1st and 2nd gear grind

[turboren]

I just finished (well, like 3 months ago) installing a new clutch (ClutchNet Red 2X PP with Fiber Carbon disc) in #224. I also had to swap out the tranny because I let a "friend" drive it. I had a few used spares in the garage, so I swapped in a 90 GSX tranny. I kept my 91 shifter and swapped shifter cables (actually modifying the 91 cables by chopping about 1/2" off of one of them and cutting new threads as far down as I could go... whoever said you can use the same cables for 90 and 91+ is full of it) so I could have a short shifter.

After making the proper adjustments so I could get into every gear, I started the car up and tested the new clutch . Unfortunately, it wants to grind (crash, really) going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse. If I allow enough time for the input shaft to spool down, then then it will kind of go into gear, but not without some resistance. 3rd, 4th, and 5th don't give me any problems. I haven't taken it out for a test drive; all the testing was done while the car was on stands (it still is).

I checked the clutch release arm to ensure it was in the right place before I installed the tranny, and I thoroughly bled the clutch slave cylinder. All the bolts holding the tranny to the engine are in place and tight. I can't think of anything else that might be a cause.

My guess is bad 1st and 2nd gear synchros. Anybody want to second that opinion?

Nothing worse than putting everything together to find out something else is broken. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Thanks,

Ren

 

[GSX_TC]

Yeah prob is the syncros man. I just dont understand why reverse is grinding for you though

 

[cheekychimp]

I can't really offer much help on the clutch issue Ren but damn it's good to hear from you man. I was going to make a post the other day because I was wondering what happened to you. How are things?

 

[turboren]

Paul,

Good to hear from you! Life gets in the way of things sometimes. I've been pretty busy with work, and really haven't been messin' with the Galants of late. I sold #1571 (white one with AMG bumpers) to my ex's son, and he's really happy with it. I've got a lot of time off work now (3 weeks) and am trying to get things going with 224 (green) and eventually 733 (black one in the garage... still on stands). I also bought myself a turbo'd 96 Miata, which took 1571's place as my new favorite car, but unfortunately, the coolant return hose from the turbo broke while my ex was driving it and it overheated. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif Good thing I have so much time off work.

How have you been?

Ren

 

Not an expert by a long shot but I had an idea when I read this post. I recently had a daily Toyota Corolla that would slam into 1st/2nd (somtimes grind) and always grind into reverse! I thought it was the syncros but it turned out to be a worn master cylinder. Maybe you could try pumping the clutch and see if it gets worse?

Maybe that helps

 

[4doorboost]

did you see if the clutch is dissengaging all the way, put the clutch in a rev it to 7k if the car jumps foward ur clutch isnt dissengaging all the way

 

[GSX_TC]

Try extending the rod on the clutch slave to see if that fixes it

 

[turboren]

Master and slave are brand new. I've watched the slave push on the release arm while someone else pushes the pedal, and everything seems to be working like it's supposed to.

I don't have an adjustable slave rod.

 

[SouthCaliVR4]

How about adjusting the rod at the master cyl? Check the pedal assembly for wear.

 

[turboren]

I just checked the pedal height, clevis free play, and pedal free play. They were all a little off. However, I adjusted everything back to factory specs, and I'm still having the same issues... 1st, 2nd, and reverse grinding. So, I went and adjusted the clutch master pushrod out as far as it would go, and it still grinds.

I didn't install a lockwasher/shim under the release lever pivot as I have done in the past because the lever seemed to be in the right position as mentioned somewhere (I thought is was in VFAQ, but now I can't find it) in that the arm should be able to be pulled to less than the midway point by hand (I think... I can't remember now) and it shouldn't contact the bellhousing. I may pull the tranny and install a lockwasher anyway just for good measure, because I had no such problems with 1078 after the first clutch job I did on her.

I did check the pedal assembly according to instructions here: click and it appears that the pedal assembly may be worn. I guess I will order a new one and find out.

Ren

*EDIT*

I got the release arm info from RRE's clutch page, at the bottom:
click

 

[turboren]

Well, after looking at 1078's trans, there's no need to shim the pivot ball, as the release fork is already in a better position.

I called Shep, and the guy there said the GVR4 clutch pedal assemblies are unique, i.e. AWD DSM is not the same. I would assume they would know for sure, since they do this all the time, but has anyone ever used an AWD/FWD turbo DSM unit in their Galant?

Ren