Eastwood Hi-Temp Internal Exhaust Coating

[tektic]

This is the only product I found to coat the exhaust parts on the inside?
Link to product page
Is this up for turbo duty?

I'm not looking to spend lots of money on professional ceramic coatings.
I would like to coat the inside and outside of my down pipe, o2, turbo, and manifold to keep heat inside the exhaust system.

For the outside I was considering VHT Flame Proof because of availability in a spray can.
Satin Black Hi-Temp Coating from east wood says its only good up to 1200°.

Please reply with positive results on any DIY heat barrier coatings that will cost me less than $100 to treat all parts mentioned. I will be making heat shields also.

 

[EHmotorsports]

I haven't tried the coating for the inside but the spray flame proof holds up ok if you can sand blast the part you are painting and following the instructions to a T. but they are just to keep everything from rusting. not a heat barrier like the coatings you pay big money for.

 

[EMX5636]

I don't think 1800 is going to be enough for inside. I used to peg the 1650* pyrometer in my old GSX. Granted it was a pretty big setup, but most coatings don't hold up on the inside of the turbo manifolds.

 

[unistylef]

Even if it does hold up internally, wouldn't layers of carbon cover it to non-existence?

 

[tektic]

I once read that an eight inch of soot reduces heat transfer by nine percent. Carbon is an insulator and helping reduce heat transfer. If I wanted it to be pretty that would be a problem but if it gets a little dirty that's helping keep the heat in. Either way If I'm producing that much soot something is wrong with the tune, and if i get any where near an eight of an inch i would be choking out the turbo.

When do EGTs become “too high”? Lets look at the melting point of aluminum first – it is only 1220.666F (660.37C) degrees.

1600° Fahrenheit (871° Celsius) is considered to be a good number, borderline high EGTs. It is probably safe to briefly run up to 1650°F (899C°). Of course people run and various tuners recommend 1700°F (926C°), 1800°F (982C°) and up to 1900°F (1037C°). Temps this high ARE causing damage to turbos and engine components. Here is an excellent article on EGTs , and it pertains to both gasoline and diesel engines.

So, why 1600F (871C) degrees is a good number? Lets look at your engine. It has cast iron cylinders and the pistons are made out of aluminum alloy, which can withstand temperatures higher than 1220°F (660C°). But what about your turbo turbine wheel? Turbo exhaust housing is normally cast iron, so it can take a lot of heat, but the turbine wheel is aluminum. Regular turbos can sustain brief inlet temperature spikes of up to about 1600°F (871C°). Optimal exhaust gas inlet temperature, however, is about 1200°F (660C°) for turbos and their components. So it seems to me at 1800° my turbo is going to melt anyway, so if the advertising is right I shouldn't have to worry about flaking paint.

 

[EMX5636]

I agree with the theory completely. I definitely wasn't sustaining 1600+ degrees. I unfortunately, have seen most of the spray and ceramic coatings not hold up, especially on a cast manifold. I've even seen Jet-hot and others start to flake and fall off. I used 2000* ceramic coating on two of my old setups, one still looks awesome (flat black), one started coming off after a couple months. Both were prepped the same way and coated with the same gun/ceramic.

Give it a shot, I've seen grill paint and even regular 500* engine temp hang around for a long time. So it seems hit/miss.

 

[JNR]

afaik, the turbine wheel is not made of aluminum, although the compressor wheel is. As for this coating, hmmm, not so sure it would hold up really well in a turbo application (much different than a header primary tube) but wonder what the worst thing that would happen if it were to flake off? Not sure it will damage the wheel but not real sure (personally wouldn't take the chance as I just rebuilt my turbo and don't want to do it again /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif ).

 

[tektic]

Well, if paint does flake off its most likely going to pass right throught at higher rpm. If something does get stuck, its a paint chip... How bad can it be? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[JNR]

Well, water drops are harmless on their own, but add it to a 150k rpm rotating wheel and problems start happening /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif But I don't know how hard or durable those flakes would be and it is the turbine wheel so may not be any issue...but like I said I personally wouldn't bother trying it out, but that's just me. I wanted to ceramic coat the outside of the turbine housing, as well as the O2 housing (304 SS) but ran short on funds, so just ended up wrapping the O2 with silica and making a heat shield for the alt/PS area...we'll see how it works. I'd love to be able to coat the inside(s) too but didn't want to take the chance. I also run a hi-flo 3" cat so maybe a chunk would make it into that...those things seems so sensitive to things and not interested in replacing it. Again, may not be an issue, but still.

 

[tektic]

It has been ordered. I plan on doing the exhaust manifold, o2 housing, and down pipe. How much clearence is in the turbine housing? I may or may not do this.
Then Flame proof, heat shields, and hood scoop.

If I blow up my turbo I'll be sure to make it known.

 

[prove_it]

Turbine wheels are made of inconel or titanium alloys. Aluminum wheels would die in seconds.

Biggest issue you'll have with painting the inside of your parts is the metal prep. Most likely it won't bond correctly and will not stay. Ceramic coating prevents this.

Hope you well, but I doubt all this work will be worth it. If it was, this would be a common place practice in the race community.

 

[tektic]

Reply: Well, Its a new product in there catalog.

edited after heating in oven and reassessing:

Ported, Sand blasted, and coated (inside and out).

Downpipe

manifold

exhaust runner

O2

turbo



I got to admit, It looks like it's going to burn right off in some spots. So much came out of the tube that it pooled with very minimal application. If I was doing it again I would go very very lightly with the tube applicator in only the deepest part of the pipes, after spraying as much as I could with the regular spray tip. After being in my oven to bake at 350° for 15 min. it's hard and smooth to the touch. As of right now it looks like I'll be wire wheeling it off the turbo housing where the turbo goes in. There are a lot of drips, and its very uneven. I'll leave it on the manifold and 02 housing to see what happens. It seems like it will be better than having no coating, especially after seeing how fast everything rusted after sand blasting.

 

[G]

A waste of less than $100.

</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quoting tektic:</font><hr />
This is the only product I found to coat the exhaust parts on the inside?
Link to product page
Is this up for turbo duty?

I'm not looking to spend lots of money on professional ceramic coatings.
I would like to coat the inside and outside of my down pipe, o2, turbo, and manifold to keep heat inside the exhaust system.

For the outside I was considering VHT Flame Proof because of availability in a spray can.
Satin Black Hi-Temp Coating from east wood says its only good up to 1200°.

Please reply with positive results on any DIY heat barrier coatings that will cost me less than $100 to treat all parts mentioned. I will be making heat shields also.

<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">

 

[tektic]

Quote:
Poster: G
A waste of less than $100.



Aren't you glad I posted this then, so no one else gets tempted and waste their money..

 

[G]

No, already knew it was a waste before you posted.

 

[tektic]

And A all ready new you have nothing nice to say...
So next time.... Dont!

 

[G]

10-4.

 

[tektic]

Quote:
10-4


Thank you.
I'm Just trying to generate constructive commentary, not insults.
For the $26 and the half hour I spent what I have now is better off than what I started with.

 

[G]

No insults were given, just opinions.

 

[EMX5636]

Run it for a few hundred miles (with full load pulls) and take a pic inside and see if it's still there. It seems like a standard ceramic coating in a can. Hope it works out for you, but I'm not holding my breath. Either way, it looks nice, and might help keep some of the rust down on the outside.