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802/1000 Diary

KiNgMaRtY

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 8, 2008
Messages
835
Location
Corona, CA
Quoting ghostinthevr4:
G is right car looks great you've done a lot of great work to it your set up looks similar to my old set up variations I have an aluminum radiator similar to the one you have.

Keep an eye on your radiator and your silicon coupler, if you do a lot of driving and a lot of pulls that tab is going to start making contact with your coupler.

Happened to me I had a fp18g, HX-40, fp3065 and now a HTA3586. One of the best mods I ever did was change that upper intercooler pipe to a one piece hard pipe.

No more damaged coupler and no more piping hitting the radiator while racing or hard pulls, and that's with poly ureathane mounts all the way around.



Thank you and than you for the advise. If the radiator tab does contact, I set it up so it will touch the tbolt clamp and not the coupler but I will look into potentially having a hard pipe made for the radiator.
Are you going to make MOD this year?
 

KiNgMaRtY

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 8, 2008
Messages
835
Location
Corona, CA
It been some time since I updated the thread. I installed the ECMlink Speed Density cable, tapped the upper intercooler pipe and installed the IAT sensor, installed the MAP sensor, and the E85 fuel sensor. The wiring is all done for when I get tuned on SD I just connect the ECM link cable to the OEM MAF cable. I also installed the SS fuel feed line, Bosch battery, and massaged the IC pipe coming out of the turbo for much better fitment.

Last week I installed a Turbo Performance Products FP manifold blanket to try and keep some heat away from the charge pipe and the rest of the engine. You can literally touch it after a long run by hand.

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image005.jpg


image004_1.jpg



Went to a local Mitsu meet a couple months ago and took a few shots with a locals Evo III replica. It is a full Evo III conversion.








 
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KiNgMaRtY

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 8, 2008
Messages
835
Location
Corona, CA
802 also hit a milestone some months ago. It hit 200,000 miles and I wanted to make it a fun and a memorable milestone so I took her on a nice mountain drive so she would turn on it.

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moduleunknown

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 30, 2008
Messages
193
Location
Elk Grove, CA
Are these bolt on?
For the most part, yeah.

For the rear, you'll need SCE adapters to make the lower mounts a bolt on affair.

To make the front bolt on, you'll need to ditch the Ohlins camber plate for an E39A specific plate. For my install, I used camber plates from BC (and it looks like that's what I see in the pics above). I found that the Ohlins hardware wasn't quite long enough when using the slightly thicker BC camber plate, so I ordered new hardware from McMaster-Carr (M6, 1mm thread). I don't recall the length I used though...

You'll need spacers/shims for the front lower mount when using evo struts or coilovers since they're a little bit wider than our knuckles.

Not too bad.
 

KiNgMaRtY

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 8, 2008
Messages
835
Location
Corona, CA
Exactly what he said. The Cusco Camber plates would have worked as well but I sold them with the KW's.
I ended up ordering BC camber plates and just used the metal plate with the Ohlins pillowball hardware. Quick trip to HD or Ace for the longer bolts and it was good to go.
 

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,460
Location
SoCal
Exactly what he said. The Cusco Camber plates would have worked as well but I sold them with the KW's.
I ended up ordering BC camber plates and just used the metal plate with the Ohlins pillowball hardware. Quick trip to HD or Ace for the longer bolts and it was good to go.
Are these sold new still? If so, where, and what are the part numbers?

How to they ride and perform?
 
Last edited:

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,460
Location
SoCal
Are these sold new still? If so, where, and what are the part numbers?
Nvmd, found em. Thanks for the info!

 
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