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driveline windup and other irritating issues

NickDromez

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
165
Location
Berkeley, CA
So 485 is having some driveline windup issues. Im not sure how other members cars drive or how other AWD cars drive so I dont know how extreme it is. Basically, in 1st gear, after a stop ill accelerate normally and it jerks real hard, almost feels like a RWD or FWD car in 1st gear and pressing the gas hard and letting go fast, but over and over again. It eventually slows down and stops once the car gets going, but once you let go of the gas it shakes and jerks real hard until the car is going slow enough or until i press the clutch. And yes, I know how to drive stick so its not a driver issue. Iv been thinking about getting a 4 bolt LSD for 485 and I was wondering if this would help get rid of the windup.

Also, does anybody else have that loud air leak sound coming from the rear little triangle windows? iv tried almost everything to get rid of it, taken the windows out, put sealing stuff, put back in, more sealing stuff. I cant figure it out /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Also, in any gear, everytime i let go of the gas and coast i get a horrible whirling/grinding sound coming from somewhere in the drivetrain. i have changed the fluid in the tranny, the transfer case, and the rear diff and still the sound is there. anyone else have this problem and what did they do to fix it? EDIT: noise goes away when I add gas again.

Lastly, On cold starts, there is a fast clicking sound coming from the engine, at first i thought it was valve click or some kind of cam problem. But now Im thinking it is the spark plugs that are making the sound (NGK iridium plugs gapped to .030). Not really sure what it is. The sound also goes away once the car is warmed up.

all help is greatly appreciated!! sorry, if these topics have been covered, i tried a search of everything but was unlucky. thanks again, these little problems have been really pissing me off latley
 
Last edited:

SouthCaliVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Messages
984
Location
North county San Diego
check motor mounts, driveshaft carriers, u joints, transfer case fluid level & rear brake calipers for binding. Also be sure you have the same size tires on all four corners as well as inflation.
 

NickDromez

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
165
Location
Berkeley, CA
iv checked everything but the motor mounts, and everything is good. tire pressure is the same in all tires as well (filled with that fancy nitro)
 

SouthCaliVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Messages
984
Location
North county San Diego
Other thought on the grinding noise, Is there any sign of the exhaust hitting the drive shaft. Mine will do this when I run through a deep puddle & part of the exhasut warps enough to contact, just sitting my clearance is a good half inch at any given spot.
 

NickDromez

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
165
Location
Berkeley, CA
im pretty sure its not the exhasut hitting anything or the driveshaft hitting anything, ill check when i can though to make sure thats not the problem. i forgot to add that the noise goes away as soon as i give it gas again. so the griding noise is only there during coast
 

trunks

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Messages
268
Location
Annandale, MN
Exact same problem here with drive shaft. It does the wub wub but also some grinding noises. From a dead stop the whole freaking car shakes and a loud clunk comes from the rear /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif.

I've been experimenting with spacers and it got a little better with some on the front joint and none on the back. I even have those fancy poly urethane mounts and a rebuilt driveshaft and it's still doing it. I was going to try heavy weight shock proof gear oil in the transfer case. If that doesn't do it I'm going to start replacing differentials so I'm definately interested in this thread.
 

NickDromez

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
165
Location
Berkeley, CA
I checked to see if the exhaust was hitting at all and it wasn't. So now I'm back to wondering what the heck it could be
 

SouthCaliVR4

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Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Messages
984
Location
North county San Diego
If all else checks, probably looking at a damaged rear diff brg, drain the fluid & see if you getting metal in the gear oil, better check the transfer case too, if it locks up on you it will not be a fun moment.

In other words if it's not any of the external stuff...
 

the wub wub wub rattle grinding on decel at 3k down is the drive shaft carriers. they may look fine but are not. put the car on a lift and run it in 5th gear and decel you will actually be able to see the drive shaft vibrating.
 

socal... ur exhaust could be hitting the driveshaft but the most likely cause of that noise is water getting in between the the rubber of the driveshaft carrier and and the driveshaft, throwing the driveshaft out of balance momentarily
 

SouthCaliVR4

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Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Messages
984
Location
North county San Diego
^^^No, my drive shaft was completely redone a few thousand miles back, it's the exhaust warping, I have made it happen on the rack using a hose just to proove it to myself. A couple dimples & trimming my cat fixed it.
 

When your driveshaft was redone, did the person doing it mark it so it was reassembled & lined up the same way it was before it was taken apart? Did they put in new carrier bearings? I really don't see the exhaust warping. Maybe the carrier bearings support bushings are bad & the water simply throws it off balance enough for the driveshaft to move around? Maybe your exhaust hangers are shot too.
 

SouthCaliVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Messages
984
Location
North county San Diego
As I said, problem of mine is already fixed. Yes new carriers, u-joints & re-balanced It would happen in the snow too. Trust me, it was the exhaust warping when it was hot & anything cold splashed up on it. just a case of thermal expansion & contraction on a very long tight fitting pipe. IF I dropped a gear & ran her in boost to heat the whole exhaust again it would stop, road speed made no difference it would rub going five in a parking lot or eighty on the freeway.

The main rub point was the flange of the converter heat shield the other was a spot where it ran under the driveshaft. I trimed back the shield & dimpled the spot under the shaft, Hasn't happend since.

hangers where new, piping was done by Certifide & is 3" stainless turbo back with a hogged 1g o2 housing. down pipe has the flex joint. So while it may not be common it can happen.
 

trunks

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Messages
268
Location
Annandale, MN
This is very interesting. After reading this I noticed in my car that it makes a lot more racket when warmed up too. I did a few harder pulls and sure enough the clanking got much louder. So that's possibly at least two cases. Maybe this will help others wrestling with the problem as well. Guess it's time to grab a hammer and my grinder!
 

NickDromez

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
165
Location
Berkeley, CA
thanks 600of1000, i will deffinatly do that, i work at big o tires so i have easy access to lifts, however i will have to do it later because something on my power steering system blew up and i cant drive my car now otherwise ill fry my rack and pinion and PS pump
 

steve

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2003
Messages
18,897
Location
NJ
You could cut the PS belt and drive with "manual power steering". Not fun but it will get you by and you wont fry your dry PS pump.
 

NickDromez

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
165
Location
Berkeley, CA
@stevegls. if my rack is leaking and has no fluid is it still driveable even with the belt removed? i know i will save the pumps life if i take the belt off but idk where my leak is coming from yet.
 
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