FlyingEagle
Staff member
89 Colt turbo C53a now having clutch pedal disengagement height issues/re-engagement issues.
Old setup:
KM210
Stock flat surface flywheel - lightened on the back maybe 11+ lbs in weight
CFDF pressure plate and friction disc (full face and separated pad combo) barely rated above stock torque capacity
Stock flywheel bolts
Light pedal effort much like stock for a KM210/F5m31
Shimmed pivot ball - 1 washer
Grease on the fork pivot and contact points
Grease on the area where the TOB slides
New replacement TOB 200 miles
Fork sitting at the middle point of the rubber boot on the transmission front face
New setup:
KM210 (same trans)
Lightweight Fidanza aluminum flywheel 8.0 lbs
ACT 2100 DSM pressure plate and full face matching clutch disc
7GTE bolts to make up for the extra thickness of the pressure plate mounting surface? (This is what was sent/marked for a 90 DSM on Ebay)
Heavy pedal effort and now without the carpet installed - just disengages off the floor and re-engages just after coming back off the floor
Same pivot ball shim, installed purple ACT grease on pivot points and new ACT TOB (0 miles)
Fork still at the middle point of the rubber boot on the transmission front face
I am having a real hard time getting the clutch system to adjust to where I would consider it proper, safe and useable for pedal height.
Checked to make sure the freeplay from rest to contact is correct.
Adjusted the rod at the master to take up some slack - adjusted all the way - minimal difference in height for pedal when engaging or disengaging off the floor.
Noticed a small amount of fluid had dripped out the rear of the master area on the inside of the firewall but this is old fluid, and not fresh.
Problem yes, but not the only issue I suspect.
My clutch pedal pivot appears to be roughly concentric and does not exhibit abnormal wear, and this is confirmed in checking the freeplay.
I have bled the system, of which was working flawlessly before the old setup came out, was not opened except to move it aside when the transmission dropped, and was since reinstalled and bled a few more times for good measure, once the new high resistance setup was in. It's bled to death.
What more could I be looking for to start with?
I am kind of racking my brain for more ideas?
Cheers,
Tim
Old setup:
KM210
Stock flat surface flywheel - lightened on the back maybe 11+ lbs in weight
CFDF pressure plate and friction disc (full face and separated pad combo) barely rated above stock torque capacity
Stock flywheel bolts
Light pedal effort much like stock for a KM210/F5m31
Shimmed pivot ball - 1 washer
Grease on the fork pivot and contact points
Grease on the area where the TOB slides
New replacement TOB 200 miles
Fork sitting at the middle point of the rubber boot on the transmission front face
New setup:
KM210 (same trans)
Lightweight Fidanza aluminum flywheel 8.0 lbs
ACT 2100 DSM pressure plate and full face matching clutch disc
7GTE bolts to make up for the extra thickness of the pressure plate mounting surface? (This is what was sent/marked for a 90 DSM on Ebay)
Heavy pedal effort and now without the carpet installed - just disengages off the floor and re-engages just after coming back off the floor
Same pivot ball shim, installed purple ACT grease on pivot points and new ACT TOB (0 miles)
Fork still at the middle point of the rubber boot on the transmission front face
I am having a real hard time getting the clutch system to adjust to where I would consider it proper, safe and useable for pedal height.
Checked to make sure the freeplay from rest to contact is correct.
Adjusted the rod at the master to take up some slack - adjusted all the way - minimal difference in height for pedal when engaging or disengaging off the floor.
Noticed a small amount of fluid had dripped out the rear of the master area on the inside of the firewall but this is old fluid, and not fresh.
Problem yes, but not the only issue I suspect.
My clutch pedal pivot appears to be roughly concentric and does not exhibit abnormal wear, and this is confirmed in checking the freeplay.
I have bled the system, of which was working flawlessly before the old setup came out, was not opened except to move it aside when the transmission dropped, and was since reinstalled and bled a few more times for good measure, once the new high resistance setup was in. It's bled to death.
What more could I be looking for to start with?
I am kind of racking my brain for more ideas?
Cheers,
Tim
