Was that the only damage?

I've also sprayed some oil in the cylinders just the make sure the friction between the rings and walls is lessened. That oil can reduce over time. This will also give you a bit better compression for that first start.

That's ONE way to lower compression.

Yes

I have to second that... Terry did a great job. Cannot comment on the workmanship of whoever did the mods prior but it looks like there are areas that are still in need of attention. As I understand it, though, that residue is normal as it is just a breakdown of the protective coating from the...

Check that your battery and alternator connections are ok before replacing anything.. Did the engine you got already have the alternator on it?

Quoting AnotherNewb: Too many years ago.... Is my memory supposed to be this crappy at 27?Mine was gone at 25... you're ahead of the curve

I think you may want to visit the vfaq site for a bit....or more if you have already. You're about to kill another engine without figuring out what went wrong in the first place. Not to mention it could have just been a simple head gasket that gave way (not likely though). There are a few...

I've done the block off (screw in method with JBWeld) on a few cars and in cold temps had no issue keeping an idle at first startup. The ISC did just fine, though as stated already - took a few more cranks and sometimes a second of throttle to get it idling normally.Btw, 3 out of 4...

The turbo 90 tranny is built differently than the non-turbo tranny. If you're going to be using a weaker trans to begin with for an application that will have substantially more power/load and spreading that accross less surface area (2 axles instead of 4) than I think you're asking for...

From what vehicles? 90 trannies have different bearings that cannot handle the load so absolutely not. Curious as to which 91-92 non-turbo tranny you're referring to. I know some summits and vans came with them.

It sounds like you're running your boost off of the FPS if it takes a minute to kick in. This is the ECU taking a minute to open the Solenoid. You might want to run it directly off of the manifold if that is the case.

Quoting Alpha Male: Quoting 1990ggsxnj: Yes that is just like the Galant GSX - is your spoiler soft and squishy as well? Good looking gal. Are those the stock rims, because they look similar to one type of stock VR4 rims.it is the Canadian, eagle variant of the GGSX. Your n00bness is...

You regularly run your engine for a minute or two with oil drained out of the pan??

Yes that is just like the Galant GSX - is your spoiler soft and squishy as well? Good looking gal. Are those the stock rims, because they look similar to one type of stock VR4 rims.

Google searched "dsm knock sensor black wire"This was the top result

Because I've experienced braking on a car that had the 92 large calipers without an upgraded master cyl - will your pedal feel be similarly spongy because of the large ratio in cyl size between the stock Vr4 master cyl and Evo calipers? Is the 92+/Stealth Master Cyl recommended with this? Will...

I was going to say that as well but he states it happens when it is WOT at a specific RPM and goes away if he increases throttle slowly. Sounds like that might rule it out (never completely until it's resolved though).

Could also be a boost leak causing the fuel cut.

I've never seen it either... I could sware that the retaining clips are a little different though.

In fact take a look at the "Sticky: Welcome, Newbies please read! (FAQs and info within)" link at the top of the Newbies section.Why does everyone miss this?

Sooo... looking at it would be anal suicide???

I've not had any problems using silicone hose though others have. If you really can't get it on with spit and determination you can always go to the vacuum/emissions section of any local parts store and find what you need.

PM'd for coils

Well, if you part it and I get the sensors you don't have to ship them. I can just stop by when I visit North Jersey in a couple weeks.

Quoting turbowop:And to those that think revs over 7500 are high...no. People run North of 8k all the time with upgraded cams even without issue.Thanks for the catch - I meant 8.5k...certainly not the stock rev limit. Combined with a significant dip in performance afterward and it could...

I've always just removed the fuel rail keeping the injectors on and jumped the fuel pump test port to get the system to pressurize. No need to keep it on for too long. A few seconds should tell you if any of them are leaking.

If all else checks out ok there you can also run a compression test to make sure no valves kissed pistons if RPM's were super high at one point ( beyond 7.5k)

Interested in the sensors if you ever part the setup.

Is there a piece missing that would connect to the passenger side of the IC?

Wow I totally missed that. That's not the way it was designed. Now once the turbo starts pressurizing the intake there's no vacuum relief from the compressors intake or from a breather. Unplug that hole.

At the top of the Newbies forum there is a sticky that states "Welcome Newbies, Please Read!". So... please read.

The switches should pop up easily but if they do not just open the center console, slide the box out, and stick your arm in there to push the switches out from behind. No need to pry.

I guess these are all 10/100?

What carrier? Not interested but someone else who is might want to know

1gt - this is a 1g DSM turbo which is similar in many ways.

Quoting agent23: didnt know how to word title. So wen i start the car it runs more or less at 1k but wen i drive and let off clutch to cum up to a stop sign or sumtin the rpms drop so low the car wants to die. what can i do to fix thisI didn't know how to work THE title. So WHEN I start...

Quoting curtis:Now maybe on the 4g63 a tube running down one side of the spark plug hole area and then around and back down the other with a system of holes around on top could work as an advantage to keep the catch cans empty. Even pondered on a tube in a tube situation.So the...

Quoting Red_Bird: I still have mine, and my car idles like a dream. I can have the AC blasting ice cold on a 90 degree day stopped and still idling at a perfect 750 rpms.When I first got my car I had some trouble with the idle, but it was just the throttle plate would not shut all the way...

You're probably seeing a GM MAF which would have to be used with some sort of modification to the ECU or a translator (which just tricks the ECU). If you're just running a stock setup there is no need for it really.Please be punctual and use capitalized letters so we can tell when a...

Vent definitely could have contributed to the oil everywhere. I would still degrease everything to make sure other leaks beside the oil pan leak are visible.

Honestly I have never had any car idle better than after the FIAV blockoff. That thing is HORRIBLE on most Galant/1g's I've seen past 100k. But you definitely want to do the basics first. FIAV is number 7 in the list

along with that, is there anything else modified (ie non-stock ECU and settings). Sometimes people say stock when they really mean "Stock engine and piping". Just looking for clarification on the setup.If EVERYTHING is stock than: Quoting brunoboy: Leaky injectors? Fpr failure?

One JSB, One I'm driving now.. soooo I'll just raise a finger

+2 on EGR. Same thing happened to me on one of my previous Talons. Funny thing was it was an N/t and that was really the only mod

Any pics yet?

I believe you're correct on the wire needing to be grounded for the fan switch. Generally the accepted locaton is before the flex section but after the stock location. I think this is a "what better suits me" question. Do you want more accurate readings [closer to the manifold] or do you want...

Quoting 1990ggsxnj: Not commenting on using that type of Crank Pulley (anti-absorption) since you're just asking if they will work. If you were asking if they will continue to work, I would say stick with a stock Crank Pulley or Fluidamper Crank Pulley.= Quoting alansupra94: Isn't the...