14mm x 1.5 is the fitting you want for the 4WS lines at the front rack. There are multiple threads where people have used Earls' PN#991954 and two -6AN caps to block it off but I haven't heard of anyone trying them with -6AN lines going all the way to the back or what fittings are needed to do...

Tip: if you have more than one Mitsu, cut one side for one car and the other side for the other. Should work with any manufacturer's key that's bidirectional; only one side is actually used but you need to mark the key to use the right side for the right car.

Been a long time since I've done it, there's a couple screws that you remove from the black trim surrounding the instrument panel and after that you can remove the screws which hold the cluster. A couple wiring harnesses that need to be disconnected in the back and then the whole thing comes...

How's the driver's side front door?

I have a set and don't think they are too firm on stock springs at medium settings. You will feel every pebble on the road on the hardest settings which I've only used on the track. I found the rear a little too twitchy if you use the lowest setting with stock springs but mine set much higher...

Not sure what the engineers were thinking when they came up with 2-channel ABS. Drop one side of the car onto a slick surface and you pretty much lose all braking.

Haven't seen a Frosty post in a while...Pick up a Frosty Key Tag for friends and family for just $1 and they’ll get a free Jr. Frosty with every purchase throughout 2016

One thing to look out for is some of the belts I've bought in the past on closeout appear to have been sitting on shelves for quiet a while. Not sure if that affects the rubber similar to aging tires. Would not hesitate on most of the other stuff.

On Jalopnik!

Without usage, my clutch master or slave went bad, haven't worked on it so not sure which. You'll also want a trickle charger on the battery.

Do the screw in rounds have a mogul base or medium base?

I usually find out from a 1sale.com email or on other deal sites like fatwallet.

Sale again...

I'll continue to keep an eye out...

Again...

Seals are inexpensive but a bit of work to replace. I've done the pistons and seals once and if I had to do it again, I would probably go with rebuilt calipers which will save much time and effort. The good thing with either way is that you'll get out all the gunk that collects behind the pistons.

AutoExec Wheelmate Steering Wheel Attachable Work Surface TrayCheck out the reviews

A couple links:removing gauge cluster/installing Boost gauge in cluster Installing PLX DM-100 display in the cluster of a Galant VR-4

Old school HKS disassembled and mounted in instrument panel.

Back in the day some people were also mounting them in the turbine housing inlet.

Back on sale, $59.99 shipped...

OMP Velocita

These seem to go on sale fairly regularly now, will post when I see them again.

On sale again...

I've found the 2 channel ABS much more annoying than the 4WS. Get one side of the car onto an icy shoulder and you can say goodbye to braking.

For those who missed the deal last time or who want a few more.

When I replaced the radiator in my 94 Expo it looked like it could be a real close replacement for the Galant.

I recall the Koyo EvoIII radiator does not have a fitting for the GVR4 temp sensor and the overflow nipple was offset 90 degrees but otherwise fit the GVR4.

Here's a quick vid from the inside of my old pc.

I've had mine for about a week and so far I've only tried it in my mouth (and that's the only part of me where it's going). Beware the tip does get hot from the LEDs.

Not my auction but a decent deal so am posting for those looking for a cheap digital boroscope. $16.99 shipped from Hong Kong and took about a week for mine to get to NJ. Not HD but decent enough resolution to see detail from about .5 to 5 inches from tip. 4 LEDs in the tip with level...

On a side note, remember that the locks use only one side of the key so if you have a worn key that doesn't work you can try flipping it around and trying the other side. It's also possible to cut a new key that'll work for two cars but at that point the keys become directional.

Have you tried www.car-part.com ? Not sure what the part would be listed as but you can try searching for an entire rear suspension and call some of the places that show up.

I remember seeing that technique somewhere on these forums before. I even used it to pull the wheel bearings and hub out of a Murano with the castle nut removed but rotor still attached without having to use a puller.

I think they lasted for less than 24 hours at that price. Great thing was they were delivered the next morning here in NJ.

Not my auction but from buy.com/rakuten. Have 4 of these in the garage from the last sale about a year ago and am picking up some more. The casters are great for moving stuff around and the shelves can take a decent amount of weight. If you're tight on space you can stack these right next to...

Flip the whole thing around and you'll see it. There's a metal cylinder with paper/cloth vanes folded into it guiding the air out of the MAF. It's been a while but I recall you need to remove the screws holding the MAF to the back of the air canister to get it out.

138617325195767expires on May 19, 2013

Was wondering if anyone has tried these and how have they held up? Basically one time use and have to be cut to be removed but self adjusting.

Here's what I've been using: Snap-Off Quick release

Just a heads up, I have one and it works great but covered it with some split loom since it started cutting into my stock rubber intercooler hose. Normal engine vibrations will cause steel braided lines to work like a blunt saw against anything they're touching.

Just wanted to say thanks for making these. I remember getting mine from you on ebay many years ago.

I think it was somewhere in the 140k mile range when I stopped driving it. It has gas stabilizer in it and I start it about once or twice a year. Funny thing is I try to only bump the starter to get some oil flow first but it always want to start right up. I think it misses me.

I bought my 92 new from the dealer. Actually ordered it as soon as I heard they were making a 92 and picked it up in Fall of 91 when it was delivered. Driving it home from the dealership was the first time I've driven a stick but had no problems. Brand new the car was 100% reliable, wasn't...

If I hadn't bought the Mini just 4 months ago...

I found from owning the Mini that there's a company making insulating blankets from Aerogel and from there found that you can get samples of the raw material relatively cheaply. Might be worth experimenting with.Pyrogel XT

I recall there are two possible holes the torsion bars can be inserted into. One of them increases the the spring tension but you may need to rig up a special tool to disconnect and reconnect the bar. If it's stock it should still be using the lower tension.

So who's going to be the first to do the "long" shifter and parking brake mod?

CAPS has been replaced with MMC ASA.

When the alternator goes bad it will continue to run on the battery for a while. Depending on the battery capacity it can be 20 minutes or longer and if you stop before the voltage going to low the voltage will come up a little without a load but will drop quickly once you start the car.