the car starts, but won't run. I've put a test light on PCM connectors, and I've got no power on 102 & 107, and no ground on 106.Could someone confirm that the MPI relay is the culprit?Thanks!!!

Nile Black, in fair condition, in Boston.The good? 1) Car runs and drives, and everything works (A/C, cruise, aftermarket CD player) 2) makes boost, 3) seats are in very good condition (no rips or tears, and still full padding), 4) windows work, 5) moonroof works (no slide cover)...

Checked the ISC, it's fine (coils show proper resistance, and the motor is moving when the key is switched to on/off) FIAV is blocked off per click BISS is adjusted all the way down.Rpms drop when the A/C is switched on, and the car is very hesitant to idle. Idles fine if the rpms are above...

Seems in my haste to pull apart the engine bay (replacing the head), I've displaced the little rubber ring that goes over the turbo inlet, that allows the stock snorkel to fit properly. I remember it being a soft piece of rubber. Does anyone recall where I can find/make one? HDR? (Home Depot...

I'll just throw this here, 'cause this seems like a newbie issue.Replacing the belt after having replaced the head. New belt, tensioner, tensioner & idler pulleys (from STM= streettunedmotorsports.com). Trying to set the timing, and I always end up half a tooth off on the crank. Borrowed a...

Is this correct? Studs are ARP.So, the image is upside down if I'm standing at the front of the car, right?

Please, help, I'm a little stuck. Pulling the head off the engine still in the car. Got the air and fuel lines off, belts off, electrical off, head stud nuts off. The head feels like something is holding it back at the back of the engine, yet I'm somewhat stumped. I'm trying to pull it with the...

In perfect, albeit not brand new shape. Going back to OEM tensioner, no longer need this.Make me an offer.

If I'm correct, it's the part # MD069879 , OEM Coolant Temp Sensor (ECU)-1G DSM/GVR4.My issue is that even on the JNZ site, the housing doesn't match the plastic shroud on my sensor. Do I have the wrong part?

Still struggling with this issue. When the car is cold, starts fine. When it gets to temp, it won't refire. Sounds like it's struggling to turn over, but the battery is fine, sparkplugs are ok, no other visible issues apart from a very predictable fact that when the engine is hot, it absolutely...

Once it cools down, it fires without an issue, but hot... Car has other multiple issues, vacuum leak, CEL, hole in the exhaust, idle surge. God help me with this car. :/

I've already ran a wire into the trunk in the process of rewiring the fuel pump. My question is, is this a good box to use? Or, is there a better solution?Thanks!

Discuss amongst yourselves

Like, all of a sudden I just noticed that my stock setup cuts out at 3 psi, add opposed to the usual 12. Literally, the car won't go any faster than 55 in 5th and all I hear is the fuel cut off switch. Sorry to sound like an utter newb, but I'm stomped.

Right now it's a horrible mess. 20-year old factory hoses, rubber air intakes, and, just, ugh. Never mind that it's a filthy pain in the rear to work under the hood every single time, but, I'm almost ashamed to open the hood. Now, mind you, I'm not building a show car. Goodness, no. But, I'd...

Willing to foot the shipping + cost. Please, let me know if you've got one lying around.

I'm in Boston. Price negotiable.Lemme rephrase that. This board has been a little too good to me lately, and I feel like returning the favor. The first head came from a reputable source. The second came off my engine after I threw a rod. I tested the head, no leaks.Just pay the...

the 1-blade switch that screws into the throttle bodythanks!Getting one from Pot.

My idle surge has become a major annoyance. Nevermind the rise and dip anywhere between 800 and 3000 RPM, but the car won't even idle! (I have the cyclone intake, no other mods...) I tried to play with FIAV (remove the TB, pop the water plug, turn the insert), but the damn insert barely turns...

This is a car with history. Not a good history. It sat (blown engine) for some 3 years while I was getting around to it. Even after the engine transplant, it's still a ball of wax. Problems are abound. Rocker panels are full of rust. Hood is damaged (and rotten at the lip). Front bumper is...

It's leaking at the seam. Once the tank is more than half full, it stinks of gas. Problem is that our gas tanks are rarer than blue moon (at least that's what brief search led me to believe)Question is, is it possible to weld/repair the gas tank? Thanks!

that connects filler neck and gas tank? Thanks!

Was screwing with my brakes today, and forgot to re-attach the pass side. And I'm sure I left the little spring clip on the ground at the garage. If someone has a spare, I'd be forever in debt!Al

The engine turns over, but won't fire. Ran previously with starter fluid. Has spark, ignition pulse, fuel, air. Just swapped the plugs. BR7ES. Ran before on some substitute plugs, and those came out (were in the car for less than 1 running hour) looking like this.Clearly the car is running...

