How are your hood hinges? Mostly the pivot pin...They can get sloppy over time and wondering if it's amplifying the resonance in that area.

Yeah, sadly this forum is pretty dead anymore...but there is still a lot of older and archived info that helps.

How strange, least you know for sure though. Is this all stock stuff, like the manifold, etc.?

Been awhile since I looked at mine, but would say using 1 stud instead of a bolt at that location is probably for clearance (i.e. not able to get a bolt in there). An M9 bolt would be extremely rare, sure that is what you have?

You've been on a long time, lurking hahaActually, was wondering about the OP and what his name was before.

What was your original screenname, OP?

Was it this platform or a different one that I'm thinking of that they used to sell Delrin bushings (kit or maybe standalone sourced)?

Looks good! Definitely will help.FWIW - this is what I did several years ago: https://www.galantvr4.org/threads/cookie-sheet-heat-shield-alternator.22198/

OP - what color is the smoke? Rule of thumb: White is coolant, or condensation; Black is excessive fuel; and Bluish is oil burning.As ggsxkid mentioned, generally if you're getting [oil burning] smoke on deceleration (let off gas and especially going downhill off throttle) it'd be the valve...

Yeah, it raises the seat but more so the rear part...the lever will go up 90° CW which is its maximum, or it can go anywhere in between and the handle will remain in whatever position you do it. Find it easier to pull it out first (toward the front), then rotate the lever. Probably easiest and...

Would freezing the seal help? That is a good trick with bushings at least, since it'll get slightly smaller and easier to put in the hole.

Too bad they don't make them in brass/copper configurations. Heavier, but superior in heat transfer to aluminum.

Didn't somebody make Delrin® bushings back when?

I see, so will it be that homepage if you were to type "galantvr4.org" instead of the picture? That would probably be good and one less 'step' for the end user.My current bookmark on my start page is old so will need to update, to what I've been typing (as you mentioned) for the .../forums

Is there a way to fix the main screen link (from galantvr4.org) to go to the forums when clicked, or after x amount of time...like it used to? Was working OK after the change, although did go to a 'home' page vs. the forums. Now though, it doesn't do anything except reference itself.

If it is oil burning, then a good way to tell if it's valve seals vs piston rings:*Decelerating/going downhill off throttle = valve seals -or- *Accelerating with throttle = piston ringsUsually you can smell the oil and yeah it'll have a bluish hue. Pure white "smoke" is either condensation...

Pull off the grill and reach behind the hood latch assy., there is a little lever. When facing the car, it will be on the right side at back. You can't see it jist looking at it, but can probably see it with a mirror, or feel it with your hand.Afterward, spray some lube on the exposed part of...

That makes sense, as it was only done for the US market.

Production number would probably be per the particular VIN on the last 5 or 6 digits (forgot qty).The badge number doesn't really correlate to the VIN or when it was made. IIRC, they put them on the dashes here once it got off the boat and not in the factory. Suppose you may be able to get an...

Probably because of the cheap-asses that want these for nothing

It won't be that VerticalScope will it? Hope not.Makes sense to upgrade, just it's nice to come to here and see it the same way it's been. Besides, not like there is much traffic (activity) here like the olden dayz.But, gotta do what you gotta do.Welcome.

Elevation plays a role, as well...Higher up, less air density; less power of course. Compressors (e.g. turbo, supercharger) can overcome some of that, but still. Take it you're not much 2k ASL though?What is the efficiency of that turbo (not familiar with those)? Imagine it would be good for...

Hey Ron! How you been? Good here...Are those the same Volks from back when? Love those wheelsGood luck on the sale, at any rate.

This may be worth a try: If you turn a compressed air can upside down while spraying, it is extremely cold...Spray the rubber (only) liberally as to have it contract and it's possible that you can then pull it off.

Just looked at mine and they are all flush (sides and top).

I thought only the DSM came with the "2000" valve cover?

