Did you just put new valves in the head that bent valves? What was your specific repair process?

Don’t buy u joints buy yoke kits, they’re half as much.

Best ride/drive road in Arizona is between yarnell and Prescott.Don’t let them tell you it’s called press kit either.

</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quoting Jesus_Negros:</font><hr /> That no one would pay 9k for a usdm car when you can get a mad jdm tyte version for less.<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">For the exact same condition car I’d pay way more for usdm. I hate driving from the wrong...

</font><blockquote><font class="small">Quoting scottinalaska:</font><hr /> Donnie, what do you mean put "copper wire" in the grooves if I wanted to run a metal gasket? I don't see what grooves I'd put it in, let alone copper wire. Thanks.<hr /></blockquote><font class="post">Pull the...

I would have removed the part in question 8 months ago.

If you want to run those rings you need a composite gasket. If you want to run an mls you need to put copper wire in the grooves.

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Quoting Vince: So as we know, 26 years has seen the demise of many a VR-4.... Totaled, fire, flood, rusted out or what ever.What I do see is many owners selling off the original plaque, and often to an buyer with less than honorable intentions. I've encountered this with other 'limited...

Washing a 25 year old engine bay is asking for trouble. None of the connectors are waterproof anymore.The first thing I ask people about a random no start or misfire is if they washed out the engine bay. The cas seems to be the number one issue with water getting into the actual cas.

Are you sure the turbo isn't a 68hta? The hta86 is a ball bearing Garrett 35r with a fp compressor, and non j-pipe compressor housing.

I don't believe that the km210 uses a reverse synchro. There is probably a plate on the hub that keeps the synchro springs and keys in place.

It's highway pulls that end up killing them.

I'm also in the valley. Any transmission stuff?

You are grounding the fuel pump check connector.

Put the link Ecu in the car. You'll be able to see the sensor data, and won't just be randomly swapping parts. I'm betting it's just a bad tune from the mystery EPROM chip and maft.

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Quoting turbophein: i don't want to be that guy but this setup new does not cost this much?? plus you ruined it by welding on an elbow instead of just buying the bolt on pipe for cheap money... i'm in the market for a HTA 68 but they are cheap brand new $679These are $1999 new, and the o2...

I'm still betting on your tob. To check for crank thrust play its best to at least take the tension off the acc belts.

Quoting curtis: I believe max is like 8 thousandths .....get a dial indicator to check for the crankwalkThat is the spec I go by when building engines. But for a car to show symptoms, especially a 1g engine with no crank sensor, the play is usually at least 1/16" and you can physically feel it.

It's probably the throw out bearing. To check for bad crank walk grab the crank pulley and push and pull on it. If it's walked bad you'll feel the movement, and hear it clicking or knocking back and forth.

I'll take them when I get home. I've been wanting to put them on my talon forever, but finding wheels to fit is a pain.

I have some front calipers if you want them. $100 shipped.

Wait, so I can win an auction on bat and the seller can just decide not to sell it?

I had a machine shop make me brass bushings for $20, and welded the end. The stock rebuild kits just fail again snyway.

I've checked out several different budget brands and tried a few different setups in my cars. I'm back to Koni's and eibachs. The easiest way I've found to judge a suspension setup is to go semi fast around a bumpy corner. Most of what I've experienced involves skipping across the road.

How much boost do you run, feeding from the head?

A small boss in an aluminum compressor housing has to be one of the easiest things in the world to helicoil.

Not sure about 92, but going from east coast 93-94 to west coast 91 I usually have to drop a few psi of boost, and 5-8* of timing.

Check that the rings don't get pinched in the land, knock the sharp edge off of it with a detail file and run it. The valve relief cuts are sharper than that dent will be. The bottom end in my car was in it when I bought it. Eagle/wiseco combo. At some point in time the exhaust valves contacted...

If it's cranking it is turning over, it's just not starting.

Could you give a better description? How is it cranking but not turning over? Is the starter just whining?

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My buddy has 18x8 in the front, and 19x9.5 on the rear of his 4g63 swapped 3000gt. All you need to do is match the diameter of the tires within 1-2%. He also runs a welded center diff and has no binding issues.

Quoting sy1100: So 927 was Stolen yesterday from in front of my house. My wife saw it when she left to go shopping, and when I came out an hour later it was gone. I'm so pissed and disappointed, on the bright side I did not have single after market part on the car, as those pieces are still in...

You don't have to race in an nhra class to need to meet their tech. I see (and have been) people get kicked all the time at test and tunes for nhra regulation violations. I understand if you'll never drag race and only need to meet scca or other road race/auto cross. It gets to be a pain if...

From the Nhra rule book.

If you wreck your car in a front end collision with that setup there is a good chance you will break your back.

Attaching the shoulder straps to the rear seat belts is about the worst possible way to do it, and won't pass tech anywhere. The lowest attachment point allowed is 4 inches below your shoulder. That's why people use harness bars.

I don't care what they need the money for. I've bought new rods for $200 Several times, and new fic 2150's and 1650's for $400.

Junk, toss them. Metal that has changed color due to heat is no longer the same alloy/heat treat as when it was manufactured.

I've never had an issue getting the head galley plugs out.

Prediction. Someone not on this forum will buy this car. They will then post in the newb section about their sweet new jdm tight vr4. Someone will link this thread.

I use a tig and short piece of filler rod to pull them out. Zap a piece of rod onto the ball and pull it out with vice grips.

It does bleed off some pressure, but you can only bleed off so much before you have an issue. If you take a bucket with a couple small holes in it you can still fill it with a hose, as long as the hose is constantly running. Keep adding holes and eventually it won't hold any water.

Depends on the rod side clearance. A mod like this depending on how large the cuts are can effectively triple or more the rod side clearance pressure loss. It could at least cause a localized pressure loss at the worst possible place in the engine, at the worst possible time. The upper rod...

Quoting r4pt0x: These ports only deliver the oil needed at the piston pin for lubrication. The oil squirters deliver a constant oil stream for piston cooling, which is definitely needed for turbo applications and is even present on most 4G63 & 4G67 N/A DOHCs for a reason. Remove them and you...

One of your axle ends is probably broke of in the rear end.

The driveability is stockish. I idle at stoich, but when I was dialing them in I could make them go much leaner. I've hit 90% dc with the 3582. The tune was still a little rich. They seem to work fine with gasoline.

I have the high z 1650's in my car. I can idle at 17:1 if I want, and they are large enough to support a fp 3582htz at 40 psi.