......and here we go again. DSM wiring gremlins

[1793]

Before you say it: Yes, I've searched. I even used google to search site:galantvr4.org "d*mn, it's broken again." =P

I drove the car for an hour or so one night, parked and turned it off and a few minutes later it wouldn't start. It just clicks once; the starter doesn't turn over.

Thus far, I've replaced the starter and the battery. I've also chased the voltage from key to starter: tested the ignition, the ECU starter output (pin 71, evo8 ECU), the + side of the starter. Unfortunately, I only have a test light so all I can verify is that voltage is making it to the starter.

At this point, I'm thinking it must be on the ground side of things, but look to you guys for some guidance to hopefully save me some headache and/or time /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Noobsauce]

Need to test your grounds and start cleaning connections.

 

[gvr4ever]

A voltmeter is really cheap. It sounds like it could just be something as simple as a failing alternator to recharge the battery. A good auto shop can test both the battery and alt for free. With a multipurpose voltmeter, you can just measure the battery while someone tries to start the car and see if it's even putting out enough juice. Amps shouldn't go below the cold cranking rating of the battery.

Did you have to remove the intake manifold to replace the starter? I'm sure someone some place has had a starter fail on them, they aren't actually prone to failing.

 

[1793]

as mentioned above, the battery and the starter are new. I just put both in. Yeah, I had to remove the intake mani (as well as the strut bar, throttle body & fuel rail) to get to the starter. What a pain!

I was leaning towards the ground all along, but figured there wasn't any way it would just suddenly go bad. Since my first post, I've ran a ground from the existing (installed by PO) "ground dist" spot on the fender well to the starter bolt closest to the front of the car. Similar result as earlier, however, this time i get a series of fast clicks from the starter area, but the solenoid never actually kicks it out to turn the starter. I will try cleaning the area under that "dist block" tomorrow.

If you're wondering, the ground side looks like this:

Neg Terminal on Batt -------Bolt through fender well.
Bolt through fender well ---Bolt through Firewall
Also, fender well-----------Starter bolt at front of car

 

[1793]

grabbed a multimeter today, too. Now what the heck do I do with it? LOL

 

[toybreaker]

pm me your phone number, and I'll walk you thru some things to check.

 

[James]

I'm confused as to why the Intake Mani is removed to replace the starter... Unless you have Trex arms and mountain sized hands ...

 

[Okayplayer]

Agreed. The starter should have enough slack on the harness to allow for the unit to be removed then disconnected. I once did it in about 10 minutes in a parking lot. Also check to see if your grounds to you block and chassis are good. The alternator should be tested next.

 

[JoeDaddy0]

Hi,
I was having similar problems untill recently. I also had irradic idle 8-900. Idle really soared and dropped during warm up. We hooked up my battery to another to jump start and noticed the idle went dead smooth. Replaced the Alternator and not the computer and all recieve necessary current. I went through some local ripoff saying it was the starter etc and lost a mitsu starter for a generic Nappa variety. Im sure it will be good for a couple years more but the alternater is definitely Mitsubishi. I've got a feelin it is what it is. Battery drains usually take all night or days while driving a car with no alternator charging will definitly drain a battery in a couple of hours or less as I was experiencing with our GVR.

 

[rgeier11]

I pulled this off of Mitchell for ya.