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2G shift knob on 1G shifter assembly

BoostedAWD91

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Mar 1, 2007
Messages
2,937
Location
Danville,Pa
I am using a 1G shifter assembly and i just bought a brand new 2G shift knob and i dont know if i got one that was threaded to long but when its tight its not close to being straight. Its pointing at around 2'o clock and if u try to use it where its straight its very loose /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif Ive never had this problem before, anyone else ever run into this?
 

turbowop

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Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,972
Location
Yakima, WA
I have a new 2g knob that tightens correctly on my 1g shifter in 1051, but is 180degrees off on my Mofugas shifter in 503. I use a DSG delrin knob on 1051 so the 2g knob sits on a shelf.
 

Rausch

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Joined
Dec 21, 2004
Messages
12,049
Location
Cleveland, OH
Thread tape is your friend /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Wrap the shifter a few times and try again. Eventually you'll get it right and it'll tighten down aligned correctly.
 

boostedinaz

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Joined
Apr 20, 2006
Messages
4,085
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
When I had 1101 I had the same combo and mine was slightly off as well but not that much. I just gave it the old gorilla grip and turned it the extra 1/4 turn and it fit perfect.
 

BoostedAWD91

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Mar 1, 2007
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Location
Danville,Pa
yeah i have tried some Teflon tape and it was still off plenty. i guess ill just try taping that crap outta it and see if it gets it close enough
 

Dan D

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Joined
Feb 27, 2001
Messages
1,171
Location
Brownsburg, IN
I ran into this too. I cut off some fuel hose that was the right diameter to fit into the knob to make a compressible spacer. Just cut to fit a few times until I got the right length to allow it to tighten up nicely in the right position. Little bit of loctite 222 to help keep it in place and it’s golden.
 

I use a 1g shifter and boot that comes up over the top of a stock GVR4 accordian boot base. The combined with the 2g knob seemed to bring the look down a bit.

93481-0-0-0.jpg
 

Whoodoo

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Jul 11, 2009
Messages
927
Location
Binghamton, NY
My 2g weighted knob was also off on the short shifter I made (3kgt shifter). I also made a compressible spacer, but i made mine out of a piece of the rubber from my old knob. When I got the new knob on I was curious to see how the old one was made. Its a cast plastic part with another casting of rubber on/through it with leather over that. I didn't quite get the length right, but a couple of pieces of electrical tape solved that. There's plenty of ways to do it, but one thing's for sure: threads don't always line up, so you just have to make it work.
 

curtis

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May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
You can take soap or wax and rub on the threads of the shifter assembly, wiping off excess.... then take a stick and wipe some JB weld on the inside of the knob tighten to where you like minus 5 degrees or so and let dry then when you tighten it up will be dead on. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

Over kill but would work I'm sure.
 

Curtis,
Probably a stupid question, but what's the soap for? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

Muskrat

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Jun 13, 2004
Messages
2,107
Location
Lexington, KY
Keep the epoxy from adhering to the threads. It's basically a release agent. The goal is to make the threads 'tighter' with the epoxy, not glue the shift knob to the lever.
 

curtis

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May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
Exactly they sell release compound spray on wax that dries to atom thicknesses but is high dollar. I bought some WWII developed german epoxy to fix the lead screws in my mill and a kit with wax 30cc's of epoxy and sheilding puddy mixing sticks etc was $75 bucks. I fixed only the y axis and now 2 years later wish I would have done the x and z at the same time but wasn't sure if it would hold up. Now the y has no backlash to speak of think 4 decimal points. I can test with a dial indicator and sometimes it reads or doesn't and my eyes stat to get blurry. The z and x has maybe .008 to .01 mm Which is fine and the computer compensates and you only notice on the read out but I know its there and drives me nuts.

If anyone ever needs any for a cam cap repair, high tolerance fit, fancy machined piece etc this stuff is what you need, self lubricated and has zero air entrapments and can be machined like steel or aluminum. Really crazy because you pour it like water or oil. I guess its about like 5w30 when mixed then by the next day is like steel. I would actually like to build a complete firearm out of it just to say I did but you would spend thousands on materials. This mixed with carbon fiber and kevlar could stand up to anything. All the engineering specs are here you can download the manual and read The Guy there actual fixed his friends daughters car with it , she had a burned up cam cap and they repaired it then years later she sold the car and it was still going strong.


I'll probably buy another kit in the summer and do the z and x and may do the shifter in the car at the same time. Just my lead screw used only about 6cc and I was left with a syringe tube full of extra.
 

Street Surgeon

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Mar 3, 2004
Messages
941
Location
Omaha, Nebraska
Guys this is soooo simple, buy a few thin wave-lock washers from lowes (usually like a 5 pack of the super thin ones) and just put a few in there.

Add one at a time and then tighten the shift knob. Keep repeating this until the shift knob is held in place tightly and facing the correct direction. The height that these will raise the knob isn't noticeable and just keep adding them until it's straight (takes like 1 to 3 usually). Done deal.
 
Last edited:

Dan D

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Feb 27, 2001
Messages
1,171
Location
Brownsburg, IN
Quote:
thin wave-lock washers



I tried that first (along with just some flat washers too). Problem was that you put the washer into the knob and then they fall out or lean on their side when you flip the knob over onto the threads. I got pissed and chucked the washers across the garage after a couple tries. I went with the fuel hose because it stayed put when you flip the shifter.
 
Last edited:

Street Surgeon

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Mar 3, 2004
Messages
941
Location
Omaha, Nebraska
Put the washers on the shifter base first, then put the knob on over them /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

Whoodoo

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Jul 11, 2009
Messages
927
Location
Binghamton, NY
OMG why is this thread still going?

Conclusion: shift knobs don't always tighten up straight, so use whatever method works best or is more convenient for you.

Tried and true methods: spacers inside the shift knob, epoxy to tighten up the threads, nuts or washers to take threads out from the bottom, but do whatever works

done and done.
 
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