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Alternator issue

mcbride89

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2012
Messages
133
Location
Belmar,NJ
Well today the car took a crap, I took the alternator out and had it tested at a reputable alternator rebuilder and it all checked out okay. The wire running to the pigtail were pretty jacked up so I snipped it off and rewired it. Still the same problem. I check the alternator relay(?) under the good. The diode and resister checked out fine on the mutlimeter.. Am I missing something? It's getting pretty old fixing little sh*t like this -_-

Ant
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
Details. What is it doing? Readings?
 

raptorWagon

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2007
Messages
2,827
Location
Oak Harbor, WA
Quoting mcbride89:
Well today the car took a crap, I took the alternator out and had it tested at a reputable alternator rebuilder and it all checked out okay. The wire running to the pigtail were pretty jacked up so I snipped it off and rewired it. Still the same problem. I check the alternator relay(?) under the good. The diode and resister checked out fine on the mutlimeter.. Am I missing something? It's getting pretty old fixing little sh*t like this -_-

Ant



Yes more details! Voltage readings?
 

mcbride89

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2012
Messages
133
Location
Belmar,NJ
Sorry guys, with key in on position I've got 12.5 volts. When on it drops. Lights on it drops to 11.58 .57 and so on. Before I left today I didn't get a chance to check at the alt. the battery is brand new and I put it on charge so tomorrow I can start fresh again. I'll be checking at the alt tomorrow as well.

Is there in alternator fuse under the dash? I'm thinking the field isn't getting the 12 volts.

Ant
 

acidrumz

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2004
Messages
117
Location
Stp, Mn
Engine running you should see voltage near 14.
Hows your belt tension? should be on tight with some deflection but not riduclously tight.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
I have had alternators not charge on the car buy test good. These alternators are very touchy and since they see a lot of heat from the exhaust I wouldn't doubt its fried. Oem is the only way to go.
 

ApexHunter

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2007
Messages
1,992
Location
Marysville, WA
^ I've had similar experience.

I went through 3 parts store reman's. 2 Duralasts from auto zone, then 1 from a so-called expert rebuilder that a buddy referred me to. Galant killed the first two Duralast's outright. They tested dead on the bench. The 3rd would test OK on the bench but couldn't hang in the engine bay. I also suspect heat based on the progressive (yet quick) nature with which they all died. For the record, I was and I am using the lower heatshield.

Finally i got a grungy looking, god-only-knows-how-many-miles OEM unit from a buddy. Threw it in a year ago, no problems since. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Last edited:

jnava

Staff member
Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Messages
2,073
Location
Arlington, Tx
I had this dilemma a few years ago when I first bought the gvr4. I had one of the local zonerilley's and it died quite quickly. Then i paid for the Bosch and that one died too. I realized it was a heat related issues. So they replaced the dead Bosch since it was under warranty and I've had no issue for the past 2 years.
 
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