I need that! PM sent.

Do you still have the A/C compressor?

Mine was going through twice that amount, but mainly only at interstate speeds. It almost never left a puff of smoke, unless I launched it, but even that was just a small puff left at the line. It turned out to be my rings.

I didn't think my annoying vibration was the harmonic balancer either. I had resigned to the idea that I should have had my engine balanced when I rebuilt it. Then when it fully separated I replaced it. It was like a whole new car after that.Assuming you actually made sure you don't have...

Harmonic balancer.

I see them rusted out all the time, but I live in Rustville USA. Usually they corrode around the lip that holds the o-ring in place.

Seems like it would have to turn up soon. I can`t see there being a huge market for stolen parts from such rare turds.

But I didn't buy it. It's left over parts. That's part of the reason I bought this as a DD, because I have tons of parts.

I would like to put new everything, and install link, but I have a limited number of funds. Keeping my fingers crossed for the 27 year old 4g61 balancer I have on there now.

It may have been the original; it came with the car. The one I put on was an OEM 4g61 balancer that had the number "61" cast into the center hub. I will say, my Colt that makes probably 400hp has had a Dorman balancer on it for at least two or three years, and so far no issues.

I just drove around all summer and fall wondering why my engine felt out of balance. I had already checked the balance shafts, and it seemed like it was never totally consistent. It always seemed to vibrate more with higher RPM, but it usually seemed worse during WOT. It was so bad at times that...

If you just add a 2" restrictor to your tailpipe it will make a world of difference. I had restrictors in my dual outlet muffler on my Colt that were held in by stainless steel screws so I could easily remove them at the track.Eventually I got tired of having to do stuff: I put a throttle...

I worked on a 1g DSM one time that had no wheel bearing retainer clips on either side. The bearing, hub, and rotor were moving toward the center of the car on both sides. Some dipshit put washers behind the rotors to compensate.Funny part is, they only had enough washers for a Gvr4...

Still rocking the GM alternators in my Colt, and my Galant. They perform flawlessly.

I just replaced my front yoke because it was leaking, and found my front two u-joints were binding. I was getting a nasty vibration from those front u-joints, because when the engine mounts loaded up the driveshaft angle changed from straight, to slightly angled. It sounds like you may be...

I would replace it. The sensor must be binding up, and sticking at WOT.

If the clutch feels like it's dragging all the time, you may have a disk that doesn't slide freely on the input shaft. I had this happen to me before and it sucks. I went the reckless route by doing a couple hard clutch drops accelerating and decelerating, which loosened it up enough to solve...

I had a similar symptom a few weeks ago, and it turned out to be the cable mount at the top of the bell housing had ripped off of the rubber bushings that hold it to the little adapter bracket. A few minutes with a 12mm socket and some washers on the side of the road, and the issue was resolved...

It could also be as simple as a bad radiator cap. The only thing preventing the coolant from boiling when it hits 212F (lower as you go above sea level) is the fact that it's under pressure. I cap that no longer holds pressure, will boil over every time.Edit: But you have a new radiator cap...

That's good to know about the 95 psi cutoff since I run around 52psi base pressure in my Colt and screw the boost controller in until it bottoms out.I agree with Old Hairy Bastard about the swirl pot approach. I made one for my Colt out of a 4" cylinder to house my Walbro, and I feed it...

13.3 is impressive at redline! I've seen peoples logs showing as low as 10 volts at redline. I was usually lucky to see 13.3 at cruise with nothing turned on, and voltage below 12 at redline. A pump rewire can't hurt, but having 14.5 volts to start with is a big help too.

I have the 3M one without the steps. I bet those steps make it work even faster.

I would put yourself a step ahead of the game by just putting in a Saturn or 3.4L Camaro alternator. I put one in mine last week when the Mitsubishi unit quit, and 14.5v at idle with everything on is nice. Besides, check a log, the original alternators don't do squat above 5000 rpm anyway...

There are two different sized (Japanese) radiator caps. One is deeper than the other. Often times when you get an aftermarket radiator, the cap style will vary, but I doubt the water outlet is different/odd.

Note to self: Installed new BPR6ES plugs and Sealed power main and rod bearings at 117900 miles. On the subject of notes, I need to put one on my dash to remind me not to push the clutch when I start my car.

I put in Rotella 15W40 and now I have massive oil pressure. Works for me.