What's left is: sort the brakes out, re-register the car (still insured), clean the interior, wrap wire loom around the wires under the hood, figure out any gremlins with the engine (there always are), replace the sparkplugs (already ordered BP7ES from RockAuto - $10), replace the hood (found a...

Cranks fine. Will start with some brake cleaner sprayed in the TB, and will start after being run for a little bit. But let it sit (even for 20 min), and it's back to the drawing board.Air ducts are tight. Fuel is there. Ignition pulse is good. Spark is present. The only thing is, the bundle...

rewired the fuel pump, now I can't figure out which wire goes where. Help?

A section of my harness (namely right near the water neck) has pretty much disintegrated. I stopped by a couple of local junkers, but they don't have any DSMs. Question is, how do I search on car-part.com for a piece of harness?(That's the motley crew of sensor connectors near the water neck...

I'm having difficulty locating a proper size hose for the throttle body. The hose that comes off the blow off valve (still stock) is 2" while the cyclone TB is 2.5" Am I overlooking the plainest of things?Or, are they really hard to find? (I'd suppose I need a reducer from 2.5" to 2"...

Funny thing is, at the connector everything measures out fine. Two grounds, a 12V (11.9) and 6V (for the gauge). The fuel pump, when plugged into the battery jumper, runs just fine, yet when plugged into the connector, everything immediately drops down to almost non-existing. My mechanic thinks...

Rebuilding my car, and the harness at the water neck is completely shot. Wires broken, connectors missing. Question is, where can I find replacement connectors?(I'm planning to replace about 1 foot of wiring and rewire all the connectors at the end of that line. I know one of them is the O2...

My g/f's Saab (9-7x) has them (factory, of course), and I got to thinking. With all the myriad of aftermarket seats out there, is there a seat (doesn't matter whether it's a bucket or reclining one) that has integrated belts?That would solve the automatic idiocy in a jiffy. (And, as usual...

by your lonesome, or, just suck it up and hand it over to the engine shop (knowledgeable, used him in the past) (for the record, I've never done the engine before, but, I know the business end of a wrench)

And, this is what came out.

So, apart from the (somewhat obvious) engine refresh (timing belt, camshaft gaskets, front main), and new rings and bearings, what can I salvage and what can I not? Are the rods reusable? Pistons? Do wrist pins come with pistons or rods? Neither?TIA

Sound coming from under the hood. Sounds like lifter tick. Gets louder past 4-5k. My buddy said that it's not lifter tick, and something related to oil being sprayed on the pistons?Suggestions, please.

I think the PO wired both fans to come on at the same time, but, regardless, the fans don't wanna work. They'll spin, if the wires are grounded (not sure which ones, but, there are some near the ABS unit). But, even with the radiator switch jumped, the fans don't wanna come on. Temp gauge stays...

This is to describe my experience with partsmatrix. I first came across Lance through recommendation of my Miata engine builder. Just so happened that Lance was leaving on vacation, and I needed valve seals and a bunch of other goodies pronto, and, despite him having less than 12 hours before...

I have a chance to buy cyclone intake from a buddy of mine. $50 bucks. Wondering if it's worth it.

Pushing the pedal at rest, and it goes down all the way. I just swapped a new master, and bled 4 corners. ABS is disconnected, but, impossible to bleed (too far up the ass).The car stops perfectly fine. I used Motive Power bleeder and ATE Blue. I've got a rejected sticker because of this crap...

Sorry, it's probably been asked a thousand times before, but How difficult is it to rebuild 16G?Or, more to the point, How easy iis it for me to muck up the rebuild? (I play with everything mechanical, but, new things scare me)

Symptoms are: 1) turbo blows oil on WOT, and when coasting down 2) Dipstick pops every now and then.FP told me that it is most likely ECP.Could you please walk me through this like I'm a 5-year old?Thanks in advance! (Why, oh, why, can't everything be as simple as suspension? )

My Evo III 16G has a good amount of side-to-side play, but no in-and-out. I've only driven the car for less than a month since putting it back on the road (it sat for about 2 years with turbo installed, while the front bumper support was being hacked to accommodate RS FMIC).The car is down on...

tia

for our cars?RR-LF-ABS1-LR-RF-ABS2?Is that right? And, where the hell do I bleed the bleeping ABS unit (even though it's unplugged)? (I'm not new to bleeding, but, have never bled GVR4)

Ugh.Yes, have both washers on banjo bolts, but,