Bad axle?

Driving home today my front passenger wheel locked up intermittently. I had it towed home. Drove it into my garage. All 4 wheels spin freely, nothing noticeably wrong. My trans and rear diff fluid spilled out when I took off the fill plugs, but my T-case fluid didn't. I imagine they are all fill to full spec? I took off the drain and there is some in there, I've found that it only requires half a quart.

What else should I look at/take apart?

 

I let the t case drain, maybe an ounce came out.
I filled it and went for a drive, didn't get over 45mph. It didn't lock up, but it makes a humm/rubbing (more of a rubbing) sound under 35mph. Above that it whines, sounds like it's coming from the t case. When coasting in neutral the sounds come and go. It could be a wheel bearing, but I imagine the sounds would stay regardless of neutral or under load. I imagine I did some damage to the t case.

Any thoughts?

 

[jmorri15]

there is really no way of telling without tearing into the t-case and/or borrowing another one to see if the sound goes away then. Its a quick thing to pull it off and i would say that is your best bet. If the recall was never done on your car it could have a leak which would explain why it was pretty much dry.

 

[pauleyman]

Even if the recall wasn't done good luck getting it done now. Tcase is likely fried. They are so cheap now used get another one, fix any leaks and don't look back.

 

Tell me more about this recall please. What needs to be fixed? What else do I need to do this job and what else should be replaced while I'm in there? I want to order all I need today while places are still open.
Sounds pretty straight forward. Any trouble I might run into?

 

[jepherz]

Something about the original front yoke on the driveshaft allowed oil to leak out via the driveshaft. So even if your output seal was good and sealed, oil would eventually leak out of the transfer case, and lack of lubrication would cause them to lock up when enough friction would build up.

 

[DynastyLCD]

clickski

its a re-designed yoke for the driveshaft where it goes into the transfer case.

ever done u-joints? that's all you're doing, really. pull the driveshaft out, remove the u-joint with the yoke on it from the driveshaft side, and replace the front yoke and u-joint.

 

[mitsuturbo]

Quoting pauleyman:
Even if the recall wasn't done good luck getting it done now. Tcase is likely fried. They are so cheap now used get another one, fix any leaks and don't look back.



If the recall was not done, and there is any damage to the Transfer case, Mitsubishi will REPLACE the transfer case with a NEW one.

Furthermore, the TSB states that if the Tcase is EMPTY on arrival, then the technician should replace it as well.

 

The dealer isn't helping me, any other way I can get help with this?

 

[turbowop]

Buy this:

click

Then find a good used xfer case for $75 or so. Install and be done.

I should add that the dealer "did the recall" on 1051 waaaay back in the day. That apparently consisted of checking for leaks, not finding any, and giving the car back. A few years later I ended up having to replace that yoke myself due to a leak. Luckily, it's cheap. I don't like the dealer f***ing with my car anyway. Better to do it yourself, IMO.

 

Thanks! Anything else I should get while I'm in there?

 

[turbowop]

If you want you could purchase three of those recall yokes and harvest the u-joints out of the extra two to use as replacements in the other two u-joints on the driveshaft while you have it out. That's the cheapest you'll find replacement u-joints and they're OE factory to boot.

 

5 bolts are out of the case, the d shaft is out. What's holding it in?

 

[turbowop]

Friction.

 

How do I drop it?

 

[turbowop]

It should slide off the output shaft without too much effort. Use a large flat blade screwdriver as a pry bar to get it started if need be. Watch your head when it slides off. Sometimes it breaks loose fast, and it ain't light.

 

Should I grease the output shaft?

 

[turbowop]

A little antiseize may help future removal.

 

Installed with redline heavy shockproof fluid. The whine went away, but there is still a hum. For the most part it is always there when accelerating, and less there when decelerating. It's not obnoxious, could be confused with tire noise, but these are new and not aggressive tires. And the fact that it's not always there. It sounds like it's coming from the rear. I do have -2.5 degrees of toe on one side. (New eccentric bolts are on the way) Maybe that has put too much stress on the wheel bearing? I know that I will have to have new ones pressed in, but wonder just how much of a pain it is to pull the spindles off? I don't see any problem with the front, but in the past I have had trouble with rears (ended up cutting e -brake cables)

Any thoughts?

 

Maybe the center support bearings? They felt fine though, damn I need help...