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Bogging,stalling.:(

rost

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 9, 2010
Messages
136
Location
tarzana,ca
How can a car not be able to last more than 200 miles at a time without something braking or happening is beyond me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif Im not even driving it hard and its not my daily driver.

Drove it yesterday,no problems.Go start it today,barely starts,take it out and it kinda drives fine,untill i make a turn to the main street and start going faster. Rpm goes to 3000 and then it starts bogging out and feels like stalling.I turned around to go home and almost stalled on the light.Im so frustrated its not even funny.Can this thing last at least a 1k miles at a time /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
I did check ic piping,vacuum lines,plug wires,etc. visual.Dont see anything unusual.Havent dug into dsm link to know how to use it yet..Ecu has caps serviced...Does it sound like a fuel delivery problem?

Mods:big 16g,255 pump,980 fic injectors,2g maf,recirc.greddy bov,ecm link 3 lite,eliminated emission crap,blocked egr,3in turboback.Car street tuned by a local dsm tuner Beau,20psi boost.
 
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i would check the O2 sensor and wires, brake booster hose and TB gaskets for leaks. re-check the coil pack and pigtail and injectors. get the data logger on it. I understand you checked the intake but it really sounds like a hole is somewhere.

side note, my talon would do the same thing when my alternator was taking a crap. after it sucked all the juice from the battery, the alternator voltage would fluctuate. causing bogging, surging and stalling.

hope this helps, keep us updated what you find.
 
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Brunoboy

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Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
BISS Screw. Faulty ISC
 

How o test a ISC:

This information was pulled from: http://www.dsm.org/how-tos/tttt/tttt3.html

Ok, the ISC coils look good, what's left?

* If your symptoms sound a lot like mine, especially the part about picking a slightly different idle speed every time, your ISC might still be at fault.
* Remove the ISC from the TB. It is not necessary to remove the TB from the car to do this, but it might help to get a few other things out of the way. BE CAREFUL to not lose the o-ring seal.
* Plug the ISC back into the electrical connector and have a friend turn the car on and off. Don't turn the starter, just flip slowly back and forth from ACC to ON. The ISC plunger should move smoothly in and out as power is cycled. Lightly rest a finger on the tip of the plunger to check for weak spots in the step cycle.
* If the ISC seems to behaving normally, go to step 6.
* If the ISC doesn't move in and out smoothly, but just vibrates in place without making any real progress, then something is wrong. Check the coils again, just to be sure. If they are ok, then find a way to check the voltage coming out of the harness connector. I suspect the best way to do this would be to construct a 4 LED matrix as a DVM wouldn't be fast enough to follow the steps. The easiest way to do this would be to solder a 1K resistor to each of 4 LEDs and stick the LED/resistor pairs into the harness connector. What you should expect to see during stepping is power across the pins in an order similar to this:

1-2 & 4-5
2-3 & 4-5
2-3 & 5-6
1-2 & 5-6
back to 1-2 & 4-5, etc...

* Judging from the shop manual, I would expect to see 6 volts applied to each coil. If one set of pins never seems to get power, flex the harness while watching the LEDs to check for a broken wire. (BTW, make sure to get the polarity of the LEDs right to avoid false alarms...)
 

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
ISC wouldn't cause those problems. He said it bogs and stalls out starting at 3000 RPM. ISC would only affect Idle.

I just had to replace my fuel pump; My car would gradually get worse over a 200 mile stint. Pull out your plugs and see what they look like. If they are grey and dried out looking, it sounds like fuel delivery to me. If your coil pack or some other ignition portion of the system was going back, I'd think the plugs should look more black/wet.
 

Brunoboy

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Joined
Apr 25, 2008
Messages
2,880
Location
San Bruno,CA Home of SFO
true, sorry I associate Bogging and stalling with ISC's automatically lol. What about a bad ECU?
 

rost

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 9, 2010
Messages
136
Location
tarzana,ca
I finally made a boost leak tester and performed a test.Major leak somewhere at the throttle body area.Couldnt pinpoint it,the air goes out so quickly,and i only had 40 psi in my air tank(just enough por 2 tests).Could that be my problem?
Im also going to test the isc and pull the plugs to see how they look.
 

rost

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 9, 2010
Messages
136
Location
tarzana,ca
Carbon Fouled-Soft, black, sooty deposits easily identify this plug condition. This is most often caused by an over-rich, air/fuel mixture.
Check for a sticking choke, clogged air cleaner, or a carburetor problem - float level high, defective needle or seat, etc.
This may also be attributed to weak ignition voltage, an inoperative preheating system (carburetor intake air), or extremely low cylinder compression.

Could be weak inginiton voltage,bad coil?
 

rost

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 9, 2010
Messages
136
Location
tarzana,ca
I know we dont have a carb,i copy/pasted description from cherrod8's link(found wich plug looks like mine).
 

rost

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 9, 2010
Messages
136
Location
tarzana,ca
Used ecm link to do a log,car wont rev pass 3k rpm in any gear.Can anyone help me witt ecm-link log?Thanx
 

steve

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Joined
Sep 11, 2003
Messages
18,897
Location
NJ
Are you getting a CEL? Wont rev past 3k sounds like limp mode for a bad/disconnected MAS.
 

rost

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 9, 2010
Messages
136
Location
tarzana,ca
You mean CEL light?No,no lights are on.
I checked the connection to the mas several times,even unpluged it and pluged back in...i should try my 1g mas probably...
The best description of the problem would be that it feels like a rev limiter set to 3k,and it happens in every gear.
Im wondering,can i attach the log here?
 
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Try a known working MAS and make sure your pigtails wired in correctly. Then get that boost leak addressed. That sounds like an excuse to rebuild your TB and get new OEM gaskets. Report back then. GL
 
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