before I tear the dash apart

[Kibby]

Are there any panels, nuts, bolts or screws I should be concerned with that will or may break? Ive already started to remove parts to begin replacing my front chasis harness and snapped 5+ bolts removing the fender and plastic fender cover so far. Found lovely rust but eh ill flip a coin to determine whether i fix it or not.

 

[quato]

the ones i had the most trouble with were the forward most ones that connect the center console with the lower part of the dash. other than that, i totally forgot about the ones up by the dash speakers until i was trying to figure out why the dash wouldn't come out.

 

[Kibby]

Got an idea on the time frame? Im gonna go off the how to on the forum and need to plan out my day or weekend if its gonna take long.

 

[mitsuturbo]

Make sure you drop the steering column (4 bolts). That's probably what impedes the removal of the dash most. Watch the harness plugs as you're pulling it out. Once you get that far, you really want to take your time and make sure you've got everything disconnected. The rest is easy bolts and nuts to get to. It takes me about an hour or a little less to take a dash out completely. It's pretty simple, really.

 

[Kibby]

Thanks. I figured id ask before I start. Ive had the car almost 2 years now and I dont think ive put 300 miles on it. Previous owner lied about the condition and its just been one nightmare after another. Im hoping swapping this harness will fix the electrical issue then I can put the ic together and drive to find other bugs.

 

[Wookalar]

I like to bag and tag everything, I don't rush either. Take pictures if it helps you.

There is a good walk through for removing the dash on dsmtuners, much of it also applies to the galant platform since they are so alike. Just search for dsm pedalbox removal.

Remove the bolt that holds the steering column end piece (the circular piece with teeth on it) to the rack, remove that bolt completely so it can slide out once you are ready. Also, don't let the column rest on the bolts as you take it out, you will feel resistance and possibly damage threads. I used a typical smaller jack to support the steering column while I finagled it out. It helps to have the center console removed before this step.

 

[mitsuturbo]

There's absolutely no reason to pull the whole steering column. Simply remove the 4 bolts that hold it up, and let it drop down. I've done this more times than i can count. Once the dash is out, put a bolt or two back in finger tight to hold up the column.

I always pull the steering wheel first thing, actually.
Then i pull the cluster bezel and cluster.
Switches in the dash and clock
speaker grilles and speakers
under dash
glove box assy
center console (usually i just pull all the retainers for this and push it back about a foot or so)
hvac bezel, ashtray and related items, leaving only the white control center part and cables hanging there
then on to removing the rest of the bolts/nuts that actually hold the dash itself in
drop the column, remove the dash, making sure all plugs/wires/etc are free and clear and then put the column back up

I probably missed something, but i can't remember at the moment.

 

[Barnes]

Quoting mitsuturbo:
There's absolutely no reason to pull the whole steering column.



Listen to this man!! He's exactly right. First dash I pulled I did it with the steering column bolted up and the steering wheel still installed. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif

Second time I figured out the steering column drop trick and it becomes a MUCH easier job.

 

[Wookalar]

I was under the impression that he was also going for the pedalbox removal, in which the steering column being out of the way helps. No reason to pull the column if you are just removing the dash, dropping it down helped me though and that's when I had it resting on a jack.

 

[Kibby]

Im just removing it to replace the chasis harness. Wires melted in unknown places from the alt pumping out over 15.5 volts so I decided to replace it all

 

[Kibby]

Dash done. Now I need to remove the blower motor, one more bolt then disconnect the ecu. Then its snakin everything back in. Ill be using high temp tape and conductor grease at every connection. To give you an idea of how dirty the connectors are heres a pic. Every connector for the chasis harness was scrubbed with a tooth brush and fined cleaned only at the connectors: this is the replacement one. Sprayed electrical cleaner. Nasty.

 

[Wookalar]

The blower motor entire box does not need to come out, I believe just the motor/fan can drop out the bottom. The actual circular cylindrical plastic fan part detaches from the motor for cleaning. I found this out after purchasing a new blower motor and pulling the old one.

 

[mitsuturbo]

Quoting Kibby:
Dash done.



How long did it take you? It's pretty easy, right?

 

[Kibby]

Labeling everything, being neat and organized id say a lazy hr and a half. Fought with the center console tabs for about 10 minutes. I just need to get to the wiring for the ecu then I can swap. Need some of this stupid snow to melt n need a little more heat outside lol. As long as everything works out ill be reinstalling everything, trimming the bumper and fitting the fmic then race car.

 

[Kibby]

Fml. Wasnt exactly a drop down affair. Broke a piece of plastic off the ac box. Im sure itll still work fine its in the front. Good access to the bolt and wires now. Pending weather ill try to bang it out tomorrow.

 

[Kibby]

For whatever reason I cant get my phone to upload a pic of this connector. Its not the one that clips into the alternator or the ps pump. Looks like a single whitewire and it says amp with a 6 on it. Please help as id love to start the car today.