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car wont go into gear while on

luis84one

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Aug 19, 2009
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127
Location
lynwood, ca
so ive searched and read threw a lot of threads on this subject and i cant seem to find out whats wrong with my car.. i replaced the clutch on my gcr4 about 500 miles ago with a ACT 2100 with PP, new RRE flywheel, new fork, fulcrum, new TOB, red line fluids, new slave cylinder.. on sat while at a red light i found it kinda hard to put it in gear.. within the next two mins of driving it got really bad.. i limped the car home and ran out to autozone and got a new MC. so i threw it on and tried adjusting it but im having trouble.. im following the jacks transmission video on clutch adjustment, and when i push the fork/slave in with my thumb it dosnt come back out.. could there still be air in the system? i bled the crap out of it.. what could be doing this.. could it be something internally wrong with the clutch..
 

gvr4ever

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Aug 6, 2002
Messages
6,196
Location
central Indiana
Sounds like air in the system. It really takes two people to bleed a system. Unless maybe you have a really nice bleed kit.
 

Jason G.

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Oct 7, 2003
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3,279
Location
Anderson, SC
If the system is in fact bled properly, I'd guess springs on the the hub of the disc. You did say it was an ACT after all.
 

luis84one

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Aug 19, 2009
Messages
127
Location
lynwood, ca
well if i push the slave all the way in with my hand it wont return. so im guessing its not the actual clutch.. am i right?..what kind of bleed kit and where can i get one?..
 

SouthCaliVR4

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Jul 31, 2010
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984
Location
North county San Diego
The one man clutch bleed, Does not work on all cars!! will work fine on galant/dsm.

Get a length of vacuum line that fits snuggly on the bleeder. attach one end to bleeder the other end gets run back to the master, make sure it is submerged in the fluid & that it stay's submerged. now cycle the clutch padal several times, walk away & let the now airated fluid perk all the air out. Check flud level & repeat untill fulid no longer airates. close bleeder remove hose clean up any spilled fluid. Yer-done.
 

SSGdave

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May 31, 2011
Messages
137
Location
San Diego, CA
Quoting Jason G.:
If the system is in fact bled properly, I'd guess springs on the the hub of the disc. You did say it was an ACT after all.



+10,000
 

DR1665

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Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,642
Location
Iowa City, IA
Recently ran into this on 464/1000. About sh*t myself thinking I was going to have to pull the gearbox to re-do the clutch or whatever. For me, the problem turned out to be a sketch slave cylinder. Two of us bled and bled and bled the thing and it would still grind going into gear from a stop. Swapped out the slave and - BINGO - problem solved.

This was particularly crazy, as there had been nothing wrong with the slave cylinder before I pulled the engine. No idea why it failed.

Good luck.
 

luis84one

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Aug 19, 2009
Messages
127
Location
lynwood, ca
while reading through some old threads i saw someone mention a longer rod is needed for the slave when you put an aftermarket clutch.. is this true?
 

Quoting Jason G.:
If the system is in fact bled properly, I'd guess springs on the the hub of the disc. You did say it was an ACT after all.


I thought act finally cleared up the problem. Didn't they have a bad batch or something? I bought a act 2600/street disk in 2003/4 and a friend of mine has a act 2600/street disk that was put in who knows when and neither of them have had problems.

Start with simple stuff first, check the system for air and then check clutch adjustment. I'm thinking it's possible it could be the ball, I've noticed on some the mating surface gets beat up over time and if you put a new ball on then you may have needed a washer under it to bring it back out a bit. Excuse me for the lack of technical term of "ball" but maybe someone can elaborate. Hopefully this is not the issue thought because in order to fix it the trans needs to be pulled. You can check it however by having someone push the clutch in while you view the position of the slave cylinder rod pushing against the other part that I'm not sure what's its called.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif fulcrum maybe?
 

luis84one

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Aug 19, 2009
Messages
127
Location
lynwood, ca
yeah i put a new ball and washer.. im thinking its air.. ima give it another shot at bleeding it. thanks for all the input everyone..
 

Jason G.

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Oct 7, 2003
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Anderson, SC
Double check your transmission to engine bolts too. The one near the slave will especially cause similar symptoms.
 

bazeng

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Feb 6, 2003
Messages
2,520
Location
Melbourne, Australia
If it doesn't return it means you have gone too far on you clutch pedal/master cylinder adjustment. Wind you master cylinder rod back at.5 turn intervals until you can push the slave rod back into the slave cylinder with you hand. Once you get there, you can try and bleed again but I'm not sure if it will make a difference. Did you shim your pivot ball?

A quick fix might be an extended slave rod.
But strange how it was shifting prior.....

You can get bleed kits that fill from the slave with a hand pump.
 

luis84one

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Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Messages
127
Location
lynwood, ca
i did shim the new pivot ball. i bled the system with a clear hose and absolutely no bubbles came out.. then i back the rod all the way and turned it half turns after each turn i pushed the slave in by hand.. i was went through the whole rod and was still able to push it in by hand.. i dont know what else to do.. im beginning to think its internally.. maybe i didn't install the clutch right.. it was my first time doing a clutch job but i researched the job a lot on the the forums.. and im confident i did it right.. as far as the bolts the front ear on the block near the front motor mount broke off a while back so no bolt there.. the rear one is there.. there's a slight gap between the tranny and the block.. maybe 1/8th of an inch.. i know thats not good but could that be enough to cause this problem.. i really dont want to drop the trans again but i guess if i dont have any other choice i will.. i just picked up a 1g tranny and transfer case so i guess if i drop it i might as well swap them out.. anyone have any ideas of what this could be before i go drop the trans?
 

rdomeck

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Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
620
Location
Indianapolis, In.
Are you looking at the steel plate that is in between or do you really have an 1/8" gap? If you have a gap while not pushing on the pedal you probably have a bigger gap when pushing the pedal. Get that figured out......It's more than likely your problem!
 

Jason G.

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Oct 7, 2003
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3,279
Location
Anderson, SC
Have someone push the clutch in while you're looking underneath. I bet you'll see the transmission pushing away from the engine.
 
Last edited:

GVR47111K

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Nov 7, 2011
Messages
457
Location
80022, CO
^^That was exactly the problem with my car.
 

LIV4PSI

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Nov 24, 2011
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O-H-I-O
The gap is almost definitely your problem. If everything was done correctly, there is no reason for a gap. Hopefully you can get it figured out without dropping the transmission again.
 

luis84one

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Aug 19, 2009
Messages
127
Location
lynwood, ca
im beginning to suspect the same.. im pulling the trans out this weekend.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif
 

Jason G.

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Oct 7, 2003
Messages
3,279
Location
Anderson, SC
You're going to want to find a way to get that front bolt back in, it's crucial for clutch operation.

I think someone here fabbed up a way to thread that bolt to the motor mount bracket.
 
Last edited:
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