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4G63 engine build

Dasith

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
98
Location
Melbourne, Australia
hi everybody...

i have a 1990 E33A 4G63 SOHC Galant and im thinking of swapping a 4G63 N/A DOHC engine to it...
so i found a car with a DOHC engine..this will be a 1st Gen DSM 6bolt 4G63 N/A if any of you guys are in USA.
but i want to rebuild that engine upto a fast naturally aspirated engine. don't wanna put a turbo on a FWD car


and the plan is to build a Fast 4G63 Naturally Aspirated engine...
and im thinking............

New intake upgrades (seen lot of peolpe put Evo III and Evo Viii mafs.. so maybe one of those)
new Full 3inch exhaust
ported head

VR4 injetors
performance valves + retainers + springs
performance bearings
performance Cams (272 maybe)
adjustable cam gears
forged pitons
forged con rods
cometic head gasket
ARP main + head studs
balance shaft eliminator
engine management system


now am i going over my head?
or am i being a super newbie?

i found a of sellers on ebay for some of those mods and the list below is a quote i got from one of them

click

Custom High Compression Pistons with Eagle H Beam Rods $899
ACL Race Series Bearing Kit $179.99
Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit $55
ARP Main Studs $75
ARP Head Studs $115
Cometic Headgasket
Brian Crower SS Valves $280
Brian Crower Springs/Retainers $215
Brian Crower stage 2 272Camshafts $385
Fidanza Cam Gears $199

are these too expensive?
anyway i found that some of those stuff i could get for lower price at some other sellers
anyone know a trustworthy seller?

im a first year mechanical student
and i showed that list to my lecturer.. he said lots of people go over their heads when they start putting money to an engine doing unnecessary things (probably a hint to myself /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif )

what do you think guys?
and also, Do parts from a 4G63T engine fit a 4G63 N/A engine? which parts would be incompatible?
asking cos there are lots of performance parts to be found for 4G63T but not for 4G63 N/A

any advice will be much appreciated... and if im being a noob and posted a stupid post, still BE NICE. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 

Dasith

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
98
Location
Melbourne, Australia
not gonna race it ... just want a nice car with a reasonable amount of power.... with nice street manners.. and an occasional dual with a buddy...
 
Last edited by a moderator:

89Mirageman

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Joined
Jul 5, 2006
Messages
2,502
Location
Stantonsburg, NC
I would find a 6 bolt 4G64 from an early 90's expo or late 80's galant and start with that. Grab a set of pistons from a 94 galant GS or go custom. Toss on a DOHC head and a nice header. I've always wanted to do a na dohc 4g64 swap on a colt as a daily driver. I would think that you could get 170 hp or so from it. I believe the 94 galant gs came with 160 hp from the factory.
 

Dasith

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
98
Location
Melbourne, Australia
thanxx...

Galant was dropped from australia on 1992 i think... so the 94 Galant GS you're talking about must be the 7th gen Galant from 1993 - 1996
ill look in to finding a 4G64..

cheers
 

89Mirageman

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Joined
Jul 5, 2006
Messages
2,502
Location
Stantonsburg, NC
The 94 galant gs has a 7 bolt engine, I would look for a 6 bolt. Some early hyundais had them too.
 

belize1334

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Joined
Nov 18, 2003
Messages
3,316
Location
Bozeman, MT
If I was looking for a peppy n/a 4g63 then I'd definitely stroke it and go for the biggest overbore that you can buy pistons for. Bored out to 88mm the walls might be a bit thin for a big power turbo but for n/a they should hold up fine and that'll put you in the 2.43L range. You'll probably also want a pretty high compression ratio. 10:1 maybe? Then I'd probably run a cyclone intake manifold. But be careful on choice of cams. Turbo cams have different characteristics then n/a cams. Also, 3" exhaust may be too big and actually impair power. As for hardware... I don't think there's any reason to look for arp unless you're looking for high rpm. The OEM hardware is quite durable especially if you're gonna be below 200whp which is a safe bet.
 

mountaineerjeff

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Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
1,155
Location
west virginia
if you wanted to go NA beast, which I have considered, you could use a stroked crank in a 2.4 block and get at least a 2.6 out of it. then use something like 14.5:1 CR pistons. the stroke drop the cr down to something manageable but it could still be much higher than what we normally run. you could even try independent throttle bodies and beat the hondas at their own game of high power NA setups. id love to see a 230-250 hp NA 4g63. we already own the turbo scene so why not prove that the 4g63 is the best 4 cylinder ever at everything.
 

Dasith

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Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
98
Location
Melbourne, Australia
hi
Whats independant throttle bodies?
 

mountaineerjeff

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Oct 21, 2008
Messages
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Location
west virginia
its when you run a throttle body for each cylinder. you effectively have a 4 throttle bodies with their own single runner into one intake port. then all 4 are tied together with a single throttle cable


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Last edited:

Dasith

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Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
98
Location
Melbourne, Australia
owkay..... got it...

seen things like that in some oldschool muscle cars but never knew what they were...

cheers..

Dasith
 

mountaineerjeff

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Oct 21, 2008
Messages
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west virginia
yea more work than what its worth, for a turbo is soooo much cheaper and easier, but when you are sticking to NA you have to squeeze power anyway possible
 

belize1334

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Nov 18, 2003
Messages
3,316
Location
Bozeman, MT
Quoting mountaineerjeff:
the stroke drop the cr down to something manageable



Added stroke will INCREASE CR, not decrease it.
 

mountaineerjeff

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Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
1,155
Location
west virginia
yes it definitely will. my bad. I was getting it mixed up with the other thread on destroking. but yes it will increase the CR. which would allow you to get a high CR without paying for completely custom pistons.
 

Dasith

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Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
98
Location
Melbourne, Australia
thanx both of you guys.

So do i 0nly need the 4G64 Crank? Or do i need the block + crank too?

And then put the 4G63 head 0n the 4G64 block?

Cheers!
Dasith
 

mountaineerjeff

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Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
1,155
Location
west virginia
well you can do either. but i recommend doing at least a 2.4, with a 1.8 head to up the compression even more.

if you want to start using custom stuff then go with high CR pistons and a stroker 2.6 crank. even then you still need a 4g64 block. make sure you stay 6-bolt. either out of the summits, or the g4 block from the hyundais
 

belize1334

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Joined
Nov 18, 2003
Messages
3,316
Location
Bozeman, MT
Basically just start looking at stroker kits and keep in mind that w/o a turbo you're gonna want to ask for a higher compression ratio... maybe 11:1 or so.

You're gonna need a 100mm crank (stock is 88mm) or possibly bigger but 100mm is OEM mitsubishi so that's probably the cheapest and easiest to come by. Then you'll need either a 4g63 or G4CS block (6-bolt). Then you'll need a rod/piston combo. You might consider looking into a long-rod setup since n/a power is usually made at high rpm and strokers tend not to like to rev as high. Then G4CS block is 6mm taller so that allows you to run rods with are 6mm longer for the same piston which inproves rod/stroke ratio. You can also get pistons with raised wrist-pins (typical for stroker) which allow you to run normal rod length (in 4g63) or even longer rods (156mm in G4CS).

I recommend that you just good "4g63 stroker" and "G4CS stroker" and keep reading till you've run out of things to click on...
 
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