It's called tradition...value it

Just wanting to get a feel for what's out there currently...My old BB 60-1 is finally too far gone - I'm in need of an easy partial transplant to keep 689 on the road.I need a Garrett turbo (that fits the same old BEP bolt-on DSM housing) for a decent price.It would be nice if it had...

^^ The ECU ignores O2 at WOT as far as I know (open loop). It only watches it during lower load, lower throttle, lower RPM combinations (closed loop) to set fuel trims.Your flickering/intermittent CEL sounds like what happens when the "coolant temp CEL" value is exceeded by the coolant temp...

Quoting 4G632NR: This is pretty nice to bad am a PS3 player... Also gran turismo 4 i believe the had the galant vr4 too. And now in GT5 they have a 97 talon to bad is only the esiIf I am not mistaken, GT5 has the Galant VR4 as well

It appears as if the hose adapter screws in and out of the opening...?

I've got a cyclone setup that will be going on 689 when I get the time and $$$ to make things happen. It flows something like only 1 or 2 CFM less than a stock 1g manifold up top, but the improvement in velocity down low when the short runners are closed is gonna be worth it... just my $.02...

soo... is VTEC boost dependent?

I got a flower of some sort... a big one...

my clutch did this exact thing one day when leaving work... the slave cylinder seal blew and leaked fluid out of the rod end of the slave cylinder. Pull off the boot to check for fluid.A new slave cylinder and a thorough clutch system bleed solved the problem. Make sure the fluid level in the...

make sure the idle switch isn't holding the throttle open a touch more than it should... this is a common stop-gap fix for a bad ISC system that I have run across...if you need an intake and idle checklist let us knowgood luck!

^^^

The base timing is set via grounding the timing adjust terminal and, using a timing (strobe) light from the ignition on cyl#1, turning the CAS until the mark on the crank lines up with the 5deg mark on the lower timing cover.ECMlink can only tell you how much the ignition timing is being...

Is your throttle cable too tight?good luck!

Your symptoms sure did describe an intake leak. Good luck with the repairs!

There are also horror stories out there about running an aftermarket billet pulley - just get another stock replacement pulley/damper if yours shows any uncomfortable signs of age.

OK. Getting '93 Eclipse GSX rotors all around, and Galant VR-4 pads all around - I'll report back on how they fitThanks again guys!

OK. Wasn't sure if there was any difference in the rotor offset or whatever it's called.The calipers are the same, though... right?Thanks

689 has had a 5-lug conversion on it since I got it, and had decently new brakes... that was in 2008.The brakes are now needing attention before it is reassigned to semi-daily driving status again.So when purchasing rotors, do I need to get a set for a '93 Eclipse GSX? or does there need to...

Quoting gvr4ever: Just when you think a GVR4 is reliable....

are you running a "cyclone" manifold?

I just pressed mine in with a vise and lube as well, went right in with minimal fuss...I personally can't see why dividing it in half would be an issue since the bracket squeezes it together, but they might've done it for some reason.

so shiny... GLWS

^^ good call - everything looks very professional - any specific type of LED unit going in the high beam spot?

Yes... sooo many possibilities for clutch system malfunction here. Your described symptoms just scream "hey... the clutch is dragging"Hope you descover the issue soon!

mine is a modded 1g unit - works just fine and isn't as much trouble as it seems.The walbro that came on 689 seized on me because of a destroyed filter sock... be sure it's not the pump.

taken by a friend... in "readers' rides"

^^ that is what DSMs are for

There's no real pre-tuned settings in ECMlink, but it does allow you to change and tune various things about engine operation that you would not otherwise be able to. Out of the box, it is configured to be plug n' play with the factory setup, retaining almost all stock settings and...

As it is said... "Verily, if thou desireth to make for thyself an omelet, thou shalt breaketh a few of thine own eggs"cabin comfort engine stability

Welcome!Be sure to go through maintenance items and weak points before attempting to increase power, or some nasty things may rear their ugly heads. Common problem areas include (but are not limited to) boost leaks, excessive turbo shaft play, timing and balance shaft belts, and other various...

Welcome! - glad to see you're starting off on the right foot!This is the best place to be for Galant VR-4 enthusiasts and tinkerers alike - so much info and so many knowledgeable people who frequent these walls.get to know the search function well... use quotes with + and - to narrow your...

... aliens ...

Some people use prothane front & rear mounts and stock trans & side mounts...The front & rear mounts are what control most of the engine "bucking", and they're attached to the sub-frame and front crossmember, not directly to the body... apparently leaving the trans and side mounts stock rubber...

according to ASA...input shaft gear - MD743980 intermediate shaft gear - MD743319it also says that the tooth count is 21/34 (out/in) ... that makes .6176 does the evo3 have a taller final drive?so in a gvr4, is it shorter or taller?

If you're not comfortable rebuilding something that's going to be turning over 100k rpm, have someone familiar with turbo rebuilds do it for you... it's fairly simple, but you should always err on the side of experience when it's something you'll be asking a lot from.25psi is actually quite a...

moment of inertia?

Thinking about getting rid of my current heap for some cash to put toward this... I've had some offers, so I'll PM you if this starts to get real... still discussing it with the wifeGreat looking specimen! - GLWS!

The original valet key for 689 will not even lock the glovebox, so maybe your key was the original, just too worn unlock the rarely-moved pins in the glove-box lock. Just a thought.I'm wondering this because the only "original" keys I have are a hardware-store copy (the original is gone) and...

what do I win?

25psi on an evo3 16G? That seems to be pushing the limit as far as mass flow goes... maybe its just me?The smoke you describe sounds a lot like oil smoke.What kind of oil feed+return are you using for your turbo? The smoke you're describing could still be the turbo. It can be easily...

Sorry to hear about all of your trouble... In my experience (relatively little, but still) loosening the head bolts starting at the ends and working inward (backward from the install torque pattern) keeps the head from lifting one end and pinning the other end head bolts with more tensile strain...

^^ pretty sure he was referring to "o-ring"ing+1 compression numbers

"somewhere" does no good as a description for the many knowledgeable peeples here trying to help you... "the stupid thing" is an understandable vent for frustration, but please remember that a build (for anything) is only as good as the parts, know-how, workmanship, and care/responsibility that...

Didn't DSM's have2 wires for their oil pressure sender? one for the gauge and another for the dummy-light?maybe check it for voltage while the engine is running?

yeah, the rubber comes out much easier by burning, but you still need to cut the inner sleeve that the rubber is attached to.. I just soldiered through without burning and used plenty of cutting oil for the inner sleeve (WD40). It didn't take long..Then you can use the vise to press the new...

I vote the half-car trailer... up to 3 more passengers

the hacksaw method works great if you're patient and careful... used it myself.The idea is to chuck the mount in a vise, slip a hacksaw blade through the inside of the mount, tighten the blade back on the saw, and cut out the majority of the rubber. Then carefully cut the metal sleeve around...

GLWS man!

oil pressure switch wire? or is that yellow?