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exhaust manifold stud replace?

paul j

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
282
Location
Lone Tree, CO
I need to replace a missing em stud. What is proper torque for 8x1.25 steel stud going into the aluminum head?
Should a thread locker or a hardening gasket sealer like Permatex 1B be used also?
 

snailspool

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Messages
123
Location
Albuquerque, NM
I don't believe there are torque specs, as they are not supposed to be torqued (like head studs). Hand tight, and some blue threadlocker, just a dab. Don't forget anti-seize on the nut portion.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Do not torque studs. Ever. Only tighten til it's snug, it should go in by hand. If it doesn't then you need to repair the threads in the head with a chaser. It will tighten when you install the nut. I don't recommend the use of thread lock at all. These studs are meant to be installed dry and thread lock will only make any future repairs harder.

Don't use regular anti-seize, it won't last. You need high temp anti-seize. The biggest reason for stud failure is improper tightening of the nuts. Try to torque them down. Otherwise don't tighten them so damn tight. The manifold will expand and tighten up the stud even more.
 
Last edited:

BogusSVO

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 29, 2013
Messages
232
Location
Pensacola, Florida
Prove it is for the most part spot on.

The only place I will differ is the use of some sealant on the bottom center exhaust stud, it is an open hole and enters an oil return port.

But for the other 8 studs, dry and finger tight.
 

jnava

Staff member
Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Messages
2,073
Location
Arlington, Tx
The guys are correct, I replaced mine when I purchased the FP manifold. Just hand tightened and I think I do recall adding anti-seize.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Guess I never realized the center bolt was an open hole. I'll have to look, but could be the source of my oil leak. Thanks.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Hope so. What kind of sealant works best in that spot since their is higher heat? Copper RTV?
 

snailspool

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 13, 2012
Messages
123
Location
Albuquerque, NM
I like to use just a dab of threadlock as anti-seize seems to wear out over the years and I hate it when the stud backs out with the nut, YMMV. Also, torquing from the middle out, a 1/2 turn at a time after the manifold is flush, really seems to help the seal, and keeps the torque even.
 

G

Staff member
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
This stuff works pretty good. click
 

Whoodoo

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
927
Location
Binghamton, NY
I know all about that bottom center. When I replaced my head, the threads in that hole all pulled out when I tightened the nut. I fixed it by installing a threaded steel sleeve, but didn't realize the hole entered the oil passage until after I drilled it out. I had to pull the oil pan back off and clean out all the chips that fell into the engine.
 
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