That was with synthetic 10W30. I let the engine cool for a half hour or so, drove it back with he A/C off, fixed the fan, set the timing, and installed a mechanical pressure gauge. Since then, the temp has stayed in the center, and the oil pressure has never dropped below 12psi while idling hot...

I think the lifter debate is interesting, and wonder if they hurt oil pressure much at idle speed. You would think some testing must have gone into developing the revised lifters. Anyways, I've been driving 631 for a couple days now and a funny thing happened on the first drive. It was about 89...

Just an update on 631: Crank #2 is polished, I have another new lower gasket "conversion" set as they call it, and the Sealed Power main and rod bearings arrived on Monday. All I need to get for it now is the time. It has the ultra plush, smooth running, noise free, helical cut oil pump in...

Not pulling the pistons out of the bores. The rod bolts stay.

Well the rods were actually the original parts from the engine that's currently in my Colt, and I'm pretty sure they were only used once. A machine shop checked them and said they were good years ago, and they sat in a box ever since.I have my lower gasket set, and new ball joints, and outer...

Well how often are you supposed to replace them? I'm not building a monster.

I'm going to take my chances with the bolts. Come to think of it, the rods were out of a virgin block, so the only one who has torqued those has been me and the factory.Factory nitrided crank #2 polished and ready for action. Machinist said, "That is some hard material!"

I'm not a fan either. Sure it has it's good point, (cheap race fuel) but I'm not buying into all the other "benefits". I refuse to drink the cool aid.

I run the CMGS progressive gauge/controller with an EIII16g turbo on FIC650s and an extra 10psi of fuel pressure on 93 pump gas and 25psi of boost. It pulls like a wild banshee, and when I run race gas I screw the boost controller down until it bottoms out.I can't say anything bad about...

I had two of those 140A ace alternators, and neither lasted more than a month. I assumed it was RPM related, because they both died at racetracks. Could have been heat though. I ended up putting a Camaro alternator in my Colt (same as Saturn but even cheaper) and the car has been running at 14.4...

The crank is scored and groovy. Crank number two is at the machine shop for a polish and clean. Probably worth the $86 in hindsight. Keeping my fingers crossed, because I only have one more spare 6 bolt crank laying around the shop after this one.The bolts have been torqued a (guessing)...

I got over my initial disgust and lack of motivation to do anything with this fine piece of machinery, and pulled the engine. The Balance shaft bearings and rod bearings seem to be undamaged. In fact the other four mains look decent as well besides a small scratch in one of them from a speck of...

Yeah the engine is coming out at this point. It did have a lot of movement, and depressing the clutch was creating enough drag to slow the idle down to 400-500, and even stall it. The light only came on when it was hot, idling, and as I held the clutch down. After it cooled for an hour the light...

Yeah the crank is pretty groovy on the thrust surface. The pressure plate and clutch are the same that came with the car (solid disk, yellow plate)act maybe. It feels normal/average to me, other than engaging half an inch from the floor, but it's always done that too. The pedal effort isn't much...

No the clutch switch wasn't disabled, and yeah maybe I held it down more than I needed to. The clutch is adjusted right, but it wasn't killing the thrust surface prior to the rebuild. This was only 2000 miles in! And yeah, the opposite thrust surface still has a paint mark on it, indicating that...

I haven't pulled the whole thing apart yet, but I did find flecks of crud in the main face of the bearing too. Only on the trailing edge of both bearings. The mains are a $29 set of Clevites, so probably not tri metal.

I blasted out all the crank passages with brake clean, but I didn't remove the balls. That particular bearing is lubricated directly from the block, and doesn't have any passages in the crank.

Seemed right when I snapped this photo.

The bearings in the engine it came from look fantastic.

I can feel grooves in the thrust surface of the crank on one side. I can barely believe this carp.

The arrow is facing the right direction at least.

I wont swap main caps, I know I can't do that. I was referring to the used bearings. It's going to be days before I see a new set of main bearings for this thing. Stores don't even stock wheel bearings for this car.I'm working my way around the oil pan with a putty knife now. Pics to arrive...

I just noticed the mains are still in that N/A block I took parts from. Maybe I can just pull the pan and slip them in without pulling the crank, and cross my fingers.

I have been taking 800mg of Ibuprofen every eight hours since the crash up until last night because my stomach wasn't feeling right. I didn't disable the clutch switch, but that's about the first thing on my list now. I thought about it, but figured "eh what are the chances I'll get crankwalk on...