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balance shaft elim

14u2nV

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Jul 22, 2004
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Agency/St. Joe, MO
Why can't you just cut the rear shaft off, and fill the oil passages with jb weld or silicone? what am I missing? I saw a page that has you cut it, tap it and put a longer bolt in to plug the holes, but why not a more simple approach?
 

Barnes

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Feb 9, 2003
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Richland, WA
That sounds horribly unreliable. Just buy the $8 or whatever OEM stubby shaft and live happily ever after.
 

TylerAdamson

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Dec 26, 2007
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Iowa City, Iowa
Why not just turn the bearing to block off the hole? JB weld and silicone could potentially free itself from the hole and get into your oil pan/pick up and end up somewhere where you don't want it. Tapping and inserting a bolt does seem a bit much though.
 

14u2nV

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didn't say I was gonna do it, just curious. What about filling it with a weld?

Where do you get the stubby that cheap? JNZ want's $60 for the kit, all I need is that piece.
 
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Adorsey

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Apr 22, 2009
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355
Location
mass
I have one in the parts for sale section
click

or you can buy it at autozone. its a factory mirage part or something


*I would sell it for like 13$ to cover shipping and its yours no problem
in the mail in the am
 
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Listen to these guy's please. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif The elimination kits are everywhere and cheap. That's crazy to consider being that cheap to take those measure's and risk's for little gains.
 

Barnes

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Quoting 14u2nV:
didn't say I was gonna do it, just curious. What about filling it with a weld?

Where do you get the stubby that cheap? JNZ want's $60 for the kit, all I need is that piece.



MD098626 from JNZ = $13.23.

The kit includes the front shaft plug, stub shaft, spacer (replaces the sprocket that drives the front b-shaft), and two b-shaft bearings to block off the oil ports if you remove the front shaft. If you leave the front shaft in, all you need is the stub shaft, and the spacer is optional.

Also, cutting the shaft and welding it could either A)Dimensionally warp it or B)Remove heat treatment. I don't know if the factory shaft is heat treated or not. Either way a potential disaster.

So basically for $13+shipping it isn't worth the risk or hassle.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

14u2nV

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Jul 22, 2004
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Agency/St. Joe, MO
You guys take it too serisously, I was just curious. I've already got one possibly lined up, if not I will order one. I'm not cheap, I'll do what I need to, I have just never heard reasoning for not doing these things.
 

Barnes

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Richland, WA
I think people take this seriously because they have no idea if you are serious or not. How can we know? People here don't take that chance so they come down hard on folks who put ideas out like this. One, so they don't destroy their motor and two, so other people don't read this and casually think it is a good idea. So try not to take me looking out for you as me just being a jerk. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

JB weld? Seriously? That's where I'm coming from. Just a bad idea, and some people on here actually don't like to see members blow there cars up. No offense was intended I don't believe.
 

Great for mud trucks and redneck heaps! Not so much these babies. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 

Whoodoo

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Jul 11, 2009
Messages
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Location
Binghamton, NY
Or you can turn your rear shaft for free.
img.php
 

jepherz

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Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
Quoting TylerAdamson:
Why not just turn the bearing to block off the hole? JB weld and silicone could potentially free itself from the hole and get into your oil pan/pick up and end up somewhere where you don't want it. Tapping and inserting a bolt does seem a bit much though.



He's talking about the back shaft, not the front.
 

turbowop

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Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
Quick and easy method is to replace the rear shaft with the OEM stubby and leave the front shaft in without a belt. Cheap and effective. Both my cars are done like this and have been fine for tens of thousands of miles. All you need to purchase is the stubby shaft and a couple of new gaskets.
 
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