The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Clutch Replacement

I am looking at the 1g DSM clutch replacement VFAQ. I was just wondering how different it is going to be than a DSM. There is always some difference, and on a job this big (for me) I want to know about it!

Thanks
 

Wizardawd

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
1,323
Location
Franklin, NC
Other than the battery and intercooler piping being in a different location, it's the same.

Wiz
 

Just make sure you dont forget the right-member and gusset (same on both dsm awd and gvr4).

clutch-13.jpg


CVboot-06a.jpg


I ignored this step (coming from FWD DSM's) and it is impossible /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif to get the transmission down with the guesset in place.

Not sure of your experience, just a friendly reminder. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

JackbNimble

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
274
Location
Youngwood, PA
Remember to remove the transfer case too. First time I did a clutch and transmission replacement on my car, we sat there for like an hour trying to figure out why the transmission wouldn't come off until we finally realized you had remove the t-case first /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
 

Lol, thanks...not much experience here. I swapped a clutch once on my LT1 Z-28 years ago and it was really hard for me. I heard that FWD is substantially harder. I cannot imagine how hard an AWD is going to be. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 

You'll get the hang of it. Alone with air tools i can drop a trans in 1 hour. 3-4 hours to put it back up. Just keep in mind you may have to wiggle it back to get it out and wiggle forward to get it in. (no pun in tended). and you will have to pull out and tilt it back (firewall side, axle side down) for it to come out cleanly. Make sure you have a jack or a friend you can drop it on once its free. Also, the axles, some can be a pain. Use a very large screw driver, jam it in there (without hurting anything) and give it a few smacks and prys. they should pop right out. Driver side axle, dont forget it is bolted to the block with either 2x 14mm or 12mm bolts.

You may own a DSM if...

Quote:
17. a normal weekend involves removing your transmission 5 times.



Let us know how it goes, i enjoy first timer experiences /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
Last edited by a moderator:

DynastyLCD

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2006
Messages
761
Location
Harwinton, CT
the first time isnt always fun, but youll get the hang of it! as geno said, dont forget the 12mm in the back of the bolt, that threads into the transmission.

tools needed:
10mm wrench + socket
12mm wrench + socket
14mm wrench + socket
17mm wrench + socket
32mm axle nut socket
2 jackstands
1 floorjack
prybars (various lengths)

tools you want to use:
10mm swivel socket
12mm swivel socket
14mm swivel socket
3/8" air or electric impact
1/2" air or electric impact
laptop for vfaq
talented friend


hope this helps!
 

1 1/4" wrench, ~3' pry bar (holds the hub from spinning, leverage it on the ground) and body weight works best for me to remove the axle nuts.

Edit: drunk posting, i fail
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Is a tranny jack advantageous? I will be getting it up myself. I would imagine that it would just get in the way would it not? I never understood the idea behind a tranny jack...yeah you can get it up so far but you still have to be able to move it by hand so that you can line it up.
 

I just use a jack or a cherry picker. The jack required some fumbling once the engine and the transmission are almost aligned. with a cherry picker there is a bolt hole just below the two engine mounting bolts (when standing in front of the car looking at the transmission in it natural position). from the cherry picker to the trans, use a good chain.

I typically like using the cherry picker because it requires no use of physical labor from the ground, into position. the bolt I'm referring to looks almost as if it was meant to be done this way. Real nice balance point.

I cant say anything if a transmission jack would be beneficial. But i can say i dont believe this job warrants any reason to go out and buy one for it.
 

Thanks for the info. I have never used a cherry picker and have no one to help me out with it. I think the tranny jack would be easier for someone to figure out if they are dumb and solo. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

Almost have the tranny out...I removed the right member but couldn't find the gusset. Any idea where I am supposed to look? The VFAQ only shows the location of the right member. I am guessing that someone removed it, but I want to be sure before I find out the hard way when I am trying to remove the tranny.

Thanks

Quoting geno:
Just make sure you dont forget the right-member and gusset (same on both dsm awd and gvr4).

clutch-13.jpg


CVboot-06a.jpg


I ignored this step (coming from FWD DSM's) and it is impossible /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif to get the transmission down with the guesset in place.

Not sure of your experience, just a friendly reminder. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top