4 bolt install/4ws removal, w/ pics

[Jon]

Have you fixed that transfer case leak yet?

 

Quote:
...Now, my green car, 123k mi, everything 4WS related was replaced or refurb'd by a previous owner at about 110k. That car handles like none other. ...Here's what I really want to know, what goes wrong in the 4WS system that causes the cars not to handle well? My black car? Scary above 80.



When you turn the rear wheels in the direction of the turn, you will increase understeer...simple geometry.

Perhaps your green car's superior handling can be attributed to good overall maintenance including shocks, sway bar end links, ball joints, bushings, etc. And tires can make a HUGE difference in handling so you might consider what tires are on the various GVR4s you have driven as well as whether or not they were properly inflated (which can also make a big difference).

 

Im not sure if its ok to post here.. so i guess ill just post and if it gets moved/deleted i know..

Well ive disconnected all my low pressure lines.. Now im at the stage of the high pressure lines.. Ive cut mine out instead of removed them at the join (17mm and 14mm connection) because i could not get a wrench onto it..

Now ive tried to weld them shut BUT.. it doesnt weld up.. cos theres fluid still in and it all hasnt come out..

1. Is there any other option besides welding them shut? ie... follow both high pressure lines to the rack and then put a bolt in the rack in place of the lines?

2. If i have to weld them shut.. how do i go about it.. tig/mig/arc/oxy? (ps how do i drain the ps fluid)..


3. other suggestions?

Thanks for your help!

Jon

 

Started this project today. I got all the lines out and plugged the rack where the lines went. Just for reference the thread is 14 x 1.5. I used a oil drain plug with a washer as suggested.

Thanks for the FAQ

 

[G]

Also don't pull one from a awd automatic dsm.

They are a 3.307 not 3.545 like the manual trans.

 

[GVR-4]

I just did the AWS removal about a week ago and I wanted to point out that the oil pan plugs used to plug the front rack don't work. Or at least they didn't work for me. Even with copper crush washers, they leaked like mad. That connection is not designed to seal on the face where the copper crush washer makes contact.

 

[Muskrat]

I think it's hit or miss with this, as some people swear by it, others have problems. Myself, I'm using one oil dran plug and one I had welded shut because the plug wouldn't fit. I'd say welding it would be the bes bet, and it's so small a job if you go to an industrial place they'll probably do it for free.

 

My question, as newb as it is... When the rear rack is removed, how come the wheels dont wander back in forth, im assuming that tey arent locked in place, basically a scaled down version of the front.

I blew a rear p.s line, so will be doing this job soon

 

[slugsgomoo]

With the rear rack removed, the rear suspension converts to the T/E/L style "active toe" and allows it to flex. Essentially, the rack only puts pressure against rubber bushings for the 1.5* worth of angle.

If that answers the question.

 

[sleepyvr4]

I was told you needed to cut some threads off one of the bolts to make them work, and you do if you are relying on the crush washer making contact to seal the hole, as the bolt that needs cut bottoms out before the crush washer and head of the bolt make contact. Some members of the board have not had luck trying to seal it like this.

I didn't cut the threads down, i simply gobbed up both bolts with 5 minute JB weld and it is leak free.

Easiest successful block:

Use oil pan bolts and JB Weld to block off 4ws lines

 

I've recently decided to switch to the 4 bolt rear and eliminate the rear steering. I took my rack out the front and had it rebuilt when I installed that group buy frt & rear sway bars because it was leaking. I can't remember (I'd assume so) but I thought the inside of the ports going to the lines for the aws were inverted flare inside the openings. Has anyone tried a Hydraulic supplier to see if they have a plug that will match the inverted flare to seal properly?

 

[GolfBall]

Quoting slugsgomoo:
With the rear rack removed, the rear suspension converts to the T/E/L style "active toe" and allows it to flex. Essentially, the rack only puts pressure against rubber bushings for the 1.5* worth of angle.

If that answers the question.



so you with the rear steer removed the rear wheels are still moving 1.5 worth of angle. that seems bad to me. cant you lock it down somehow?

 

[moduleunknown]

Yes, you can eliminate the active rear toe.

click