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E39 GVR4 Buyer's Guide

DR1665

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Joined
Oct 19, 2005
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4,642
Location
Iowa City, IA
I've been wanting to do a series of buyer's guides on GBXM for a while. What better car to start things off than the 6th generation GVR4?

If these cars are ever going to be worth the premium we'd all like to get for them, we need to educate potential buyers as to what makes for a good investment (vs. a 4-door DSM). Rather than assume I know everything and just write something, I'd like to get YOUR feedback. I think that would make for a higher quality resource.

Up for it? Here's some topics I'd like to include:

- What makes for a more valuable GVR4?
- What detracts from the value of a GVR4?
- I'm going to look at a GVR4. What warning signs should I look for?
- Where should I be willing to compromise on my "must haves" in order to get a good car?

Thanks!
 

Jesus_Negros

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Jan 7, 2012
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2,344
Location
USA
My guide just says: No!

No really I value a kept up stockish car over any modifications.
And if there is modifications, then the quality of work and parts.

I know they aren't DSM's, but they get DSM'd just as well.
 

thomcasey

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Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
I just got mine, and am in the process of restoring it. I think wheels, a little rake in the stance and stock looking upgrades are as far as I would go (E316g, fuel and link) Plus keeping it 4-lug. I understand the removal of the AWS (I am removing mine intact and installing a "deleted AWS" rear subframe with a 4-bolt rearend. Exept for wheels, I even kept my swapped Colt stock but clean. Looks better being unique, IMO.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Jan 1, 2012
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SoCal
Quoting DR1665:


Up for it? Here's some topics I'd like to include:

- What makes for a more valuable GVR4?
- What detracts from the value of a GVR4?
- I'm going to look at a GVR4. What warning signs should I look for?
- Where should I be willing to compromise on my "must haves" in order to get a good car?

Thanks!



Before G posts:

- What makes for a more valuable GVR4? No rust.
- What detracts from the value of a GVR4? Rust.
- I'm going to look at a GVR4. What warning signs should I look for? Rust.
- Where should I be willing to compromise on my "must haves" in order to get a good car? No rust...and maintenance records.


In all seriousness though, I feel like good examples are already starting to fetch some good coin. Putting what a good example is down on paper will be a challenge though, as everyone looks for different things when buying a car, or more specifically, a VR4.

Overall, I'd say cleanliness is the most important factor. Here again, it's defining that term when it comes to describing a VR4 that is the hard part. Are you looking for a list of suggestions, or more like an overall idea of what a clean Galant VR4 should be?
 

Jesus_Negros

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Jan 7, 2012
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Oh and none of this foolishness click
 

Jesus_Negros

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Been around for longer than that.
 

manikbastrd

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Nov 19, 2009
Messages
660
I can't believe I actually read that whole thread. You trolled so hard Tnegros.
 

Wookalar

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Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Messages
458
Location
Arizona USSA
Quote:

- What makes for a more valuable GVR4?
- What detracts from the value of a GVR4?
- I'm going to look at a GVR4. What warning signs should I look for?
- Where should I be willing to compromise on my "must haves" in order to get a good car?




Definitely no rust. A well kept interior, as in vacuumed frequently and leather conditioned regularly - a rarity I find amongst even higher line auto communities, the leather always seems to get neglected. And of course well maintained over all, scheduled oil changes and maintenance with receipts to back it up.

]b]Detractions[/b]

Rust. Keep an eye out for any "modifications" the owner did relating to electronics and wiring. If there are wires running all over the bay to the battery that could be a problem. And of course as you personally saw, Driggs, other "modifications" such as "custom fuel cell" for example. Any metal fabrication parts should always be inspected. Of course there is no 100% way to tell whether or not the owner/seller did modifications correctly because even by just looking at the car there can be hidden issues. One example of this was the tape in the custom intercooler that I just happened to find by accident, thankfully.

I think a stock car is very valuable however a modified car can be valuable if the workmanship is of high level, and the parts came from known quality vendors. Example: IMO a vehicle would be more valuable to me if it had a genuine Mitsubishi turbo on it, 14b, 16g whatever, than say a Chinese knock off from ebay, and if the owner went the extra mile to replace all gaskets and hardware during the turbo install.

This is just my opinion, everyone is different. I think a general buyers guide will just need to say, here's what to look for, and then go on to state common issues that plagues these cars from a manufacturing stand point, which are not much. After that we are getting into personal preference, as in, one person believes their level of workmanship is high while the next guy might feel that persons level of workmanship is low.

