Factory Spec wheel alignment

[number3]

quote:Originally posted by number3:
I plan to corner weigh the car (the reason for the Teins). Do you think you could round up those numbers for me that Mike published?

I also can not seem to get the front of the car to come down. It seems to want to stay at 15 1/2" from hub to fender. Any ideas why?

Harry Well here are the figures...

LF

Camber -.03
caster 3.26
toe .07

RF

Camber -.33
caster 3.32
toe .06

FRONT

cross camber .29
cross caster -.07
total toe .13
wheel base difference .07
track width diff -.42
track width 60.5"
ride highth 13.64"

LR

camber -1.12
toe .42

RR

camber -.68
toe .42

REAR

Total toe .82
thrust angle .00
set back .14
axle offset .00
track width 59.7"
ride height 13.24"

 

[turbowop]

quote:Originally posted by number3:


I also can not seem to get the front of the car to come down. It seems to want to stay at 15 1/2" from hub to fender. Any ideas why?

Harry Sorry I didn't reply to this earlier. I didn't see this thread. It's the tall bumpstop that Tein uses in the front. I ran into the same problem. I trimmed half of it down. I'm not sure the reason for the big ass bumpstop but with it there it really limits travel when you lower the car substantially. With the shocks off the car I tested to make sure the shaft could go all the way into the body without the bumpstop and sure enough it did so I don't think that trimming the bumpstops will hurt the shocks.

 

[markrieb]

Harry,

I'd like to see the right and left sides more balanced, i.e., you should have nearly the same camber on the right as the left, both front and rear.

I'd also like to see a little less toe in the rear.

Where did your corner weights end up?

Mark

 

[number3]

https://www.galantvr4.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=002501

 

Those corner weights are close enough to ideal that I wouldn't mess with them.

However, if you really do want to mess with them, you need to corner weight the car with YOU in it and the amount of gas you race with (probably 1/2 tank or more).

Obviously, ideal is equal weight on all 4 tires. Since this won't happen, go for equal weight side to side. If you can't achieve that, go for equal diagonal weights. Though the car won't handle as well turning one direction vs the other, it'll feel the same.

Mark (the other one)

 

[number3]

...with a someone about 20lbs heavier than me in the driver seat and still very little gas.

1038 937


797 732


Thanks Marks I am very interested in your comments if you have more. I really want to start to understand more on this aspect of the car.

Harry

 

[number3]

Thanks Mark,

I have the Adams book and I will pick up the Puhn.

Number3 can finally be driven again.

Harry

 

[number3]

Well I drove number3 today for some break in miles and the car seems to handle pretty well, so far as I can tell.

The rear top nuts on the Tiens keep coming loose. I think I have a fix though. I need to soften them up (currently on #8) the car bounces real hard over bumps. They are much stiff than the AGX/H&R combo.

Harry

I started a new thread for better search archives.

https://www.galantvr4.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=002579

 

Here's my page on book recommendations. Its probably outdated (along with everything else).

http://www.minnstech.com/books.htm

Strangely enough, I highly recommend the Mustang book. They use mcpherson struts in the front same as we do and it details their ways to overcome its inherent disadvantages. The other books tend to give more info on race track suspensions like doube wishbone and SLAs.

I do disagree with the book on one aspect. It talks about how the only reason that Macpherson strut is used is for cost reasons. IMHO, mac strut is superior for rally and notice that the 911 has used this design as well for the past 30 years. Obviously, cost is not a concern with that car.

Mark

 

[markrieb]

Harry,

Without taking up an apprenticeship with a NASCAR team, buy a book called "How to Make Your Car Handle" by Fred Puhn. My local Barnes and Noble usually keeps a copy on the shelf, list price is around $20, usually found for less.

Quite a bit of time is spent explaining all of the suspension terms, what the different numbers should be, how the car is affected if they are not what they should be, et..

A couple of other books that have been recommended, but I haven't read are:

Performance Handling/How to Make Your Car Handle Techniques for the 1990's or High-Performance Handling Handbook by Don Alexander

Chassis Engineering/Chassis Design, Building & Tuning for High Performance Handling by Herb Adams (of F-Body fame)

Tune to Win by Carroll Smith

Mark Rieb

 

[number3]

I have the Mustang performance, because of my V8 Miata and I love that book. I have it marked and highlighted all over the place.

It is written so well but nothing on the suspension. Maybe that is what book two is about. I will gladly check it out. Thanks.

Harry