The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Charging system issue

maxash0775

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2009
Messages
217
Location
Bakersfield, CA
Hey guys. A few of you might remember a post on thanksgiving from me when my car dies on the dreaded grapevine because of an alternator. I replaced the alternator with an auto one one, got a new battery from walmart and all was good.....till now. My car was left idling for about 5 minutes or so while I was helping my handicapped father get into the house. When I got in my car I noticed the battery light on the dash was on very faintly. Prior to this, i noticed a noise coming from one of the belts on startup. Just started about a week ago. Could it be a loose alternator belt? Thanks in advance.
 

cheekychimp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
Yes, very likely! Also go take a look under the hood and see if there is any sign of damage to the belt. It is natural for a new belt to stretch and require retensioning after a short run in period. Factory belts in my opinion are better, so whilst retensioning the belt may solve the issue, if you are using a parts store non OEM belt, consider changing it.

Two other things to note. I mentioned checking for damage to the belt. Whether there is a subtle difference in alternators or if the bearings/shafts can move over time, I am not sure, but I recently had an alternator fitted that had the pulley wheel very slightly offset from the drive pulley on the block. It was barely noticeable but it was sufficient to make the belt jump/move and because it then wasn't straight it would chew itself to bits rubbing against the raised retaining edges of the pulley wheel.

Finally, after sorting out your issue, if the battery has drained that far that it caused the warning light to come on, consider removing it and putting it on a battery tender or taking it to a shop that has one so that you can charge it properly. Charging a dead or very low battery on the car doesn't always work well and if you have no other option but to do it this way you really should take the car out for a really good run (which you might not want to do if your charging system is still suspect). You should also start off with a known healthy charged battery if you want to do any diagnostics on your charging system after retensioning or changing your belt etc.

I have been having some idling issues and I have a thread running in the tech section about rpms dropping when I put my headlights on. There are a several good posts in there from Andre (grocery_getter) and one specifically mentions all the voltages you should be seeing if the system is healthy.

Hope ths helps.

Paul
 
Last edited:

holeshotmoe

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2005
Messages
1,291
Location
MD
I've burned them up from letting a belt slip too long. Also see if you're loosing power steering fluid from the pump just above the alternator. The fluid dripping on the alternator dissolves the laquer coating on the windings, resulting in shorts which in turn will burn it up.
 

rdomeck

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
620
Location
Indianapolis, In.
I have never had an Autozone anything that was worth putting on......I haven't ran anything from Autozone in over 15 years. The last time I used them I went through 7 alternators before they gave me a good one. Lifetime warranty? Yes....You will spend a lifetime replacing them. If it the alternator is bad again (and it probably is) spend the money on a Mitsu one or Napa. My 2 cents worth!
 

maxash0775

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2009
Messages
217
Location
Bakersfield, CA
Thanks all. I am off tomorrow and will check all things mentioned and will let you guys know why I have found.
 

maxash0775

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2009
Messages
217
Location
Bakersfield, CA
Urg. I have a gremlin I think. OK, so when I come to a stop, the battery light starts appearing, then the brake light starts lighting up and if you wait long enough the anti lock light starts coming on. I checked belt and its tight enough. I had autozone do there charging system check and the battery and alternator were 100%. What else could it be. Someone said loose connection but if it was wouldnt it show some sort of issue during the diagnostic? Please help, i hate being afraid to drive me own car. Thanks
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
What's your idle rpm?
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
The target idle speed for a galant vr4 is 850 rpm.

That's what the iac system tries to hit, so looking into why you're ticking over a little slow may pay great dividends.

Try holding the idle up with the throttle pedal.

Does the light go out at a slightly higher rpm?

Do you have a logger?

What's your iac doing/what are it's counts?


This "problem" may be as simple as a sagging idle rpm. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

maxash0775

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2009
Messages
217
Location
Bakersfield, CA
The lights will go out at a slightly higher rpm. I have to admit I messed with the biss awhile back and raised my rpm cause the idle was smoother at around 900-1000 rpm and just recently adjusted it back lower. Maybe it is to low?
 

ktmrider

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 10, 2007
Messages
3,128
Location
Tempe, AZ
Quoting maxash0775:
Urg. I have a gremlin I think. OK, so when I come to a stop, the battery light starts appearing, then the brake light starts lighting up and if you wait long enough the anti lock light starts coming on. I checked belt and its tight enough. I had autozone do there charging system check and the battery and alternator were 100%. What else could it be. Someone said loose connection but if it was wouldnt it show some sort of issue during the diagnostic? Please help, i hate being afraid to drive me own car. Thanks

The VR is dying, typical of almost all chain store reman alternators. The glowing ABS and Brake lights are classic symptoms.

The on-car test only checks over-charging, not undercharging, and the battery voltage is enough to prevent the tester from detecting failure.

I know you had to buy one PDQ but do yourself a favor and find a local shop to rebuild the existing one. Otherwise like mentioned you'll be back many, many times to AZ before finding a unit that contains an OEM VR in it...
 
Last edited:
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned
Top