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Yes that is true and I just want it to push it 300-400 ft. I wonder what it takes to get the fluid to lock it up. If there was no fluid in the trans it would be no problem. The trans and transfer case have been rebuilt and have no fluid in them now. Is fluid is needed for the pushing I need to do?
Is there a way to push the car around, with engine not operating, without screwing something up such as viscous coupling? Remove driveshaft? Shop manual says only way to tow it is to put all tires on dolly's.
I can't find my bolts. Parts book say they are washer assembled 8x100. Are they hex head (non flange) with both flat and lock washers? I will probably use after market pieces instead of searching for Mits ones.
Yes all stock. I thought the one on the car when I bought it was original but when I started to refresh the engine I took the turbo to a diesel truck shop and they said it was no good. I bought a new Mits one they had which turned out to be a big 16g not the 14b. I discovered this through Justin...
For sure. I bought some M10 and they would not go through ex. man. Checked old ones and they were 9 x 1.25. I checked to see if a M10 would go in the original ex. man. and it was no go. I checked and all 3 of my turbos take 9mm so I decided not to enlarge ex. man holes and rethread the turbos.
What is the purpose of a stud and 3 bolts and not 4 bolts for attachment as shown in parts and assembly books? Also parts book '89-'92 says the bolts are 10 x 80 but mine are 9 x 80 was there a change somewhere along the line? What size are the popular turbos tapped for?
Finally got the fitting loose. No room for vise grips. Lots of heating and adding ATF/acetone solution for several days. Bought a Craftsman flare wrench set which I believe helped. I was using Harbor Freight one but Craftsman is a much better fit on the fitting even after the fitting was...
Yes that is it and not rusty at all that I can see. Sprayed with PB Blaster, heated cast stub with small butane burner, heated with MAP to about 700*F and put ice cube on hex. Flare wrench is rounding the nut. I have been searching and saw if you heat one part and spray penetrating oil, or...
I have tried everything to remove return line from water inlet in order to remove turbo. Is this a common problem? Any suggestions on why the steel fitting will not unscrew? I am thinking I will have to cut it off and replace both pieces.
How about an update on what bolt holes or pieces to attach a chain to engine for install. The bracket at ex manifold for that purpose is not on the engine. So where do you attach at front and back of engine that will not strip?
How do you separate the wire terminal from the plastic connector? I have tried for 3 days to figure it out. It seems like all the connectors are about the same but the ones I am working on are the ones around the thermostat housing. When I started I thought all female connectors had a tang on...
My balance shafts have been removed. I now have prothane mount for front engine and the other are rubber. I thought this might minimize the shaking. My trans mount is still usable so I kept it. Polly rear roll came with Prothane kit but I opted for the rubber swap with RockAuto mount they...
What are your thoughts on installing engine then trans vs attaching trans to engine and installing both together? Seems like putting the trans up and getting input through clutch is a hard, heavy chore. Is it easy enough to do both together with all the harness' and controls hanging down?
For my rear roll stopper I removed the original bushing, removed the bushing from RockAuto (not for VR4) mount they sent and had new one pressed in - $60- and they said it was very hard getting it pressed in.
I still need coupling bolts for front and rear roll stoppers to arms from block.
No pictures. Unless you have a parts book.
1st one goes through rear stopper rubber bushing on body and connects to arm that goes to block.
2nd one goes through front stopper rubber bushing on body and connects to arm that goes to block.
3rd ones hold front mounting bracket onto block. The...
Rear roll stopper coupler bolt M10 x 110 tapered cone end
Front roll stopper coupler bolt M10 x 75 flange and locking flange nut
Front engine mount bolts at firewall side of the mount M10 x 73 washer assembled - two of these.I may cut down some new 75mm ones for the front mount. I can not...
Yes the classic cast FP is what is on it. Very nice piece.
The ATP manifold seems nice but is rougher inside the runners than the original. Perhaps slightly larger ports in vertical dimension.
Anybody else have some thoughts on the matter? All very interesting comments.