Regarding manufacturing defects or common issues, off the top of my head:

Rust, usually in the lower front fender area and inside the lower door area. The stock metal strut tops are also a clear indication of how bad rust could be on the vehicle. If the stock strut tops are really rusty then it is likely that there is rust in the doors and fenders also.

The ECU, specifically leaking caps. Easily fixed by a professional.

Grinding gears with clutch engaged: could be a sign of a improper clutch install, or a hydraulic system that needs attention. Could get costly if the trans needs replacement, or time consuming if the pedal box needs rebuilding.

Last, leaking 4 wheel steering lines. Not a huge issue, it can be resolved going either way depending on how much money one has to spend. 4ws lines can be recreated if one wishes to keep the system, or they can be deleted fairly easily.

Other than those issues, I cannot think of any major manufacturing/mechanical issues that plagues the 4g63 and e39a platform. 6 bolt 4g63 FTW.
 

DR1665

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Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,642
Location
Iowa City, IA
Excellent. Thanks, gents. This is good stuff. Would have been back sooner, but forgot to tick the favorites box for email updates.

Here's how I'm thinking about breaking the guide out:

Intro
-Brief History
-Differentiating Features
-General Things to Look For (I believe the answer, here, is rust.)

Investment Grade
- picture (Wookalar, you interested?)
- Expect to pay Shall we say, US$15K+?
- Expected condition?

Stock(ish) Mint
- picture (Who should I contact for a picture?)
- Expect to pay US$10K+?
- Expected condition?

Average
- picture (Who should I contact for a picture?)
- Expect to pay US$5k-10K+?
- Expected condition?

Rough
- picture (Who should I contact for a picture?)
- Expect to pay US$2K-5K?
- Expected condition?

Roller
- picture (Who should I contact for a picture?)
- Expect to pay < US$2K
- Expected condition?

Thanks, guys. Much obliged.
 

Wookalar

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Nov 27, 2013
Messages
458
Location
Arizona USSA
Another thing to look out for is the wiring harness. Clean untouched vs hacked up. Or perhaps replaced entirely by a ambitious owner, however this would be subject to scrutiny IMO.

I think Gizmo's white VR4 would be a good example of a very fine modified specimen. Or formerly Terry Posten's white VR4, while not overly modded it is a nice example of a modified car. I felt compelled to edit this for clarity in that I have never seen the underside of either aforementioned cars, I am not vouching for them, but giving them a praise based on restoration process, photographs and video footage.

As for a fine stock specimen, probably Pot's, I believe he has a the low mileage #182. Or that black one that recently was sold out of Tucson. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

Above all, when buying a car, inspect it in person and get it up on a lift if possible.
 
Last edited:

fuel

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Feb 23, 2009
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Toronto, ON, Canada
I know probably not entirely valid or useful for USDM models, but my site here gives a brief introduction of the Galant VR-4 and all the various JDM models with their respective specs.
 

89Patches

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Joined
Jan 30, 2013
Messages
723
Location
Ontario Canada
For the stock(ish) mint car should go to Bobdole's 504/2000 as probably the best example IMHO.

Ah crap forgot about Turbo Tom's 1444/2000 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif His too!
 
Last edited:

slugsgomoo

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Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Messages
3,776
Location
Tacoma, WA
I think for your nicest examples, 431, 1051, and 1444 have to be at the top of the list.

I think when you get into modded cars though, aside from mod quality (brand name parts, quality of installation & combination) the waters get a lot muddier. Cars like Mark, Tom & Nelson own are very well sorted examples who have been proven over time. My car is pretty well put together but it's never hit the dyno or (timed) track event, and still has things I'm working out.

While I'd suggest that a low mileage, well maintained stock car with perfect paint may fetch a considerable amount, there's a point at which a modded car is worth more, even if it's not quite as clean, simply due to part out value being substantial.
 

mikus

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Jan 11, 2007
Messages
2,763
Location
Aurora IL
Quote:
the wiring harness


+1 --- huge factor. Entire engine bay, MPI, ECU, fuel pump should not exhibit any wiring funny business. Stereo area wires, meh, those are often a birds nest.
 

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
+1^ Also hordes of Zip-Ties, tape all over, crimp connectors, lack of bracketry on piping those are good indicaters of hack job work.
 

badams

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Joined
Jun 16, 2014
Messages
123
Location
KC, MO
Quoting DR1665:

Average
- picture (Who should I contact for a picture?)
- Expect to pay US$5k-10K+?
- Expected condition?





I think 5k is high for an average VR4 but if you want to give me 5k for mine let me know /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Need to pay off my student loans......
 
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