Preferably with pump intact, i’d hate to delete the 4ws. Located in NY.

Alright fellas: talked to the guys at Advanced Clutch, they say it could be gear rattle. I will be making a video of gauge cluster with microphone in engine bay, switching to really heavy trans fluid and doing the same to see if it quiets down at all. If that doesn't work I'm going to get a US...

No FWD parts have been put in, going from JDM flywheel / clutch to USDM flywheel / clutch. Once I get the trans back out I'll get some photos. I'm ordering JDM parts to go back to stock and see if that fixes the issues. And that's awesome, I just moved outta WA but miss the Monroe car scene a lot.

Alright everyone. Been working on this issue for a while now and have finally hit a wall. Symptoms and info are as follows:I have a JDM 1988 GVR4, I upgraded the clutch with an ACT2600 and lightweight flywheel. Decelerating with the car in gear with clutch engaged makes a loud grinding noise...

That'll be my next course of action then. I inspected the clutch fork and it looks like it's supposed to, middle of the window leaning slightly toward passenger side (driver side US). It's either the pedal or the fulcrum! Getting there :cool:

Ok. I got the XACT streetlite flywheel and the MB1-HDSS clutch kit from ACT. put it all in (other clutch absolutely bombed flywheel and PP), get the trans back together and it still won't disengage. When I first turned it on it went into 1st and 2nd gear then stopped. Does that narrow any...

That must be my issue, I should have just bought a brand new US market flywheel and the ACT clutch kit. That's probably what i'll end up doing, just for the sake of more compatibility and parts availability; I'll also service the pivot ball while I have the trans out. Thanks for the help moose 🤝

Hey everyone,Put a new clutch in my '89 VR4, and am being plagued by disengagement issues (of course). I installed a new slave cylinder I had around, and bled and adjusted everything according to the Jacks Transmissions video. The clutch I installed was a Sachs from Orileys for a 91 vr4...

This is the Build Thread for GoCleanUrRoom's VR4. Reply below.

Just upgraded to the Feal 441's, and have my stock suspension sitting in a box. They're pretty clapped out, but just throwing them away feels wrong, figured I'd see if anyone here wants them. Make an offer, I literally won't say no. Ships from Seattle area, can meet if you're around the area.

Nice, I'm shopping around for a paint job myself. How long is yours under the knife for? Hopefully I can go out and get some speed this week to test the limiter delete, i'll keep ya posted.

Any update on if the screw solution worked? I was able to deactivate my chime with the screw trick, but also haven't gotten around to removing the limiter screw. If the SLD is definetly needed do any of you have one for sale?

That's super clean looking, killer work 🤝

Let us know if you find anything! I'm sure there would be a good amount of people interested if someone made a rep...

I have one, PM me 🤝

Where in WA? Very interested, could possibly pick up tonight or over weekend.

I havent seen anyone using / recommending Linkecu for the Vr4, anyone have good experiences with it? I saw Speed Academy used it for their EVO VI build on youtube and was curious because it seems beginner friendly(ish?) as far as DIY tuning goes. Let me know!