sure they are not cracked, if so order a valve kit with the guides (save you some time when your machine shop tells you that you need them)
Just unbolt the oil feed line from the head, pull the coolant lines off at the rubbers. Don't forget to unbolt the oil drain tube from the bottom of the turbo (or oil pan).
To check your turbo's shaft play, just grab the shaft and see if it wiggles. A LITTLE up and down is normal, in and out not so much. Since you have the turbo out, pull the hot side off by removing the band clamp, 10mm I think. Be sure to inspect the hot side housing for any cracks that go all the way through, as well as the waste gate flapper. Some cracks are normal. Look at your turbine wheel and make sure that there are no broken fins and behind the wheel to make sure that the oil isn't so coked that it pushed the plate into the turbine wheel.
If your going to rebuild your turbo, be sure to mark the shaft and compressor wheel and shaft so when you put it back together it goes together the same.
When you go to clean the bearing cartridge you will more than likely be dealing with a lot of coking, just take your time with a flat tip and get as much as you can off.
As for bigger cams, 264's seem to be the smallest anyone offers. Since you have your head off, take the time to port match the intake and head, find a 2g exhaust manifold and port it out also (1g exhaust manifolds are very prone to cracking).
The water pump pulley is 4 10mm bolts, the harmonic balancer is 4 12mm? bolts. Don't worry about the big bolt with the 1/2 in square slot, the just holds the crank gear in. And the rest is just 10mm bolts holding the cover on.
Hope this helps