Alright, maybe somebody with a little more experience can lend me some knowledge

[2000GTX]

Hey guys,

I've got a N/A Canadian Galant, and she's having some small issues.

Every once in a while, after it's warmed up, I'll come to a stop and the idle will freak out. The RPM will drop down to 400-600 and the car will shake and sputter and then the IAC will kick in and bring it back to 800-1000.

I've done everything I can think of to try and fix the idle issues that I've had with this car.

I've replaced the IAC, the TPS, the MAF, I've cleaned the throttle body, I did the wires and plugs about 6 months ago.

What else could it be? My next target is the ERG valve, I'm probably going to end up blocking it off.

I also thought maybe it could be something to do with oil pressure? I've got a new oil pressure switch to put in this Friday when I change my oil as well.

Well if anyone has any tips or ideas as to what it could be, I'd greatly appreciate it.

 

[5OF2k]

It could be your EGR valve sticking open, that'd basically cause a vacuum leak and make it run funny. Have you done a fuel filter by chance?

Definitely easier to start simple!

-Jake

 

[2000GTX]

I have not done my fuel filter only because all the things I read say that if the fuel filter is bad, that you'll lose power going uphill, and that's never been an issue.

So I could place that on the list as well for sure.

 

[5OF2k]

If your fuel filter is bad, you'll lose fuel pressure significantly, not just uphill.... I dont even want to know who told you that... It can also cause intermittent stuttering and misfires, as well as sustained lacking performance characteristics.

FWIW, your fuel filter should be changed every 15-20k miles. The contaminates and particles it keeps out of your engine WILL build up and eventually restrict flow, which will in turn create a lean condition, which is obviously no good.

-Jake

 

[misterfixit]

You might have a bad warmup air valve in the bottom of the t-body. It's set up in parallel to the isc. If it goes out of spec the isc doesnt have enough available authority.

Rich


Quoting 2000GTX:
Hey guys,

I've got a N/A Canadian Galant, and she's having some small issues.

Every once in a while, after it's warmed up, I'll come to a stop and the idle will freak out. The RPM will drop down to 400-600 and the car will shake and sputter and then the IAC will kick in and bring it back to 800-1000.

I've done everything I can think of to try and fix the idle issues that I've had with this car.

I've replaced the IAC, the TPS, the MAF, I've cleaned the throttle body, I did the wires and plugs about 6 months ago.

What else could it be? My next target is the ERG valve, I'm probably going to end up blocking it off.

I also thought maybe it could be something to do with oil pressure? I've got a new oil pressure switch to put in this Friday when I change my oil as well.

Well if anyone has any tips or ideas as to what it could be, I'd greatly appreciate it.

 

[2000GTX]

Alright, well then fuel filter is definitely on the list of stuff to do. Any idea where are they located in our cars?

And I don't even know how I would go about fixing a warmup air valve.

 

[raptorWagon]

The warmup valve you speak of is the FIAV isn't it?

 

[2000GTX]

I think that is what he is referring to, yes.

 

[MellowVR4]

Fuel filter is right behind the intake manifold, a little lower to the left. You'll probably need some line wrenches for the fuel line. But it pretty easy if the line come out with ease. Overall not that hard

 

[2000GTX]

Thanks man, glad to hear it's not someplace horrible.

 

[misterfixit]

Yup, FIAV.

Take the bottom off the throttle body.

1, Take off the ISC
2, Knock out the tin cap over the FIAV.
3, Heat a pan of water to 60-70c
4, Pop it in the pan of water with a thermometer.
5, leave it a minute or two. It should close up between 60c and 80c (you can't blow through it)
6, If it needs adjusting wind the round plug in or out to get the orifice just closed at 70c ish
7, Reassemble.

Hey presto Idle will be alot more stable.

It works off a wax pellet (literally like a t-stat) and can go bad the same way.
If you are curious to see the wax pellet in action you can back out the black plug and remove the fiav completely. You can then heat the bare body in water and see the peg move in and out.

If you isolate it, and it is lazy you can bodge it to improve it as above till you get another sorted out.

Rich