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Clutch question

GTX

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 13, 2012
Messages
100
Location
Toronto, Canada
Hi folks,

I have a simple question for those who have experience with the clutch setup. The pedal on my car feels very soft and disengaging the clutch at the very end of the move. The car was sitting in the garage for 6 years and has 270k on it. At first I thought I have air in the system or bad cylinders. So I replaced both of them only to find out that clutch stopped working at all. As a temporary measure, I put a nut at the end of the pushing rod in the lover cylinder. Clutch works fine right now. So I suspect, that the spring has weakened and I have to replace both the clutch disk and the spring. Can some one put some light into this. Am I on the right track? Much appreciated!!

A.
 

5OF2k

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
664
Location
colorado springs, colorado
check this out, and go from there:

click

Hope that helps!

-Jake
 

GTX

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 13, 2012
Messages
100
Location
Toronto, Canada
Thanks Jake! I did the adjustment and maxed out the length of the rod at the master cylinder. Does not help much.
 

5OF2k

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
664
Location
colorado springs, colorado
Poke around the vfaq a bit more man, there is tons and tons of info on there for our clutches and so-on. Id also recommend bleeding the system again, just to be sure you have no air in the system. It'd also be a good idea to look for any signs of the master or slave leaking, and if when you replaced the master you didnt bench bleed it first, it WILL be an absolute PAIN to bleed on the car with the lines hooked up, FWIW. Another possibility is the clutch pedal assembly being completely shot, which also is not uncommon for these cars.

Like I said, stroll through the VFAQ a bunch, and read up. TONS of info on there.

-Jake
 

LIV4PSI

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Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,774
Location
O-H-I-O
Here is some info from JNZ about checking the pedal assembly itself

"Common issue for high mileage Galant VR-4's is clutch disengagement problems. If you have tried replacing the clutch cylinders and checked for other common engagement problems reach down and pull up on your clutch pedal. If you can lift the pedal up freely the pedal is worn out. The clutch pedal lever rounds off causing slop in the pedal assembly resulting in not enough throw to properly disengage the clutch. This kit will include everything needed to fix that worn out assembly and get your pedal throw back."
 

JCorbo25

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 10, 2011
Messages
533
Location
Sacramento, CA
Yes, I had to do the clutch pedal assembly in my DSM and am planning to do it in my GVR4 in the future.
 

prove_it

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Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
When you replace your clutch assembly be sure to replace your clutch fork and pivot ball. There is an updated fork and also use only a genuine OEM throwout bearing. These things can also effect your pedal feel.
 

LIV4PSI

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Nov 24, 2011
Messages
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Location
O-H-I-O
I didn't know there wasn't an updated one. I just used a 2G fork. It is noticeably larger and stronger.
 

mitsuturbo

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Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,544
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
I'd say make sure it's complete bled out as well. It's fairly easy to get air trapped in the system, especially with new master/slave having been recently installed.

This way has always worked well for me...
Jam something in between the release fork and the slave cylinder to force it all the way back and hold it there.
Open the bleeder.
Slowly push the pedal to the floor using your hand, so it doesn't go too quickly forcing the slave cylinder to move.
With the pedal still on the floor, close the bleeder.
Once it's closed tightly, pull the pedal up (again, slowly with your hand). This should fill the master cylinder.
After the pedal is pulled all the way up, reopen the bleeder valve, and let gravity do the rest.
In my experience, the best way to bleed our clutch systems is just let gravity do most of the work for you. Once the reservoir is nearly empty, top it off, let it bleed down to the "max" level, close the bleeder, and check it again. This has worked well for me every time.

Also, check the rubber flex line between the frame and transmission. They can weaken with age as the rubber deteriorates, and while it doesn't usually "cause" issues, it can most certainly exacerbate them.

As mentioned previously, check the pedal assembly for wear. Any issues with the pedal should be evident when you do the clutch bleeding procedure, if you're using your hands rather than your feet.


What "spring" are you thinking could be worn out and in need of replacement?
 

prove_it

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Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Quoting LIV4PSI:
I didn't know there wasn't an updated one. I just used a 2G fork. It is noticeably larger and stronger.



Yea that is the revised one. Mitsu sells that one when you call in for a 1G fork.
 

GTX

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 13, 2012
Messages
100
Location
Toronto, Canada
Thanks a lot guys! Personal thanks to LIV4PSI! You were right, the problem was in the pedal. Since I did not have a new pedal assembly I found a poor man's solution /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif. Since there was not enough move for the push rod, I've welded two nuts onto outer side of the bracket, which connects the push rod to the pedal. This gave me the ability to screw the push rod out more than stock bracket would allow (about 1/4 inch), and to adjust the clutch the way it should be. Works like a charm.
 

LIV4PSI

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Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,774
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O-H-I-O
No problem man. Glad I could help
 
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