I'm not getting them anymore. I made an order for a few hundred and did not get one afterwards.

You guys keep posting these codes and I've saved a bundle. So here's mine:7770393969595395 expires April 15, 2018

Hello org,Today, I'm hawking the parts from a dismantled GPU based Bitcoin mining rig I ran for a little while. Everything is in like-new working condition in original packaging and all accessories. PM me if interested.Parts: ASUS M5A97 Motherboard with AMD FX4130 3.8GHz quad-core...

Please clarify on "the tri-state area". Pretty much everyone lives in a "tri-state area".

Does anybody make a good (and affordable?) torque wrench that can do in-lbs and up to, say, 50 ft-lbs?I'm looking for a good tool to do the medium-low duty torque settings for things like trans cases, intake manifolds, etc. I already have an SK 1/2" wrench that starts at 50 ft-lbs that does...

from Craigslist: link 1991 vr4 gallant awd. This is a limited edition 52/2000. This is for the rolling shell no motor, no trans, no gas tank. The car has LSD 4 bolt rear with axles. Coustom chromoly drive shaft. 2.5in exhaust that fit a stock manifold. 225123 miles. In the pictures the bumpers...

I've been using DreamHost for 3 years now. I started on shared and eventually moved to VPS. They are a dramatic improvement over the previous host I had used, hostmysite.com. I used them because at the time I was working part time, so I got a feel for what common practices are.1) Shared...

Quoting steveGLS: OMG. Score one for me in the Tech section?

Coolant boiling? What mixture are you running?!

So, which problem do you want to fix first?While you're figuring that out, we'll be looking at:

Could be the top bearing on the intermediate shaft being pitted and makes noises under lateral load. If so, you probably won't find much of any shrapnel in the fluid. Sounds like a rebuild to me.196k is amazing for an original transmission! Mine ate 2nd gear by around 110k.

It is not a reverse synchro. It's called a reverse brake.Synchro implies it needs to synchronize input/output. The brake simply slows down the input shaft as reverse gear shifts into place. Otherwise, suppose you just started the engine. Then, you quickly depress the clutch and shift...

I guess I'm out of the loop. They're all v-band designed. I hear they're pricey though.

Were the nuts not staked?

B/S costs extra. Next time let me know and I'll include it.

What about all the different sensor harness plugs and jacks needed?

Along the same lines as speedo gears, I've often wondered why nobody makes different gear sets for DSMs/GVR4s. I've heard of people swapping in output shafts from various special edition Mitsu cars, but nothing has been readily available. Beings that I now own a Mustang with 3.55's, I thought...

My GVR4, while I owned it, was as dependable as I made it. I agree, the more you beat on it, the more you should expect things to fail. This is no different than any other old car.

Are you certain the clutch is fully disengaging?

Strange, because I remember replacing my 2G accumulator on my 97 GS-T with a ss braided line and noticing better clutch control.

The coolant sensor may be ok. For my Galant, the wiring was faulty causing negative temperature readings and maximum enrichment. The car was blowing black smoke. I crimped on female spade connectors to replace the harness plug.

Well, the car is now technically sold. It's now sitting with its new owner who'll continue the modification path I had started.

Yes, the car is technically still available. I have an interested buyer hopefully coming to pick it up this week. But, if the deal falls through, you still have a chance. PM me if you're interested in taking a look at it.

You should be able to just use a USB cradle instead of the serial one.

Quote:I agree with you BTW they should have replaced it.. But its one of those things were they said you did not supply it so we reused the old one .. I can see thier point but if you are a repair shop you know those always have to be replaced... IMO anyway.This is a missed opportunity...

This shimming stuff has been discussed in the past to infinity, but I'll abbreviate.If you're running a new clutch and flywheel, you ain't gonna need it. I even tried it and last time I had the trans off, I removed the shims because there appeared to be wear on the clutch fingers from the...

I'll stick with the tried and true method of holding my drink in my left hand/steer, shift with the right/turn signals. It's probably a good thing I don't text and drive.

You've discovered the... Golding Ring of Destiny *lightning* *thunder* Put it back or be cursed with years of broken transmissions and transfer cases.

I've been running RockAuto rotors and Porterfield R4-S. Very economical performer. They don't dust up your wheels or tear up your rotors.

Yes, there is a bearing, but more importantly there is a seal that is only serviceable from the inside. So, I guess he's right.

Have you considered talking to a welder about repairing this? The bolt hole tab looks fixable. Not real sure about the input shaft sleeve.

Can't figure out what we're supposed to be looking at. Can you doodle where this thing is?Off-hand, there's 3 connections off that bundle: The alt harness and positive connection, power steering sensor, and oil pressure sender.

Quoting Sw4n3e: do any of you guys out there have a spare trans bellhosing that i could buy?Not making any assumptions here about your ability, but if you're not aware bellhousing swaps on a DSM trans are not like on a T5. It's an integral part that requires a complete teardown.

Reverse has no synchronizer. So, since you say it grinds every time, that means the input shaft is still getting torque eventhough your clutch pedal is depressed. This lands the problem squarely at the clutch system. Check hydraulics for leaks at the master or slave. Check the inside of the...

I've ordered from JNZ in the past.

I agree. 15psi is easy on the motor, but it's pushing it for fuel. You didn't mention timing belt tension. Is the tensioner new? Is the belt tensioned properly on each side? Do the cams turn freely?

Has anyone tried out removing them? Does it look ok?

The good: The only rust I've found is the lip under the front of the hood, which I plan to repair. No leaks, runs clean, no oil/coolant smoke. Drives straight; I just had it aligned a few months ago. Inside is clean; everything works, power windows/locks/sunroof/mirrors, heater/fan...

Thanks. I've owned the car for 6 years and I think it's time for a change. I've been wanting to build up a classic muscle car for a long time.

It's a hard decision but I've decided I'm putting up my car for sale. I would prefer it go to good hands of a forum member.Here's the specs. I also have a long list of upgrade parts on the shelf that I'll be soon posting in the parts for sale forum.1991 White 275/2000 in good condition...

It comes with header bolts, which seem like a downgrade to me. Also, haven't I read somewhere that you shouldn't use stainless fasteners in aluminum because of corrosion?EDIT: Duh, those are turbine housing bolts, nevermind me.

It is worth having a skilled craftsman repair an ECU with leaky caps. Jeff O fixed mine back in 2004 with acid damage to a significant portion of an injector driver trace, and it's still running smooth to this day.

Along with 7000mi oil change interval recommendation...

Good idea on the etching. I've heard a lot of good things about POR-15.Looks like their starter kit is exactly what I need.

Good tips, thanks. Yes, I did notice the sealer doesn't actually cover the side edges of the roll. I guess everyone should check this spot for rust.

Sounds obvious, but since it wasn't mentioned: Make sure the input shaft and 1st gear are a matched set to ensure the teeth mesh.

The years of driving without an upper manifold heat shield has finally taken its toll on my car. Now it's really time I fix it.Anyway, I noticed that the underside of the hood lip has been damaged by expanding seal sealer and rust about 30% along the front edge. It seems that the manifold...

+1 on stock bolts.For important stuff, I only get OEM replacement bolts so I can be sure they're the right size, pitch, material, etc. They're almost all cadmium plated (not zinc), which lasts longer and the goldish finish looks better than zinc. If you wanted to keep up appearances, I'd use...

What's wrong with the transmission that it needs replacement? Chances are, the damage was localized only to the transfer case since the lockup happened at relatively low speed.