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A couple questions

1. Whats the easiest way to remove the front cv shafts/axles, obviously remove tires axle nut two nolts holding axle to the block, just wondering if its easiest to just remove the the axles, ive only done the splitting lower ball joint method, or is there an easier way on these cars?

2. The hidden 12mm bolt ive read about(not quite sure where its located ), does this need to be removed before i can pull the motor or can i do it after i got the engine out when im separating the trans?

3. How hard is it to remove the fuse box side of the harness, the shell i'm going to be using is completely missing the small alternator fuse box and looks all hacked up so i'd like to use the one from my rusty galant that I'm using the engine from, but could use a little advice on how to remove it.
 

Armitage

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Messages
715
Location
Herndon, VA
1) If you unbolt the strut from the wheel hub, you should gain enough clearance that you won't need to touch the ball joint. Sometimes you can just pull the axle right out, other times the ring is tight and you need to get a little leverage on it with a prybar or use a slide hammer.

2) Not sure what bolt you're talking about.

3) Sorry no idea!
 

rdomeck

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Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
620
Location
Indianapolis, In.
1. The way I always use for the axles is to remove the three nuts at the top and swing the struts down while pushing the axle's in towards the trans. If you pull the two bolts at the spindle/strut you mess with the alignment and will have to have it aligned.
2.The bolt is above the transfer case that you access from under the car. And just because I hat when people refer to bolts by their head size....It is an 8mm bolt. The head takes a 12mm wrench. It could be a 13mm if it has been replaced. This is why you shouldn't refer to bolt by their head size.
3. This will depend on you. How confident are you with wiring? Could be simple, could be a pain.
 

turbowop

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Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,971
Location
Yakima, WA
I separate the strut from the spindle. You don't need to get it aligned unless there are aftermarket camber bolts in there, and even if there are, you can mark them with a Sharpie so you get them back in the same spots. I've done this probably a hundred times. Never had my car realigned afterwards and never had an issue.
 

Wizardawd

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Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
1,323
Location
Franklin, NC
Same with separating the strut from the knuckle. Avoids damaging the lower ball joint boot.

Wiz
 

Thanks sorry i never responded got busy with home remodeling."joys of home ownership". Anyways i got the axles out just pulling the two bolts on the strut gave me plenty of room to pull them took all of 10 minutes, as far as alignment goes i'm throwing in a manual rack so has to be aligned any how.

Sorry i just referred to the bolt as ive seen it called haven't tried got to pull it yet but that give me the location thanks a ton for that.

Got the harness out of the donor car but that was pain, ended just comparing the harness to figure out what they and made a little sense just need to fix like 3 wires. Not too bad better than pulling the fender.

Had another question though i can see how everything would work the way its wired but is it ok to bypass that small fuse box that sits next to the larger one? Kind of looks like someone started to tuck things but only cleaned up some of the wires.
 

holeshotmoe

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Joined
Apr 7, 2005
Messages
1,291
Location
MD
IRT your last question, assume you're talking about the diag port:
img.php

Would try to keep everything stock until you have your recipient car running. Anyway, you're going to need this if you connect an auxiliary tuning system like ecmlink.
 

Sorry no the box is next to the Big fuse box in the engine bay chasis harness, the little cover on small box, Reads,fusible link and has abs fuses under it, no longer Have abs so no big deal, then it says raccord fusible and underneath is a 100 amp for alternator i believe and the other says belt. The one with 4 fuses is the box that has been bypassed. Tried to upload pic from phone but wouldn't work.

Id love to keep it stock as possible but its also going automatic swapped so thats a whole other pain to deal with. (Manual trans leaking fluid. Not the axle seal, and bad grinds)
 

holeshotmoe

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2005
Messages
1,291
Location
MD
Gotcha. You can eliminate it but you still need to provide the fusible link for the alternator for safety (for one, fire prevention). This assumes you're ditching the auto belts and ABS. There is another one but can't remember what its for. Here's a LINK with pictures of a fusible link box relocated and replaced with something similar. I don't particularly like that one but you get the idea.
 

Gotcha, though i didn't do any of this just was previously setup by one of the old owners just wasn't sure if it could run without it. Im just trying to fix all the stupid things previous owners have done like wiring etc. before i swap out motors/trans. I was going to to swap harness's out but went to pull the bottom fender bolts out and it just happens to be the only rust on the car is right under the fender bolts underneath the car and dont want to break them of, so i have to use the existing Harness.
 
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