Auto trans, a good investment?

I'm seriously thinking about installing a auto trans (turbo trans) in my VR-4 1991. But first there are a few things I want to know about the auto trans before I begin to purchase the necessary parts for the transformation.

First of, I want to be able to use the VR-4 as a DD so it wont be modded to hell. It will (at least for now) only be modded with the EVO parts (560cc, #399 mas and cyclone intake) with of course a keydiver chip to compensate for the mods! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Is the auto trans a good trans to use as a DD? Does it shift good and nicely in city driving? How is it on the highway, does it shift good on the highway (in higher speeds) when overtaking another vehicle? Is the auto trans a reliable trans? Is the auto trans known to break? Does the auto trans shift smoothly?

 

[fuel]

If the W4A33 in the G-VR4 is anything like the rest of the 30 series 4WD auto transmissions I've driven the shifting is alright, but I would say they are not very reliable at all, and probably wouldn't handle in excess of 250-300hp for very long. I broke one in a 140hp RVR, put it that way.

 

Thats to bad /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[Mark]

I speak from experience.. I have one of the origonal vr4 auto swaps.

I ran a stock 1g dsm trans a full season a few seasons ago. Multiple 550+ awhp dyno runs, 20+ trips down the strip, drove to and from track and daily drove it never missed a beat. I even through nitrous at it. If you keep it cool enough it'll last.. Heat kills these trans's. throw a shift kit in it and a upgrade converter and your set.

The swap is not direct you will need many parts from a auto car but it works very good I love it. You will need to either wire in a tcu or figure out someway to shift it however. I use a ratchet shifter w/a makeshift tcu type box my friend made.

 

[dsmer06]

The dsm auto transmissions are very strong as long as you keep them cool, and can be made to shift well.

 

we just put together an auto awd dsm. it dyno'd at 479whp. tranny was a stock rebuild with a 5000rpm stall converter. no issues with it at all so far

 

[fuel]

you'll need the auto rear diff as they often run a 3.307 ratio.

 

This sounds great since I really want to convert to an auto if the trans will hold the power/tourqe!

How is the auto trans on the highway? Is the rpm high when driving like say 65mph?

Quoting Mark:
throw a shift kit in it and a upgrade converter and your set.



What is this "shift kit"? Is it so that I can shift it manually? And where can I buy this upgrade converter? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[dsmer06]

I don't recall the rpms on my old dsm being outrageously high. It would cruise at 70 just fine.

I'd recommend a way to increase line pressure.

 

[fivestardsm]

Quote:
What is this "shift kit"? Is it so that I can shift it manually? And where can I buy this upgrade converter?


Google is your friend...


click

click

 

oh thanks alot! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[JNR]

Is a different car an option?

I don't mind autos in some cars that have good torque, but to convert it seems like a losing battle by the time all is said and done. Things like pedals, different starter, different instrument cluster (to do it right), maybe a different ECU (to control lockup function of torque converter), and not sure on the physical placement if it moves the T/C (different driveshafts) and so on. It can be done, but unless you're looking for consistency at the track [which the vr4 is not the ideal drag car] or your left left is cut off, I just can't see going with an auto, but that's me.

And yes, heat kills the auto transmissions. If you're running an oem converter, you may be alright with an auto radiator that has a cooler built-in, but I personally rather not mix the two fluids' heat transfers within...The higher the stall speed, the more heat (slippage) you will encounter. However, if the engine is not built (i.e. stock cams), then an oem stall or slightly high ~2k rpm would be more than enough. The key to a good engine package is matching the converter to the cam to the heads; everything else is just ancillary equipment.