I've bled the system several times per TRE's method as well as bench bleed the MC and slave, then bled again per TRE. I also have a speed bleeder on the slave.I'll give your slave method a shot. Mechanically all my other stuff, which is new, pass the tests.

Quoting turbowop: Don't skip leg day at the gym.Bro, do you even lift?

Quoting tektic: Quote: Today I welded a nut in front of the piece that threads into the MC rod to give me a little more adjustment roomI considered this too. I ended up cutting and welding my pedal for the 4th and 5th time. I think I have it where it needs to be now. If the pin for the...

The MC is not an aftermarket.I haven't checked the actual bore size on the slave.

Red piston

After replacing everything in the entire clutch system, I was still having disengagement issues. The best I could manage was maybe an inch off the floor before I ran out of MC adjustment. Today I welded a nut in front of the piece that threads into the MC rod to give me a little more adjustment...

yeah, 50 of them.

SOLDThese were on my 1g when I bought it. I didn't like the ride quality so I took them off. They've been sitting in my garage for a couple years now. They have a little surface rust, dirt and grime but should clean up nice.250 obo plus shipping and paypal fees.

Everything is the same from base models to the vr4.

I've never seen a prothane mount do that.

Nice find. I'd love to have that work space.

Quoting G: Stant is good, lot's of experience with them on different platforms. The no name duralast's are the ones you have to watch out for.I just pulled a sh*t Stant out of my DSM that was rated for 180* but ran more like 220*. Switched it out with Mitsu part and fixed. The opening is...

Quoting G: I was just going to say go with an oe thermo or a stant. Nothing else.I wouldn't even go Stant.FWIW, The OEM 180* tstat part number is MD997607.

Behind the side skirts, bottom of quarter panels and dog legs.

+1, you can try routing or removing the PCV like this.What color is the smoke?