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978 Balance Shaft Issues

To give you guys some history, I purchased this beautiful Galant in February 2009. Since then a number of updated parts grew on the list. I'm trying to preserve it stock wise for daily driving. I'm a technician, so the labor is my experience. It had oil, coolant, and flex exhaust leak I had to address. I replaced almost everything from water pump to various gaskets and pulleys. New fluids from engine to rear differential. Not a single maintenance wasn't covered. I wasn't taking any chances. Now that you know my galant is being kept well, the issue now boils down to the balance shaft. I replaced the balance belt with a brand new belt and 1,000 miles later... Broken belt left with no groove marks or teeth. Apparently enough to jump the timing that was aligned properly. It cracked the oil pump which will be another part I'll have to purchase this week. How could this have happened? I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and install a balance shaft eliminator kit? I have a new rebuilt head that I'm not willing to sacrifice unless I know what method to take. All this money I've spent on parts alone could have gotten me a crate motor already. What shall I do??
 

SmoothCustomer

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 6, 2008
Messages
3,319
Location
Lexington, KY
YES, DELETE YOUR BALANCE SHAFTS! If you can give me one GOOD reason not to, maybe I will change my mind but next time that broken balance shaft belt will get tangled and break your timing belt, I promise.
 

Yes, I am trying to delete the balance shaft... I've already broken the balance belt, and jumped my timing off enough to bend some valves again. Before I re-assemble new rebuilt head, rather not have this situation occur again. I have couple questions to ask.

1) Which is the best eliminator kit, and who to purchase from?
2) Without removing balance shaft, could u just leave in without the balance shaft belt?
 

1990ggsxnj

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2008
Messages
525
Location
Blackwood, NJ
No experience with shopping around for the kit, but ones with the stub shaft are better since you don't have to modify the rear shaft yourself. You can keep the front shaft in with belt removed unless you're really concerned with the GVW of the car. Leaving the belt off will most likely increase the vibration you feel because more is being made with only one shaft spinning, though no real argument has been shown to prove factually that it reduces the reliability of the engine. If you want less rotational weight (and yes those shafts can and HAVE siezed, taking the oil pump with them and causing a whole hell of a lot of other problems)than removing the Rear shaft is the best bet.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
Down and dirty in the car is to replace just the rear shaft with the stub shaft, and leave the front in. Then you don't have to do any bearings in the block.

I had a similar thing happen earlier this year on a 2.4. I did a timing belt, and about three weeks later one of the bs bearing spun. Destroyed the oil pump and crank from the metal it sent through the engine. The balance shafts felt fine when I did the TB, but I learned my lesson, at least on a higher mileage car.
 

So one option I can atake is replacing the oil pump and leaving the balance shaft in without the belt? I've seen the eliminator kits with the stub shaft, bearings, and freeze plug. I'm not sure which method I want to take. Weight reduction is not my main concern. Just wondering if it's ok to just remove the balance shaft belt and tensioner pulley along with it. With the shaft inside stationary, I won't have to worry about anything conflicting with it inside the engine? Thanks for the replies so far.
 

Struc

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2008
Messages
764
Location
Oconomowoc, WI
Yes, it is perfectly fine to leave the FRONT balance shaft in, without the belt attached, and just pull the rear shaft when you do the oil pump, and replace with the stubby shaft.
 

1990ggsxnj

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2008
Messages
525
Location
Blackwood, NJ
As Struc said, Yes, but only the FRONT shaft which is the one RUN by the belt you will be taking off. Since there will be no belt, there will be no rotation. It will just sit there "stationary" as well as keep those oiling holes from spitting out too much pressure. Plus this is the easiest solution for the front.

The REAR shaft must come out if you plan on leaving the belt off. Reason being, the belt "phases" the two shafts together to help counter the vibration of the spinning assembly (pistons and crank). Leaving the belt off and shaft in will cause more vibration to be felt. OEM Long shaft off, stubby shaft in, belt off (to stop front shaft from spinning), call it a day.
 
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