Hey all I am new to this forum and also I am new to dsm's I do not own one at this time but I will be buying a vr-4 in the near future. I just need to know what can be daily driven and what problems am I going to run into with some mods on a vr-4. I live in WI and I would be driving the car during the winter. Please let me know.
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So I didn't read the post before mine... Galants aren't dsms? well forgive me for having a few drinks before going on forums hehe please help!
sorry for being bad. So trans problems? diff problems under power? any other problems? any little things? I need to DD one of these. may have to buy one slightly modded seems like there is only a few left stock. Let me know if anyone has feedback for me.
creeping_death
Active member
So yeah, these cars have lots of problems. Lots of breaky breaky.... You really should just invest in a Huffy, you know the one with the bbring bbring on the handle bar?
haha dude that was pro! my new hero. So let me help you flame me, I own a honda.
Problems don't bother me, I just need to know what they are so I can fix them before it becomes a huge problem. I am just looking for feedback. I am buying a vr-4 no doubt in my mind.
just do your maintenance work. I've had 3 daily driven vr4s, I put about $1K into each of them before I truly trusted them for DD duty. Maintenance maintenance maintenance
If you want a better list start reading up, it's not like this site is full of threads about clay-barring and tire shine.
If you want a better list start reading up, it's not like this site is full of threads about clay-barring and tire shine.
Nice thanks.
T-case recall for leaks, go easy on the tranny, turbo might go depending on mileage and how previous owner abused it. I bought mine for DD and was great till it started leaking from the head gasket. Some VR4's suffer from idle hunting like mine did, but it's all an easy fix as long as you know what you're doing, like with any other car that's 20 years old.
524of1000
Well-known member
Just like any car that's nearly 20 years old and 150,000+ miles, eventually everything is going to fail. In the 3 years I've owned my car, the (maintenance) parts I've replaced are:
*Timing belt
*Water Pump
*Oil Pump
*Head Gasket
*Head Studs
*ALL fluids
*ALL hoses
*Front Axels
*Valve seals and Guides
*Air Filter
*Piston rings
*Rod Bearings
*Turbo
*Fuel Filler Neck
*Accessory Belts
*Wheel Bearings
*Front Struts
Luckily my car has been in South Texas it's whole life, so there is little to no rust at all. I'm sure there's more, but that's all I can think of. And those are just MAINTENANCE parts, not including the go fast bits. Your experience may differ. As long as you keep up with maintenance, it can be a very fun and reliable car, even in stock form. My car is far from stock so I anticipate having to fix things more often then, say, my Nissan Sentra. However, that was my original intent. Again, Your individual results may very.
*Timing belt
*Water Pump
*Oil Pump
*Head Gasket
*Head Studs
*ALL fluids
*ALL hoses
*Front Axels
*Valve seals and Guides
*Air Filter
*Piston rings
*Rod Bearings
*Turbo
*Fuel Filler Neck
*Accessory Belts
*Wheel Bearings
*Front Struts
Luckily my car has been in South Texas it's whole life, so there is little to no rust at all. I'm sure there's more, but that's all I can think of. And those are just MAINTENANCE parts, not including the go fast bits. Your experience may differ. As long as you keep up with maintenance, it can be a very fun and reliable car, even in stock form. My car is far from stock so I anticipate having to fix things more often then, say, my Nissan Sentra. However, that was my original intent. Again, Your individual results may very.
I forgot to mention on my car the trunk release cable and fuel door* release snapped so those need to be replaced as well. Oh and the coolant temp gauge doesn't exactly read right. From what I hear the needle will stay in the same spot from 160-220 degrees. Aftermarket water temp gauge isn't a bad investment along with a decent a/fr and boost gauge.
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Xcelerate
Active member
To tell u honestly I have a 600+hp dsm still have the ac, ps, pw, stock height adjustable struts, hta turbo, e86 fuel, simple eagle ross setup and mild head setup. The external wastegate is dump back to exhaust si its quiet on 30+psi of boost. The interior is leather black, quite ride on high speed.
Point is its a reliable street car I drive it everyday. Its a fun speed and comfort setup.
A well build engine nothing too crazy, Stock Head Gasket (yes they hold the power). This will eliminate the overheating problem. Arp studs. If you have a stock long block keep it just install arp studs. Theres nothing well build than the factory engine. And yes they will also hold over 600hp. Check youtube and youll see 9-10sec runs on stock. Now thats half the battle if you can avoid overheating.
Now the rest are leak free intake and exhaust, I mean zero leak!!!!
Lastly is a good reliable tune.
By the way this is on 1g dsm. And its similar to gvr4. Im one of the dsm specialist and tuners so I learn this from my own experience and dealing with different dsm setup everyweek. Also deal with different turbo setup on other cars. And theyre all apply the same
Point is its a reliable street car I drive it everyday. Its a fun speed and comfort setup.
A well build engine nothing too crazy, Stock Head Gasket (yes they hold the power). This will eliminate the overheating problem. Arp studs. If you have a stock long block keep it just install arp studs. Theres nothing well build than the factory engine. And yes they will also hold over 600hp. Check youtube and youll see 9-10sec runs on stock. Now thats half the battle if you can avoid overheating.
Now the rest are leak free intake and exhaust, I mean zero leak!!!!
Lastly is a good reliable tune.
By the way this is on 1g dsm. And its similar to gvr4. Im one of the dsm specialist and tuners so I learn this from my own experience and dealing with different dsm setup everyweek. Also deal with different turbo setup on other cars. And theyre all apply the same
Xcelerate
Active member
The point on this post is, reliability on high HP is possible as long as its done right. The quality parts is not a necessity and long as its a good quality install. Most of my piping setups are my own hand made with the help of a wire feed arc welder. Wastegate and BOV was ebay brand, till i got a good deal from my clients with the brand parts. Still on stock intake manifold, less chance to leak and better runner design. So theres basically not much to upgrade.
If im gonna build another dsm of my own, i will stick with stock engine with arp studs and 272cams. Then focus on turbo, IC, exhaust upgrade. Its good enough to hold 500+ hp setup
If im gonna build another dsm of my own, i will stick with stock engine with arp studs and 272cams. Then focus on turbo, IC, exhaust upgrade. Its good enough to hold 500+ hp setup
^To add to that, leave the bottom end alone if it's in good shape. Work on the head, that is where the power gains are seen along with proper software and tune.
I guess the only REAL problem that will never go away is the Honda and Subaru guys will give ya sh*t along with the domestic car owners for owning a dsm. I'd like to let my work/car do the talking /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Thanks a lot everyone. I was wondering if I could daily drive one that was modded slightly and I got my answer. I just have to keep in mind that it is a 20 year old car. I am looking forward to getting one of these, I just have to sell my honda. I am looking at 28/1000 right now! I really want to keep one of these alive and put a lot of TLC into it!
I have put approx. 80K on my GVR4 since I bought it. (currently 168K and running strong! except ISC is gone! hehe.. other than regular maintenance at the initial purchase, not too much break here or there. Winter driving is really fun! I am thinking about getting some snow tires and let the GVr4 rule snow this year. I also had the compression check which does add little more assurance when I bought it.
yeti
Well-known member
if you isc is bad it can fry your ecu drivers