You will need to use some sort of reducer on either end...they make silicone coupler reducers, although a longer transition would be helpful on the throttle body side. You'd want to look for concentric tubing reducers in that case and weld to your 2 1/2" tube. Don't forget to put a bead on the...

Put a nut on the backside of the cut. Afterward, by loosen the nut off past the cut area it helps clean the threads. Otherwise, you may have a difficult time threading it in the hole properly.Cut to, or use the proper size and don't apply the band-aid of washers, especially 3/8" worth of...

The '7' marking on the heads is a proprietary number, although many oem's seemingly use the same ID...IIRC the strength is ~ metric class 8.8 (or similar to grade 5 in SAE/std)EDIT - given the choice, use a Timesert over a Helicoil. More expensive, but definitely better, overall...they sell...

The braided line hose looks 'tweaked' at the straight AN fitting side...It would appear rotating the 90° AN fitting about its axis, slightly clockwise may alleviate that. In addition, the hose looks like it may be a little short, in that it seems to 'pull' it at the straight side, further...

Car looks good, although IMO probably look even better with the pillars painted black, like stock. Probably 'cause I'm not used to seeing it that way, but looks kind of funny body color there.

Are you sure the meter is set on DC and not AC voltage?As for blowing fuses, check for a short somewhere...especially on those areas where you ran the wire to be sure it didn't get chaffed, squished or otherwise exposed (where it can ground/short).[EDIT - does it blow the fuse right...

Actually, class 10.9 is similar to Grade 8, fwiw. Class 12.9 is more like a Grade 9 SAE.

If you turn a compressed air can upside down and spray, it comes out extremely cold. Do this liberally onto the poly bushingand this should make it contract enough to help come out easier.Doing this in conjunction with heating the metal first (to expand) will further help this cause.

Working A/C is a strong selling point and IMO no reason to remove it, unless 'racecar'. At the same time, replacing everything could get costly and R12 is $$$$ if you can find it. If you were going to go through all the trouble, think about converting it to at least R134A although even that they...

What are the actual differences between all the knock sensors? For example: Is it mostly physical, like say protrusion, how far it sticks out, thread diameter/pitch, etc.? Is there a particular value range that is needed for the ECU (i.e. x reading turns into y signal)? A particular connector...

Quoting BLUELIGHTSBABY: GET THIS ADD OFF OF HERE. THIS IS FOR GALANT VR4s only.That evil (badge) number is getting to you, with all the anger, lol.I personally don't mind seeing 'other' types of vehicles on here, so long as they are existing members and it's something of interest...

Delco-Remy...oh yeah, heard of them. Not sure why I didn't put them together in my mind, as the 'remy' part was kind of sort of sounding familiar...Now I see why.

Out of those choices, would go with the *new* AC Delco. Perhaps the Remy is better, although I personally have never heard of that brand, least does not ring a bell.Interesting the remanuf AC Delco is about the same price as new, so would be curious to know the difference.

Do you have, or will be installing, an adjustable brake proportioning valve? Not sure how they work with ABS though (as in, would a standard unit like you may find on Summit work, or does it have to be special).

How well is your PCV system working?

1991...even numbers...only one number would exist in this combo, theoretically.

I have a SPAL pusher as an auxilliary, for the A/C...but of course running a puller with shroud as main. Forgot the brand of that one, nothing crazy though.Have a brass radiator, which Ibthink is just stock and never ran into cooling issues with this car, fwiw. Far from stock engine and turbo...

Pusher fans are not as effecient (don't work as well) as puller fans, especially those with a shroud. May still work and all with higher cfm, apples to appkes, just saying be aware.

They make rivet nuts (aka rivnuts) that can be used to replace weld nuts. Sort of like threaded inserts and can be installed blind like a rivet.

Use an ignition wrench...those small combination wrenches, in meyric version of course.

Haven't left the game, but also haven't driven it in way too long.These aren't worth enough to be worth selling, so probably will enjoy it for many more years.

Not sure if he posts anymore, but Terry did mine a few years ago and was happy with his work and rate.

Not too bad considering the elevation.

I'd be dipped in sh*t.