Sold sorry

FYI - that listing is over 5 years old.

AMG Galant Steering Wheel. Tidy condition. Happy to answer any questions or provide additional photos on request.USD$150 + any fee'sLocated in New Zealand. International shipping available at cost. Check my seller feedback regarding the large number of parts I have sent around the world.

Sold pending payment

This is the Build Thread for 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR4 Evolution. Reply below.

ECMLink wont run in a dual board ECU. You need a single board EPROM type.

Photos below

FS: VR4 Evolution (Ev0 0) JDM ECU - Single Board EPROMGood upgrade over the dual board ECU from the pre-facelift cars. This ECU can be chipped.Board is in good condition. Appears one capacitor has previously been replaced.USD$180 on tracked postal service including paypal fees. Shipped...

Remove your speedo cluster. There is a screw on the back that lines up with the 180kph marking on the front of the speedo. From memory the screw has a wire running off it. Remove the screw and no more speed limiter.

I have a MD165808 ECU if you are interested. Its the facelift single board EPROM ECU from the Evolution/Evo 0 VR4. It is chippable obviously and I believe can work with the ECMLink system (though best to verify that).

Yes I use one though I didn't tune it myself. I had a local company complete that for me on the dyno.I've had a good experience with the Link. Cold start is perfect, idle is great, all-round driveability is great too. Let me know any specific questions and I'll do my best to help.

Got this sorted now thanks. The Oregon address is a company that on-forward to New Zealand for me. Saves the seller doing international shipping.

WTB: 1G DSM 5-Lug Rear SpindlesWill require shipping to 97203, OregonThanks!

But Evo 1/2/3 are a 7 bolt engine. Engine and gearbox from Evo 1/2/3 mount differently to that of a 6 bolt from a GVR4. Definitely possible to install the Evo 1/2/3 engine/gearbox in a GVR4 though.

sold

FS: JDM Single Board Eprom ECUGood working condition.US$260 shipped from New Zealand including paypal fees.

The coding between the single and dual board ECUs is vastly different. I dont believe you will be able to run ECMLink in your dual board ECU unfortunately.

I do but am NZ based. I dont know of anyone using ECMLink in NZ but believe a few do in Australia.

Also you dont need to go to ECMLink if you want just a basic setup. A chip can be written for the different AFM and injector. Obviously you would get the tune-ability and other features with ECM though.

Also MD150427 or MD153695 will also work, as long as they are the Eprom version of the ECU. A quick was to check is if there is a single "E" on the part number sticker rather than an "A" which is a non-Eprom version.

A better option than the Evo 0 AFM is one from an Lancer Evo 1/2/3 or 2G DSM. Combine this with 510cc (or larger injectors) and a chip and you would be away. You would need a chippable ECU such as the MD165808. An older dual board, such as the MD128618 are not able to be chipped for the larger...

Details as per ebay ad. Check my good guy feedback on here.Thanks Ryan.click

Yeah speedo is working fine.

Hi all, Has anyone come across a jammed odometer? I am at 139,999km and its stopped turning over. How complex/serviceable are the units if I was to open it up and have a look? I assume not too easy to prevent people from mucking around with the odometer.Thanks in advance.

I have the same turbo setup at Strokin4dr, also with the Kelford 272's but on a 2.0 litre. I'm running 98RON which is equivalent to pump 93 in the states. For the 2 litre it is quite laggy but does make good power. Approx 420hp at the wheels on 26psi.

If anyone is interested there are essentially the same as the Link G4 ECU. Made by the same company in my hometown.

Great guy to deal with. Item purchased was packaged really nice and sent out fast. Thanks again CutlassJim!

I have one, USD$40 shipped from NZ. Approx 2 week transit time.

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Heres a bit of a rundown on my Galant VR4 Evolution. Its a weekend toy and has less than 140,000km on it. Ive recently upgraded the throttle body and intercooler so need to have the car retuned. Power listed below is before the throttle body and intercooler upgrade. I have also recently ordered...

Yeah I guess it depends where you have the sensor in the exhaust system.

Mine goes through a rubber bung under the right hand front seat

Possibly another option for you here.

Nice work Ben. FYI - My JMF intake mangifold is very tight on the brake booster also. Ive used a 90 degree silicone bend to get it to work.

Yeah they do. Theyre on the website. www.racefab.co.nz

Racefab down our way do them I believe Ben. Worth a call.

click

Would this work? Seen this on the NZ trading website.

Quoting ghostinthevr4: This is a easy one, your turbine housing is to small.That .68ar housing is suffocating that turbo you need a .86 and higher.Not trying to argue with you here, but found this dyno chart of a 2G that also has a FP boltup 35R. His power, though not climbing, is static...

Well thats not what I wanted to hear!!

Yeah I will be able to. I have never downloaded the map so I will do it over the weekend and post it up.

Hi all, I had the first go at the dragstrip on the weekend and did pretty terribly. The Evo Zero 3.909 ratio gearing might be partly to blame, probably as much as my shitty driving, but another issue is my 7500 RPM limit. My tuner set it there as the car stopped making power about that point...

Quoting SleepinGVR4: Is your battery relocated to the truck?I had to run a huge ground to keep my relay from getting hot.Yes battery is in the boot. And the ground wire is still the factory wire. So I will run a bigger gauge wire direct from the battery to the pump to see if that helps...

Quoting iceman69510: Heat is from high current. Check all the wiring to the pump itself to make sure it is all good.Quoting swe_gvr4_1991: I suggest running the pump directly off the battery for testing. Ofcourse with the relay in place. This way you can eliminate alot of other potential...

OK thats a good idea on something I can try this weekend, thanks!

30 amp, which is what I think most people run.

Hi all, After running a direct feed from the battery to the fuel pump, via a relay, I am getting the relay running extremely hot after the car has been running. Has anyone come across this before? The relay is getting so hot it would be too hot to hold in your hand. All wiring joints are...