You don't need a 5 point harness, that's overkill. You can pick up a 3 or 4 point for around $100. If your buying seats and rails, then it shouldn't be much more to run proper belts.

Quoting ApexHunter: All of em, so i could do some thorough flushing!This, if you do one end only, you won't get all the junk out and it will be loose. First start up will flush it out and into the engine where it will score up journals.

Come on man, are you really going to cheap out on these?

Ugghh, I want an AMG front sooo bad.

Quoting tektic: Is it ok to mix and match rods of the same make and model? May have to weigh and balance them but should be fine right?Yes, that rod is toast, literally.You can as long as the dimensions are the same. Yes, I would be sure the rods are all within a few grams of each other...

Could be SAE then. Never had as big of an issue as you did.

You'll need to check with iceman, he's got the list of vin with numbers. He will need your vin.

With only 2 pictures.... .

It's a split on the necessity of it. Half say it's critical, half say it's snake oil. From all the pics I've seen of the crud that comes out, I say it's very important when building a 2k dollar engine. I've built a few engines and never done this, and not had any issues, but that doesn't mean it...

G, you got some nice jugs.

Heat and an impact 5mm hex socket. Slow and careful, they can be hard.

^Exactly.Also goes with not pulling out the oil gallery plugs in the head when cleaning it. I pull them out, and use a gun cleaning kit to get all the head oil passages cleaned up.

Whoever bought the 1450s should really pick up that ez tune box. I know this from experience.

Saab once recommended the 9-3 turbo ecotec to go 18k per change because it's synthetic. The advertised interval means nothing. Oil won't break down in a daily driver, at least not fast enough. The primary reason is because the detergents in the oil get "used" up and need to be replaced, hence...

From what I understand its crud that falls out of suspension in the oil. the force of the crank separates it out and pushes it towards the ball.

I bet you do. Bogus hot tanks and cleans them and has pulled the balls to find more junk. It's a deep recess back behind the ball. Hard to get cleaner to it. Only reason oil gets back there is from the centrifugal force of the crank pushing it outwards.

Had you been running a hot pipe you could have broke the 11s....

It's a tiny little space that even a hot tank cleaning won't reach. It will remove some, but not ALL the junk.

What a pile...

Drill it out with skill, patience, and understanding how to drill out something like this. I.E. Don't just take any ol drill bit and go to town.

Any dsm will have the same bracket on the rear caliper.

Quoting Fish: Don't the Honda guys stack washers under their hoods for some reason?Scene points.

Your the one who posted a long technical sounding post with no knowledge of what your talking about.

I missed the front grip part. OMG too funny.

Quoting gvr4ever: I thought the vents in the EVO/GVR4 was to let heat escape. Some cars got functional ram air, others have functional vents for a top mount IC. Can't bunch all hoods together.Yea the hood vents over the engine will, due to the louvered design creating negative pressure...

It still amazes me that people think that it vents air. For 50yrs muscle cars do it to for more air intake, yet people still think it lets air out.

Venting the rear of the hood.

Quoting Gtpdz: So I'm really getting tired of the full 3 inch exhuast that came with the car, right now it has only a glass pack resonator and a straight through glass pack muffler. Not bad at city cruising but high way speed the drone is just terrible...So whats the option here? Getting a...

They charge for stacking washers to install the WGA.

That's still too vague....

Quoting MikeyTsi: So? This isn't a for sale thread.You literally asked us to evaluate a car for you, then turn and deny the need to show us pics or a link to the ad? Are you 15yrs old?Given what you said, which is the list of bad, no mileage listed, no body condition, no links, no pics...

Or trans...

Quoting GSTwithPSI: LMFAO. Both Ryans got a boner for 988It's only a partial chubby, unlike your raging bone for Velencia.

Just went to my local Wendy's for this deal. THey didn't have any more tags left,

Quoting car_guy: Where does the BOV mount?Rally cars don't use BOV.

They aren't worth that much. He's trying to make a crap load of money of the members of this forum while acting like he's doing us a favor. I bet he has less that $100 bucks in it and shipping will be maybe $200.

Come one you cheap VR4 owners. These can be modded to fit the VR4 just like the stock struts can.

Quoting 988: Already see this Vr4 at Japan... very nice...You say that about all your rusted crappy looking parts you sell for 20x the real value.

I once thought up the same design years ago. Never knew anyone made it. Cool stuff.

Adding some interesting info. Was re-ringing a Honda V6 today and I never noticed this, but the factory rods have 2 slots on each side of the rod that will channel oil to the wrist pin. It looks like its an oil bath that hits the wrist pin and slashes all over.So if the factory does this...

Quoting Illinoisinc: it just doesn't sound like a tire. it sounds like a metal to metal thump.Metal on metal wont thump.

Rotate your tires first, see if the noise moves. Tires can make lots of noises.

Last time I looked (6 months ago) Link tools was no longer available to the mass dsm crowd. If you knew the author then you might get a copy.

The issue with that is your building an engine with the hope that it will be ok. There is no precedent on this and your fully experimenting. Now if your pockets are deep and can afford to redo all the work if it fails, then I say go for it. Now if your on a tight budget, I'd say you may want to...

IIRC, in the mitsu service manual it does say not to weld up trans parts...I'm surprised you didn't make the swap to an EVO rear diff.

You just fill in the center of the mount, let it cure for 8 hrs, add some more urethane, let it cure 8 hrs, then fill it in smooth to the surface. let it cure a good 12hrs or so. You can't fill in the whole thing at once or the middle stuff won't cure.Cheap poly mount that is softer than the...

Quoting GSTwithPSI: Quoting alik: Mike, I appreciate the detailed explanation, and, yes, while it all makes reasonable sense, having thrown a rod (previously), and having trashed a head (on this engine), needless to say I'm more than a little wary of various little things that can (and will) go...

Looks like the head is machined and causing your "issue" I think it's fine, but let's see what the masses say.

Fill them with window weld urethane if you want soft but firm

That's what I thought it would be, seeing how you always have trouble with your shaft.....