extra wear, no. The desired spring pressure should be calculated for additional weight. That should be all.

That looks like an exit hole not a stress fracture. If it’s still the same shape I suppose a weld can close it up. The clutch probably exploded. Get a better clutch.

Anyone know what rates came with the Vr4 specific coilovers?

On the back of the thermostat housing there’s a temp switch on the galant that’s not on the dsm. The part number is MB439918 but is there another bspt temp switch I can use?I got this part number from rock auto ACDelco® E1878 But can’t tell if it’s a sensor or a switch. Says sensor has...

You put the desired spring rates in based on the difference in weight. There is no zr4 in the usa. I’ve no idea what your talking about. If it’s awd it probably has the same rear subframes and upper rear strut mounts are pretty universal for most Mitsubishi cars. Coilovers are usually height...

I take it back. The 8k/6k is way too harsh on the street During all but the most aggressive driving. even after readjusting height and preload settings. I know the front of the fwd eclipse is lighter but with the 8k spring I just barely got it to the right droop height on passenger front side...

You never mentioned setting the biss screw or adjusting the idle switch.

So Here it is. The latest version.Going to cut them out of 1/8” steel on a plasma table.The "captive Bolt C" will be tapped with 4 M10 bolts.There is 10mm of caster adjustment and 40mm of camber adjustment.They are made to work with a bearing plate I had from a set of mookie...

Huh?

I just installed 180mm 8k/6k F/R springs on my fwd 1g with 5mm of preload. I didn’t measure droop percentage. I like that It handles great, but the comfort is not there. I want to add 6k Swift tender Springs to the front . I can’t find any example of someone doing this.with the 8k (450lbs)...

5v signal but controlled by a scale encoded in ecu.

Part throttle flutter and surge is gone. Builds boost strong faster and immediately had to turn my waste gate valve down significantly to maintain under 25# of boost at wot. Turbo also makes less noise in boost.

I would agree with bogus on the valve springs. The stock ones are usually all over the place if you bother to check them. I like my s1 cams a lot. So much in fact I bought another set for my other project. I’m using a small 16g with evo 3 hot side. It boosts super fast but I think a tdo5 with a...

Still running strong. Bilsteins ride nice. Turbo smart bov I installed is So much better then the modified stock one. Wish I knew how Many issues that thing was Causing. It’s bigGet though and I really need to swap out my stock rad fan now for proper clearance.Powder coated the evo 8 rims...

I have the same bottom end but Manley pistons . I’m using a s16g and GSc s1 cams. It boosts so fast. I’m not great with non Mitsubishi Turbo’s but anything that is bigger than a 20g should get you right around your goal. I’ve driven a 6266 car with bc 280 cams. It was really just good for drag...

A test run seems in order. I just put cheep coilovers on a fwd 1g I went with 8k 6k 180mm length springs. It’s really not that stiff. I swapped to those as the kit came with 12k 8k, but I didn’t try that setup before installing.The evo suspension has different motion ratios from my...

Are the bc camber plates available for sale separate?

So I need a shoulder bushing 15mm id 20mm od for the coilover spring top perch I bought but I can only find it in brass. Is that going to work or do I absolutely need steel? It’s a radial bearing upper spring seat for a 2.25” spring . I’m going to be using it with stock style upper strut mounts...

Paperwork doesn’t exist for the parts or work?

What springs are you using? If people swap with stock springs they cut a coil off the front usually. Did you try searching? There’s like a dozen threads on this.

Are you asking for a measurement? Many hear have done the swap including myself.

Breaks, strut bars? They don't share an engine, so no engine parts..

Buy or make adaptors.

Did you try comments on YouTube?

I drill and tap to 1/4" npt. I used over size barbs and a matching in line check valve.

Went with the full notch.Welded in 1/4" steel plates, bottom and sides.

Consensus seems trying to adjust the frame would be bad. Or just more effort then its worth? A c-notch would look best but I'm having trouble pulling the trigger because it will most likely be a huge pain in the ass to cut a circle out of a round pipe on my belly under the truck.

With the car warmed up and the timing ground set you could try adjusting the idle set screw in the throttle body. Look at the manual for further details.

43 views and only 1 vote.

I just made a real nice mandrel ss exhaust. When it came back from tig welding it contacts a crossmember it has to go over on my truck. There's really no way to get the pipe through at 3".

click

I don't know. I have a set from a VW/audi

Copper anti seize helps. If your using steal shim gaskets its usually pretty obvious where the exhaust is leaking. It will be black and covered with carbon, or perforated. Get your self a FP manifold. Better than the evo 3 and much easier to obtain.The small end of the cone washer faces the...

Pretty sure its hydraulic..

You can get 4 of the plug in no clip type for $12 on Amazon.

I've never had any luck with the stock size PVC system. Everyone upgrades the line size for a reason.In my case I drill and tap the valve covers with 1/4" npt fittings, drill out the inside of 14mm barb to 1/4"brass fittings and sweat in a piece of copper tube with some holes drills in it. I...

I've gone through Mevotech ball joints and tierods in less than 2 years too on my Subaru. How much should you expect from 12-15$ parts though.

there is a post some where showing one of the replacements with very poor construction. I don't remember which, but its worth a search before you order junk we have been warned about.

This is how everybody heads blew up back in the mid 90s after their first timing belt jobs, not reading the manual, no one adjusted the timing tension pulley. I just wonder what yours is set at right now.

They didn't know to set the balance shafts in the first place? If they don't take responsibility for this, I would certainly look for someone more qualified to do repairs in the future. Even then I'd probably still think twice about continued business with this mechanic.

I got a 2g

I have a s16g installed with a 14b actuator, ported evo3 turbine and o2 housings, then connected to a custom 3" down pipe. I'm able to boost to around 21-22psi without much spiking, however I can't get any over that with the MBC.I have no desire to throw out all those parts I ported and...

does it have the brackets and vac canister?

anyone use a second stock a/c pusher fan for primary cooling duty?

Yes, supposedly a reduction of up to 20% efficiency. That's why I wanted to see if anyone else had positive results before I pursued it.I have ac in the car so I'd be replacing the passenger side or both fans.Also I'm using a factory style DSM radiator currently.Getting the fans in that...

Has anyone swapped out the factory puller for a second pushing fan with good results? I could swap for a slim fan, but would rather just get it completely out of the way.Do most people ditch the high low resistor when swapping fans or keep it for ease of connection?

He's asking for stock, but with threads for the knob still.

How about one from a DSM? I think its shorter from the factory. Got one in my car, so I know it fits the same.

Wasn't me. Probably edger.

Black hood?