A search on youtube found this, I guess this is it ?? clickgreat cheer when they level up with the BMW

[quote name=MuffinMan7580Quick, easy, and redneck way of trying to free up the injectors is to tap them with (lightly and carefully, use your own judgment here) an extension, screwdriver, or whatever you have access to, to get a little shock into whatever gunk is in the injector. Personally...

Quoting thruarod: Did you replace the CAS with the timing mark lined up? Might be silly I know, but I have been tinkering with DSMs for 10 years and only learned that the mark existed there months ago.I'm not sure I did. As I removed the CAS I noted the orientation of the tongue that...

Quoting Coltsfan: Seems like you have it pretty well narrowed down. Have you checked for injector signal with a noid light? If you have blinking lights, then it would be time to clean or replace the injectors.As I mentioned previously, I used a Led and a 1k ohm series resistor as my diy...

Quoting G: Well then you need to check all 4 injectors to make sure they are working. They may need to be cleaned. The baskets could be clogged from sitting so long.Not sure how the baskets could have become clogged while sitting ? I have heard the injectors have very close tolerances and...

Quoting MellowVR4: Sounds like it could possibly be the CAS sensor, not sure if the clutch position switch would cause it not to start. Take the CAS out and spin the shaft to see if you can here the injectors firing while the key is on the on position.I took the CAS out and I removed the...

The tank was not full of sludge, as far as I could see looking at the bottom of the baffle box and through the cut out in the baffle box to the rest of the bottom of the tank it looked clean and free of sludge and sediment. Even though I had been cranking the engine and running the fuel pump...

Fuel pump and strainer are brand new. I got more fuel out using the syphon than by removing the drain plug. I was shocked to find the drain plug was about 20mm above the lowest point in the tank. To get all the fuel out via the drain plug I would have had to raise the right side of the car to...

Quoting MellowVR4: Sounds like it could possibly be the CAS sensor, not sure if the clutch position switch would cause it not to start. Take the CAS out and spin the shaft to see if you can here the injectors firing while the key is on the on position.DSM logger shows crank sensor pulse is...

I obtained a can of Aerostart. I removed the intake hose to the intake manifold, held open the throttle and sprayed heaps into the intake manifold. Reconnected the hose, went into the cabin, turned the key and cranked the engine. First it didn't fire at all, but I repeated this spraying into the...

The starter has always been working perfectly and is still working perfectly when I use the key so that means all the connections are clean.Please forget about the starter motor, it has nothing to do with the subject of this post.

From the circuit diagrams for the starter in the USDM manual, I should be able to force the starter motor to run just by having the battery connected and applying 12v to the starter motor solenoid spade connector, causing the solenoid to pull in and bridge the contacts inside the starter motor...

My car did not come with a clutch switch from factory.

stock GVR4 Car has been sitting for years working on my ownYears ago car had been running fine, then not far from home approaching stop light, pressed in clutch and engine started to die. I think I had to keep reving the motor to keep it running. I managed to drive it home and got it parked...

thanks for the reply. Still not sure where it is. By meter panel do you mean the speedometer, tacho cluster, inside the cabin?

I'm trying to fix a crank but no start fault. I'm working on my own and I need to be able to crank the engine from the engine bay. I can't get a clip lead attached directly to the solenoid on the starter motor itself. Is there a connector in the engine bay that the starter motor solenoid wire...

It's great to see some real data on suspension. While you have the shock "ripped open" how about posting some pictures of some of the more interesting internal bits, like, the piston and its valving, and the adjustment mechanism. I'd appreciate it, if you could give us some comments as to why...

We've lost at least one here too, Collins in Sth. Melbourne, I don't know I recon. they've probably been around 20 yrs too. I found out when I rang them and no answer, rang out 3 times, so I rang Mitsu HQ, they told me. I expect they could have organised Collins to put a recorded voice...

We've lost at least one here too, Collins in Sth. Melbourne, I don't know I recon. they've probably been around 20 yrs too. I found out when I rand them and no answer, rand out 3 times, so I rang Mitsu HQ, they told me. I expect they could have organised Collins to put a recorded voice...

Thanks for the tip. I was thinking the same thing, Supercheap has those masts for $24. Unfortunately for me the mast is ok, it's the motor drive that's worn. None of the common off the shelf motor drives I have seen, have the matching mounting points, electrical connections or mast tube length...

Thanks for the info. The other thing that's concerning is that there doesn't seem to be any teeth missing from the old mast. For a few weeks the antenna wouldn't fully retract leaving 3in. of antenna out. Then it stopped extending and retracting all together, but now I can see that the mast...

I can't see how I can remove the ferrule from the old antenna mast, so I can re-use it on a new mast. It seems to be captive? At the top, the cap is too big for the ferrul to go over and at the bottom the nylon cylinder is too big for the ferrule to go over ??Do the replacement masts come with...

You do need a press and the appropriate sized bearing separators to disassemble the gears and bearings from the shafts. Dre's VFAQ is the most useful resource I've found. You need the puller if the 5th gear is stuck on the shaft, as mine was. The 5th gear pictured in the VFAQ is installed upside...

You'll need a 3/16 pin punch to remove the roll pins. Best to have a puller with 2mm thick hooks in case 5th gear is jammed on tight. If you want to remove all the taper bearing races you'll need a puller with thin hooks facing outwards that can fit between the bottom of the bearing race and the...

You are low on fluid.Brake fluid was pooling! under my car when it sat for a few days. The master cylinder had fluid dripping from the underside of the cylinder. I replaced the 4 cups on the pistons and an o-ring under the blanking plug in the side of the cylinder.I re-installed it and bled...

When you are successful at drilling it out, I'd really appreciate the details on how do it.I was thinking that I could grind it out but I'd need a 3mm diameter grinding tool of some sort ? I don't know, maybe there's some kind of diamond encrusted tool as small as 2mm, that you can pick up or...

The orifice is a hardened insert. Myself, and others before me, have tried drilling it, but the drills won't cut it.

The orifice inside the stock FPR is only 2mm diameter. It can't flow enough fuel to regulate the flow from a larger fuel pump. That's a 2mm drill bit sticking out of the orifice.

You need some long sharp probes for your meter, you can either pierce through the insulation on the wire or run the probe along side the wire into the back of the connector until it contacts the wire terminal. I could never find what I thought were suitable probes, so a few years ago I made some...

I got a pair of JDM mirrors a few months ago and both driver and passenger are convex ? I'm finding it hard to adjust to the "closer than they appear" factor.

Mine was shaking too. From memory it was because one of the plastic mounts for the mirror drive motor inside, had cracked. I used some glue and a piece of thin metal tie that's used on the CV joint boot, to repair the plastic mounting lug. I had to remove the mirror from its spring loaded mount...