I have the engine harness sitting in my garage now so I am going to clean everything and see if I can figure out where my problems are. I have messaged the guys over at Sheridan and I will be ordering the ECU and Engine Kits.

I have so many documents I might be able to build the car from a pile of parts, lol. I keep checking on both Ebay and Performancepartout but I'm not super confident another 30 year old harness will not have issues as well. I am sending the ECU over to the ECM Tuning guys so they can look it over...

Tell me I am crazy or not,So I keep fighting with old wiring and today when I started the car after cleaning the injectors and changing plugs I have a bunch of sensors that worked a few months ago and don't work now. The IAT, TPS and Coolant Temp sensors all now don't seem to be working...

I've been looking for a replacement seal for mine, do you by chance have the link to where you got it?Thanks man

Hey ManI got furloughed and it has given me time to try and figure out what is wrong with the cooling system on my car, looks like I have a pair of bad resistors, a bad fan and a bad relay. Do you have any parts off those old cars that might help me?Thank you

Hey ManI got furloughed and it has given me time to try and figure out what is wrong with the cooling system on my car, looks like I have a pair of bad resistors, a bad fan and a bad relay. If I could get your fan and any other parts of the cooling electronics you might have that would put me...

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So I have been trying to figure out why my IAT sensor is only showing -40 degrees, it has been a problem since I started going through everything to get my car back onto the road. I have narrowed it down to what I believe is something in my ECU. I replaced the old HKS IAT with a brand new GM IAT...

If I can find a 22 spline trans then I may take you up on it.Thank you

I need to get my car back on the road, its been 6 years since its moved under its own power. I need a 23 spline trans or a 22 with a t-case shipped to Dallas.Thank you

Is the car over in Gaithersburg? I need a trans and tcase and im checking with a friend that might want the car.

Can you post 424 of 1k to the list. I have had it for the last 4 years.

undercoat paint should work.

looks like an amazingly clean car, in its day it was a supercar. More horsepower then a Ferrari 348. It is worth the money if it is mechanically sound. If i had the money I would love to buy it.

Yeah its not that heavy I would just have to figure out how to protect the wind during shipment.

I am open to any offers. Im sure someone needs a good set of 550's

i got offered $23 shipped on the badge and a trunk is $40 at crazy rays so I guess $60 for the trunk with the badge.

I have an offer on the MMC badge so that is going to be taken off the trunk. I know someone needs a set of 550's.

sure. how much do you want to contribute to the cause of making me less poor?

didnt i get my wingless trunk from you.? I removed the lock and transfered it to the wingless trunk. I would like to get $100 but at this point i would take a bag of chips. the trans going out on both my cars and my wife losing her job means i need all the money i can get.

Hey guys make an offer. I had the transmission go out on my DD and my Galant so I really need some funds.

I had an awful experience with them as well. Over a month and a half to get a rebuilt head. Then the one they sent me was a 1g off a 7bolt so I had to drill out the headbolt holes.

no rust but the paint was sanded flat.

The trunk lid but it is de-badged except for a chrome MMC on the top left. I have no idea what its worth so make an offer. SOLDI have some RC550s that I replaced with larger on my car. They have brand new O rings and I would like to get $150 for these.

our transmissions have two different diffs built in. a center and a front. it doesnt matter how the front diff is set up, the viscous center diff should still send power backwards. I had a front axle break and i was still able to drive the car because it was sending power to the back.

Quote: Aren't you glad you didn't pull the transmission first? I would still pull the trans to figure out what the problem with the VC is. In my experience it should drive with a single blown axle.

it would be really hard to have both the tcase and one front axle not in. maybe the transmission is not tight to the engine or the engine is shifted towards the passenger side but other then that unless the trans is f'ed then i would say clutch

I would bet on something clutch related. I would have said on of the axles not in all the way, but the car will drive with both front halfshafts not in, because of the AWD sending power backwards.

if you pull all the underhood solonids and fuses and check the lines running to the ecu harness, i have a known good car if you need to barrow any pieces to see whats up with yours.

its two what look like stock pusher fans mounted in front of the condensor. Ill have to try burping the system again.

So the car will get up to temperature nice and quickly but will keep climbing up to around 226º. The fans will cycle on and off but they will not start before around 210º-215º and it will not pull the temps down below 215º. I have a 3inch think intercooler and ac blocking the radiator. I have a...

Figured it out. it was a stupid mistake, the cas was 180º out of postion.

Ill have to check but they seem to fit really snugly. Heres where I got them years ago and Here are some Identical Ones

I attached two different logs, one if from a few months ago when i had rc550's installed i took the car a mile to go get a tank of gas. the other is from trying to start the car today. Heres the list of modifications i have on the car. 2.3L 272 regrinds 255lph fuel pump fic 850cc SD setup...

r is just stands for the radial construction of the tire. with many high performance tires there will also be directional markings on the tire however the r is only for the construction

The car looks great. Oh and its a good thing you live a few states away because Id kill for that hood and the rear wiper. Lol

me too. i started with all the externals and havent been able to drive the car for a year and a half because i had bad rings. now its 2.3L and running well.

i dont argue that forged seems a little extreme for a build. but i would suggest from past experience to work bottom up and start by going through then engine internals before spending all your money with bolt ones. and as was said earlier once you are in the block spend a little extra and over...

i would suggest building certain parts beyond but i disagree with 5OF2K's choice of parts to overbuild. i would say do engine internals the best you can afford. the bolt on like injectors and front mount are pretty cheap and easy to install anytime. look at doing all forged internals and making...

heres a quick rundown of what ive spent 4300 car 2200 built trans 2800 2.3l shortblock 800 head and cams 400 turbo 150 4 bolt rear 300 link v3lite 400 intercooler and piping 2000 various small parts (thats most likely on the low end) total 13350 but on a good note its still cheaper then a new evo

as long as the threads are the same and it seals any filter will work. however i wouldnt leave it on nearly as long

i decide to go with the 4spider and keep power steering after driving a laser (with manuel steering and a 4 spider) and a talon (with power steering but a welded diff). for me it was way too much effort to haul the car around.

heres the link , i would say buy a paper copy but money is tight so getting the car running takes first priority, im sure 2000 pages would cost a pretty penny

i have em. i can upload it to my googledrive and give you the link

it completely replaces it. link will send a narrowband signal to the ecu so the cel doesnt come on.

it being seized you wont be able to remove the calipers.

you can cut the cables. it should only be locking the back wheels. all you'll need once you figure out the problem is a new cable

yeah i saw it. shouldve done more reading into the company. im very rarely on tuners and when i searched on here i didnt see anything bad come up.

back to the searching ive found using google is much better type in your question then site:galantvr4.org so it should look like cyclone intake manifold dsmlink site:galantvr4.org

Well a 2g is going to have small intake runners like the cyclone in the closed position, the head studs are 11mm so without drilling out the stud holes it won't just drop on. You'll also need the 2g intake manifold. To make the gvr4 head work on the 2g you'll have to get the block trapped for...